In award-winning Philadelphia beer writer Don Russell’s Joe Sixpack column Friday, he argues persuasively that the term “beer sommelier” is oxymoronic because the word “sommelier” by definition refers specifically to wine. He’s right about that, of course. Here’s the dictionary definition:
a waiter, as in a club or restaurant, who is in charge of wines.
“sommelier.” Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.0.1). Based on the Random House Unabridged Dictionary, © Random House, Inc. 2006.
Other dictionaries also mention wine specifically in their definitions, too. It’s clear the word is clumsy at best. It’s only usefulness stems from being a word most people already understand, at least in wine terms.
But Russell also argues that we should not borrow from the wine industry’s terms, which he describes as “the winofication of beer.” I heartily agree with that sentiment. It seems a shame that wine analogies are often so effective and it’s for that reason I’m guilty of using them, too. But we should be able to describe beer using its own vocabulary.
Don’s suggestion to replace beer sommelier with the term Cellarman, which has a rich history in the brewing world. I’m not quite convinced that’s the right word, but he’s definitely on to something and like the direction he’s taking the debate.