G. Heilman’s “Old Style Beer” used to be a very popular regional brand since its introduction in 1902. It was first advertised as being “‘fully kraeusened’ and made with pure artesian well water from ‘God’s country,’ meaning western Wisconsin.” That’s because the G. Heilman Brewery was located in La Crosse, Wisconsin.
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Today the brewery is known as the City Brewing, having been purchased by new owners after Heilman went out of business in 1999. Stroh’s originally bought the Heilman brands, but when three years later they likewise folded their tent, Pabst Brewing scooped them up. Miller’s been contract brewing Old Style for sale in Great Lakes area since that time, but using the changed brewing process implemented by Stroh’s. Stroh’s stopped kraeusening the beer and Miller’s continued brewing it for Pabst unkraeusened.
Pabst announced last week that they would begin kraeusening it again and marketing it as “authentically kraeusened.” They’re also planning on raising the price and trying to position it as a a more premium brand. That may be a tough sell, as it’s been a bargain brand for a long time. And as for selling it as being kraeusened, that also seems like a concept destined to fall flat with consumers. Kraeusening, of course, is hardly unique or magical, but a centuries-old German brewing technique. Many breweries still use the process today, including a large number in the U.S. Here’s one explanation of it, from The Brewer’s Handbook by Ted Goldammer:
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Pabst brand manager Keith Hill is spinning it another way. “That process more thoroughly ferments beer to give it additional flavor, along with a smoother finish.” Pabst is also claiming that this “return to its roots will appeal to 20-somethings who would rather drink ‘a high-quality, local beer’ than a beer ‘from one of the big brewers.'” But the beer, of course, will continue to be contract brewed by MillerCoors so I’m not sure I understand the distinction he’s making or how it will be a marketing advantage for Old Style. I have nothing against contract brewing per se, but I’m not sure I understand how simply changing the brewing process makes it a “local beer?”
This new push follows re-launches of Primo and Schlitz by Pabst, hoping to duplicate their success with Pabst as a retro-hip brand. Will it work? You can’t underestimate the power of advertising to convince people of virtually anything, so perhaps it will. Who knows? Maybe Old Style will end up owing the term “Kraeusening.” Stranger things have happened.
I’m skeptical, though I suppose anything is possible. For the most part, these old brands that Pabst sells are just generic beers with classic labels.
Odd that so much attention is given to things like Primo, Schlitz, and Old Style …admittedly decent beers in their day, but part of the Americaan Lager “sameness”…while the real jewel in their collection of their legacy brands and the only one that was a genuinely distinctive brew lies neglectedas a sad, sad shadow of its glory days. Of course I’m referring to Ballantine Ale, which was once a beer with an explosion of hop aroma, flavor, and BALLS. It was a unique American beer at a time when most American beers were virtually indistinguishable from one another. Ballantine Ale was a gem that would hold its own today, if only it were made to its original formula (which it clearly has NOT been for at least 20 years)
Come on, Pabst/Miler/Coors…do your homework and bring THAT classic brand back to where it belongs. You’re really missing the boat.
I am generally speaking a fan of the Pabst umbrella of brands. But this seems like a poor direction to focus on in my opinion. I am pretty happy with the new Schlitz, but I am still dubious it can sell long term at $6 / 6-pack. I can virtually guarantee that Old Style could not. And your dead on with your questioning the ‘local beer’ marketing strategy.. odd to say the least.
Having grown up in northern Illinois, there’s one thing I learned about Old Style beer. There is nothing better for making a batch of beer brats. I boil my brats in a couple of cans of Old Style, along with a diced onion for 20 minutes before finishing them on the grill. The results are absolutely delicious. I’ve tried making beer brats with many other brands of beer, and nothing else works as well. I’d also rather drink Old Style than Miller or Bud any day.