In award-winning Philadelphia beer writer Don Russell’s Joe Sixpack column Friday, he argues persuasively that the term “beer sommelier” is oxymoronic because the word “sommelier” by definition refers specifically to wine. He’s right about that, of course. Here’s the dictionary definition:
a waiter, as in a club or restaurant, who is in charge of wines.
“sommelier.” Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.0.1). Based on the Random House Unabridged Dictionary, © Random House, Inc. 2006.
Other dictionaries also mention wine specifically in their definitions, too. It’s clear the word is clumsy at best. It’s only usefulness stems from being a word most people already understand, at least in wine terms.
But Russell also argues that we should not borrow from the wine industry’s terms, which he describes as “the winofication of beer.” I heartily agree with that sentiment. It seems a shame that wine analogies are often so effective and it’s for that reason I’m guilty of using them, too. But we should be able to describe beer using its own vocabulary.
Don’s suggestion to replace beer sommelier with the term Cellarman, which has a rich history in the brewing world. I’m not quite convinced that’s the right word, but he’s definitely on to something and like the direction he’s taking the debate.
If “sommelier” is the wrong word because it refers specifically to something other than a “beer expert advisor”, I’m confused as to how “cellarman” is any better?
To me, this refers to a different job again, that of a (hopefully) skilled worker who manages the stocking, quality & dispense of the beer in a pub; rather than someone at a fairly up-scale restaurant who advises diners on beer & food pairing. (I’m yet to be convinced how many restaurants really need this role, though – when a well-written beer-list & switched-on management & waiting/barstaff could do the job just as well?).
I found it odd too that in Don’s piece he refers to the role of cellarman in the UK in the past tense! Over 5,000 pubs in the UK were voted into the 2007 CAMRA GoodBeerGuide, plus a load more that still sell real ale! (now it may be that most have a publican / landlord/lady / manager who doubles as the cellar staff, but that’s still a vital part of their job).
All that said I agree that sommelier isn’t the right word (despite there being a few French-speaking Belgians that do make decent beer!) it just sounds distancing, snobbish, etc, all things that beer, no matter how complex or revered should IMO never be.
A question – do the Belgies have a term (Flemish or French) for this role?
Ale Consumption Engineer (ACE)?
This discussion has inspired the haiku of the day at Beer Haiku Daily.
Beermaster?