Today is the birthday of Lawrence Steese (April 20, 1912-April 19, 1991). Steese is part of the more recent lore of Anchor Brewing. Originally from Mill Valley, in Marin County, he bought Anchor in 1960 when Joe Allen was retiring, though Allen stayed around to teach him how to make Steam Beer. Fifty-one percent of the brewery was then bought by Fritz Maytag, who eventually bought out Steese and assumed full control.
Steese was from Mill Valley, and in the July 14, 1962 edition of the Daily Independent Journal, an article used the headline How a Marinite Rescued Steam Beer, which included the following in its coverage.
SOME THREE years ago the requiem for steam beer was being played, and the sad demise of a California tradition was being mourned. At that time Joe Allen, owner of Anchor Brewery, announced his retirement. There was no one skilled in the exacting art of steam beer brewing to take his place, and no one, it seemed, who cared to take the time and trouble to learn from the old master. No one, that is, until Lawrence Steese decided he’d like to try. Joe Allen was more than willing to teach. And since his official “retirement” these three years past, Allen has spent his days at the brewery as professor of steam beer brewing. The making of steam beer is not like the brewing of other beers. Steam beer is naturally carbonated; neither additives nor preservatives become it. “The Sincere Beer,” it is called by some. IT IS TRULY a “health food,” its devotees assert, containing more malt and hops than other beers, and without corn or rice to lighten it.
And this account of Fritz Maytag buying Anchor from Steese is on their website:
By 1965, as America slaked its thirst with lighter, mass-produced, heavily marketed beers, the Old Spaghetti Factory had become one of Anchor’s last remaining accounts. Fred—ever loyal—even loaned the brewery money to help keep San Francisco’s beer afloat. In July 1965, he heard the news that Anchor—then known as the Steam Beer Brewing Company—was about to shut down.
Fred turned to a customer and friend who was living in the City by the Bay, twenty-seven-year-old Fritz Maytag—great-grandson of the founder of a well-known appliance company in Newton, Iowa. Fred knew that if Maytag paid a visit to the brewery, he might just fall in love with it. Sure enough, “it was as if,” Fritz reminisced, “someone said, ‘That’s the last cable car and it’s going out of business tomorrow unless you put up a few thousand dollars.’”
On August 2, Fritz Maytag shook hands with owner/brewmaster Lawrence Steese, purchasing 51% of the brewery (and its debt) and rescuing our brewery from imminent oblivion. Final papers were filed September 24. San Francisco’s iconic beer and “medieval brewery”—as Fritz fondly calls it—were saved!
Gary Gillman says
That’s a good one Jay. He is a key link in the story of the craft beer revival, but almost no one knows his name or any bio details.
I assume he passed on, but when, did he live long enough to see the success of small-scale brewing, if so what did he think of it…?
Fritz Maytag would know, why don’t you ask him, he’s just down the road from you more or less? There are so many unsung heroes in this story, Lawrence Steese deserves to be remembered.
Perhaps Ken Grossman knew him too, or New Albion’s founder.
Gary
Laura Roehrick says
I grew up with his daughters, Helena and Laurie Steese. I forwarded this to them, maybe they will
Chime in and answer these questions . I went to the brewery once with them and have vague memories of the barrels! I believed he passed away 20 years or more ago. Lived in Costa Rica for many years and I think died in a car accident.
Miles Jordan says
Helluva guy! In 1959-60 my friends & I used to frequent the brewery & score kegs of Porter for $ 15. A buck a gallon!! Such a deal. Damned fine beer, too. Helped us thru a lot of parties at Olive St. in SF back then. As the keg was being rolled out to our car we’d try to sample as much beer as we could. Ethelwin Steese once admonished me as I was blowing the foam off my pint by saying, “Foam is the essence of beer.” How right she was! Here’s to Larry & Ethelwin Steese
Gary Gillman says
Thanks for that Miles. I don’t think it was known until now that Anchor had made a porter before Fritz Maytag introduced one in the mid-70s.
There was, though, a dark version of Steam Beer, maybe it was that? But you called it a porter, was it advertised that way?
Do you feel Anchor Steam itself has changed from then? Or is it the same?
What happened to the Steeses? Did they live long enough to see the craft beer renewal?
Gary
Megen says
Lawrence Steese was my dad. As Laura said, he (and my brother and I) moved to Costa Rica in 1975. I don’t think it really took off until the mid to late 90s, and he died in 1991 in a car accident. If he was aware of their success, he never talked about it. I have fond memories of the original brewery, too.
Gary Gillman says
And Mr. B. those casks appear charred on the interior – the original bourbon barrel ale? If not char, it was brewer’s pitch. I incline to the latter but who knows…
All best.
Gary