Brookston Beer Bulletin

Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Beer Birthday: Ben Spencer

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Today is Ben Spencer’s 51st birthday. Ben was the head brewer at Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery, but due to their Chapter 11 bankruptcy was making ends meet as an independent contractor. For a short time, Ben was then the Director of Operations and Brewmaster at Strike Brewing in San Jose, but more recently moved to Richmond, Virginia where he was Director of Operations and Brewmaster for Dogtown Brewing for a time, before returning to consulting work. Ben grew up in Virginia, and spent some time brewing in Colorado — and even worked for Greenpeace — before coming to the Bay Area in 2004. That’s when he left Boulder for San Francisco to make beer at Magnolia. Ben’s a terrific brewer and a great person, too, and I’m sorry the Bay Area lost him. Join me in wishing Ben a very happy birthday.

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Ben with Jesse Houck, when he was still brewing with 21st Amendment during Brews By the Bay 2008.
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A sextet from San Francisco at GABF in 2008. From left: Adrienne McMullen, with 21st Amendment, Ben, Sean Paxton, the homebrew chef, Ben’s wife Kelly, Shaun O’Sullivan, from 21st Amendment, and Dave.
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A satisfied Ben with Dave McClean after a vertical tasting of Old Thunderpussy in 2009.
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Ben with Dave Hopwood (Stone) and Dave McClean (Magnolia) at the 22nd Celebrator Anniversary Party in 2010.
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After Bruce Paton’s cheese and beer dinner in 2008. From left, Arne Johnson (Marin Brewing), Aron Derosey (Beach Chalet), Bruce Paton, Sheana Davis, Ben, Ron from 21A, Brenden Dobbel (Thirsty Bear) and Rich Higgins (Gordon Biersch).
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Ben in the basement brewery at the end of brewing a mild a few years ago.

Beer Birthday: Andy French

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Today would have been the 57th birthday of Andy French, former brewmaster at Southern Pacific Brewing in San Francisco, one of the new wave of breweries that opened in the city a few years ago, but unfortunately he past away in late summer 2023. . I first met Andy when he brewed at Speakeasy, and after that would see him from time to time at Zeitgeist, though he first started brewing back East in the DC area. When his roommate Chris Lawrence, who also worked for Speakeasy once upon a time, decided to open his own brewery, he tapped Andy to work the mash paddles, and things had been going great since they opened a few years ago, though I’d heard Andy was now back doing shifts at Zeitgeist before learning of his untimely passing. Join me in raising a toast to Andy.

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Andy at his brewhouse in 2012.
The back bar at Rio Nido Roadhouse was recently named Frenchy’s in his honor with a new sign and plenty of friends in attendance to christen it. [Thanks to Mario Rubio for the photo.]

Beer Birthday: Brian Yaeger

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Today is the 51st birthday of fellow beer writer Brian Yaeger, author of Red, White & Brew and Oregon Breweries. Brian also writes online at his Red, White & Brew Beer Odyssey blog. A couple of years ago Brian and his lovely bride Kimberly lived in Portland, Oregon (having moved from San Francisco), but then moved to Amsterdam, then moved back to Portland, but more recently relocated once more, this time to Santa Barbara, California, and even more recently has moved back to Oregon, this time to Bend. Join me in wishing Brian a very happy birthday.

Me with Eric Rose, founder and former owner of Hollister Brewing, and Brian when I met him there for a lunch during a family vacation to Santa Barbara in 2017.

Brian with Brian Lenzo, owner of Blue Palms Brewhouse, me and Meg Gill at the Speakeasy Brewery during SF Beer Week in 2010.
Craig Cauwels with Brian, the Beer Chef Bruce Paton and me at a Schooner’s beer dinner at Cathedral Hotel in 2008.
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Brian and a sour Jeff Alworth [purloined from Facebook].
Jay, Chris the Beer Scholar, Shap, Jay, me, Bryan, Damian before founding Almanac.

Brian Yaeger (right) after receiving an award from Jay Brooks of the North American Guild of Beer Writers. (Photo by Gail Ann Williams)

Beer Birthday: Forest Gray

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Today is the 58th birthday of Forest Gray, co-founder and former president of Speakeasy Ales and Lagers in San Francisco. I first met Forest when Speakeasy first bottled their beer when I was the beer buyer at BevMo. For the last many years, his brewery has made some terrific beers, especially their Big Daddy I.P.A., although since 2017, the brewery has a new owner and I’m not sure how Forest is spending his time these days. Join me in wishing Forest a very happy birthday.

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Forest with Brian Lenzo, from Blue Palms in L.A., and Meg Gill, now “on the winning team” with Golden Road, at a Speakeasy Anniversary event several years ago.


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The Speakeasy crew at the start of SF Beer Week in 2013. That’s Forest with the glowing hat. [Photo purloined from Facebook.]

Beer Birthday: Shaun O’Sullivan

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Today is 21st Amendment brewer and co-owner Shaun O’Sullivan’s 62nd birthday. Shaun is a good friend and one my favorite people in the industry. He’s a tireless champion for craft beer and very supportive of other brewers, such as with his fun collaboration projects. He’s one of the founders and organizers of SF Beer Week and through his brewpub puts on many special and educational events all year, not to mention his extensive travel schedule. His new production brewery in San Leandro recently opened, and it appears to be going great. Plus, he’s one of the few people brave enough to read the rough draft of my book, Under the Table, and even claim to like it. Now that’s a friend. I just can’t say enough good things about Sully, so I’ll stop here. Join me in wishing Shaun a very Happy Birthday.

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Shaun O’Sullivan and business partner Nico Freccia in the front of their brewpub.
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Shaun and me outside the Bistro after judging the Double IPA Festival.
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Shaun O’Sullivan with Don Barkley of Napa Smith Brewing on the first day of SF Beer Week.
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Nico with Dave Keene and Shaun at a can party at the Toronado.
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Nico and Shaun in lederhosen during 21st Amendment’s Beer Bus School.
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At the Brew Free! or Dine beer dinner at 21st Amendment Brewpub during SF Beer Week a few years ago with Garrett Oliver, Shaun and Gordon Schuck from Funkwerks.
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But this by far my favorite, it’s hard to understand how he could have given up all that to start a brewery.

Beer Birthday: Brian Stechschulte

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Today is also the birthday of Brian Stechschulte, former executive director of the San Francisco Brewers Guild, who then worked for Speakeasy Ales & Lagers as their Public Relations & Media Director for a time, and since late 2017 had been the Director of Marketing for Drake’s Brewing, although most recently decided to step back from working, and is living in Indianapolis, Indiana. I’m just guessing at Brian’s age, but by my reckoning he’s got to be about 45 this year. In addition to his regular work, he also wrote online at All Over Beer and Bygone Beer. Brian wa a terrific ambassador for beer and a great addition to the industry, though I think we may have lost him, at least temporarily. I think of him as a kindred spirit. Please join me in wishing Brian a very happy birthday.

Brian and me with former San Francisco mayor, the late Ed Lee at the SF Beer Week opening gala a few years ago.
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Brian’s profile picture, used without permission but begged for here in the hopes that in the spirit of its use will be granted magnanimously.
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Bob Brewer, from Anchor Brewing, with Brian at GABF a couple of years ago.
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Brian after grad school graduation in 2003. Notice the can of beer he’s drinking. [Note: The first and last photos purloined from Brian’s Facebook friends, blame them.]

Historic Beer Birthday: Jacob Adams

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Today is the birthday of Jacob Adams (May 13, 1837-July 21, 1909). Born Jacob Adami, in Germany, he moved with his family to San Francisco in 1860. He bought the San Francisco Brewery in 1874, renaming it the Broadway Brewery.

Here’s a short biography from Find a Grave:

Johanas Adami [Adams] and family emigrated from Germany in 1860 to San Francisco and formed a brewery partnership. Johanas’ son, Jacob Adams, formally established the Broadway Brewery at 637 Broadway and Stockton St. in 1874. The brewery burned down in 1885, but was rebuilt at a new location on the corner of Treat Ave. & 19th St. Jacob died in 1909 and his son George C. Adams became president of the brewery. In 1916 another son, William F. Adams, became one of the directors of the newly formed California Brewing Association. During Prohibition William was working at Acme’s Fulton plant, (dba) the Cereal Products Refining Corporation, with JP Rettenmayer and Karl Schuster. In the 30’s & 40’s William held the position of Secretary for Acme Breweries in both SF and LA. He and his brother Edward J. Adams were Acme shareholders and also ran Acme’s Oakland distribution depot.

This account is from Bill Yenne’s “San Francisco Beer: A History of Brewing by the Bay:”

From Page 23.
From Page 41.

This story about a potential crime by one of the brewery employees, a family member no less, is from the San Francisco Call on February 5, 1898.

Brewery Gems also has a more thorough history of both Jacob Adams and the Broadway Brewery in San Francisco from 1862 to 1917, when it closed.

Beer Birthday: Bruce Paton

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Today is the Beer Chef, Bruce Paton’s 70th birthday — The Big 7-O. Bruce has been doing fantastic dinners pairing great beer and gourmet food for over twenty years in the Bay Area starting at Barclay’s Restaurant and Pub in Oakland and continuing at the Clift and Cathedral Hill Hotels in San Francisco. He’s has been doing events and consulting at various food and beverage operations since the hotel closed in 2009, so look for more of his beer dinners in the coming months. I’ve been to many, many of Bruce’s food events and they’re all spectacularly top notch. He did around eight each year. More recently, he’s cooking at Fermentation Labs in San Francisco. Raise a toast and stuff your face in wishing Bruce a very happy birthday.

My hands down favorite photo of Bruce, which I took for the Chef’s Association of the Pacific Coast newsletter. I don’t think this is the one they used, but, by far, as I think it captures Bruce’s spirit and his great love and passion for what he does with his cooking and beer.

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Giving a cooking demonstration with Garret Oliver, brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery and author of The Brewmaster’s Table at the 2005 GABF.

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Bruce with Russian River co-owner Natalle Cilurzo.

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Me and Bruce New Year’s Day a few years ago at Barclay’s.

Beer Birthday: Tom Riley

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Today is the 61st birthday of Tom Riley, who was the brewmaster at Anchor Brewing. Tom grew up in the Potrero Hill area of San Francisco, not to far from the brewery he began working at in 1983. He started on the packaging line, then moved on to being a tour guide and later became an assistant brewer. A couple of years ago he was named brewmaster, only the third one at Anchor since the 1970s (not including Fritz Maytag). I’ve run into Tom over the years at events at Anchor events, but got to know him much better last year working on a couple of pieces for Flagship February for which we spent considerable time talking on the phone, and he’s a terrific person. More recently, he’s retired and I’m not sure how he’s spending his time these days. Join me in wishing Tom a very happy birthday.

A recent publicity shot of Tom in the Anchor brewery.
Tom at the brewery quite a few years ago.

Historic Beer Birthday: Ernst F. Baruth

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Today is the birthday of Ernst F. Baruth (April 28, 1842-February 1906). While what would become Anchor Brewing began during the California Gold Rush when Gottlieb Brekle arrived from Germany and began brewing in San Francisco at what he called the Golden City Brewery, it didn’t become known as Anchor Brewing until 1896, when “Ernst F. Baruth and his son-in-law, Otto Schinkel, Jr., bought the old brewery on Pacific Avenue and named it Anchor. The brewery burned down in the fires that followed the 1906 earthquake, but was rebuilt at a different location in 1907.” Baruth had passed away the same year as the earthquake, shortly before it.

I did discover that he was a president of the Norddeutscher Verein (or North German Association) in 1886 as noted in this portrait from a book celebrating the organization’s 25th anniversary, or Silver Anniversary 1874-1899.

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According to Anchor Brewery’s website:

[In 1896] German brewer Ernst Frederick Baruth and his son-in-law, Otto Schinkel, Jr., bought the old brewery on Pacific (the first of six Anchor locations around the City over the years) and named it Anchor. No one knows why Baruth and Schinkel chose the name Anchor, except, perhaps, for its indirect but powerful allusion to the booming Port of San Francisco.

Surprisingly, there isn’t much biographical information about Baruth. He was born somewhere in Germany, and arrived in New York City on August 13, 1875, on a ship named the “SS Neckar” that departed from Bremen, Germany and then sailed to Southampton, England, before heading west to America.

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The Anchor Brewery in the early 1900s.

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