Brookston Beer Bulletin

Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Protecting Minors by Separating Families

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Neo-Prohibitionists often get help from the authorities, who themselves are increasingly likely to be neo-prohibitionists. Because they’ve learned that one of the most effective ways to control others and further their agenda is to seek office in the various state alcohol control agencies. Despite taking an oath to serve the public good, they more often alter policy to do just the opposite. Witness Oregon’s “minor posting rules,” which led to seeing the following sight at this past weekend’s Oregon Brewers Festival (OBF).

That’s right, that’s not a joke, you’re seeing it correctly. It is not a trick or optical illusion. Here’s a close up of the sticker:

Parents also had to wear a similar sticker making a similar pledge to remove their minor child by 7:00 p.m. So what’s the reason for these draconian measures? According to Ken Palke, Media Relations Liaison for the Oregon Liquor Control Commission (OLCC), it has to do with Oregon’s minor posting rules, where “minors are not allowed into an environment where drinking is the predominant activity. The OLCC feels that after 7, the Portland event is geared much more toward drinking, without much eating.

Here’s the OLCC regulation stating the minor posting rule’s purpose:

845-006-0340 Minor Postings
(1) Purpose. The Commission is charged with regulating the sale of alcohol in a manner which protects the safety and welfare of the citizens, and ensures that alcohol is used legally. As a policy making body, the Commission has a responsibility to send a clear message to the community and its youth that drinking alcohol is an adult activity, and that drinking environments are for adults. At the same time, the Commission recognizes the need to maximize opportunities for minors to eat at licensed premises while minimizing their exposure to drinking environments.

According to the OLCC’s “licensing people, the OLCC did not require that stickers of any kind be put onto minors during the beer festival.” But as Art Larrance, Director of the OBF, points out, the OLCC tacitly approved it by signing off on the procedure the festival used in the voluminous application process the OBF is required to go through in order to put on the festival. “The OLCC did not want any minors at the festival,” Larrance told me, and the procedure we came up with was to placate their concerns and comply with the minor posting rules. They also suggested prohibiting minors ages 14-20 entirely and the arguments Larrance made fell on deaf ears. According to him, he tried to explain how such rules would split family participation and keep many people from being able to attend and the OLCC “just sat there and didn’t say anything.”

Such behavior, I think, is consistent with the intractable and inflexible position that the neo-prohibitionist movements have taken in their efforts to remove alcohol from society. The OLCC’s notion that “drinking alcohol is an adult activity” and the so-called clear message they’re sending is that children should not be present during adult activities. Taken to its extreme, or its logical conclusion depending on your point of view, this will ultimately split society into two: one society which is adults only and one which is kid-friendly with no adult activities whatsoever, lest our youth be corrupted. And there it is again, the ubiquitous “it’s for the children” argument that invariably is used by neo-prohibitionist groups to push their agenda.

If parents wish to bring their children with them to a beer festival, what business is that of the state? Restricting parental authority in this method sends not the message they intend, but that parents cannot be trusted with their own children’s welfare and upbringing. How dare the OLCC presume to tell anyone how to raise their children. That is not their responsibility as they claim, but is the duty and responsibility of each parent. All they’ve done is wrested control from parents and used it to further the goal of prohibition. They’ve certainly perverted the idea of protecting society from itself.

It seems quite obvious to me that if you want to raise children who will become responsible adults, capable of reasonably enjoying what the OLCC calls “adult activities,” they need to witness the example of their parents and other adults doing just that. Keeping minors from ever seeing adults drinking will only serve to make it more of a taboo — thus making abuse more attractive as prohibited activities are always more desirable — and give kids no lessons to learn on “how” drinking responsibly is accomplished. Underage drinking — and especially abuse — is, of course, much less common in nations where alcohol is seamlessly part of the society and in which children are included in all aspects of the adult world. England’s pub culture has, for example, created family gathering spots for entire neighborhoods without managing to corrupt its youth. In fact, almost everywhere alcohol is not restricted but embraced as a part of everyday life, society seems healthier as a result. The frat party alcohol abuses are peculiarly restricted to the U.S., where drinking is such a ridiculous taboo that kids who lack any positive examples of alcohol act irresponsibly in the vacuum of information created by neo-prohibitionist proselytizing.

Ironically, the OLCC’s director, Teresa L. Kaiser, resigned in May of this year after being arrested “on suspicion of driving under the influence and reckless driving.” Following a two-car crash on the west end of Portland’s Sellwood Bridge, “police said a breath test showed her blood-alcohol level was 0.16, twice the legal limit for adults.” She probably never attended a beer festival with her parents to learn how to enjoy alcohol responsibly. But at least she’s gotten that infant alcoholism epidemic under control.

This problem sadly is not, of course, unique to Oregon. Neo-prohibitionists in communites all across America are trying to remove alcohol from public events such as county fairs, outdoor concerts and festivals of all kinds. When such puritanical ideas — like Oregon’s keeping minors away from almost any event involving alcohol — work their way into our laws, it’s the very children such laws claim to protect along with society as a whole that are being harmed. And we should do everything in our power to oppose them. I, for one, will continue to take my kids, Porter and Alice, to as many beer festivals as possible.

Latrobe Brewery Workers Approve New Contract

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Union employees of the Latrobe Brewery voted 113-9 yesterday to approve a new -two-year contract with City Brewery of La Crosse, Wisconsin. It was undoubtedly not exactly a level playing field, but the Latrobe brewery workers agreed to pay cuts and reduced vacation time in an effort to save their jobs.

A few months ago when City Brewery was negotiating to purchase the Coors brewing facility in Memphis, Tennessee, Teamsters rejected City’s contract offer expecting them to make a counter-offer. Instead City Brewery walked away from the deal. That fact had to be on the mind of brewery workers when it came time to vote yesterday.

Union officials were quoted as saying that the concessions were relatively minor and not beyond expectations. Of course, City Brewery still has to close the deal with InBev.

Union official George Sharkey indicated that City Brewery is planning a 24-ounce canning line for the Latrobe brewery. Rumors also are floating around about the possibility of Latrobe starting up a new proprietary brand. The plant will close shortly, on July 31, with only a “skeleton crew” remaining to keep the refrigeration units in working order. No word yet on when the brewery might re-open full-time again.

From the Glass-Lined Tanks of Old … St. Louis?

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Now that Anheuser-Busch will be brewing Rolling Rock at their facility in Newark, New Jersey, I expected they’d have to change some of the packaging. But in a press release from last Friday, A-B announced their intention to not change almost anything. I suppose that’s not too much of a surprise since their stated goal is to “produce the same beer and maintain its traditional taste,” according to Doug Muhleman, chief brewmaster of Anheuser-Busch.

Andy Goeler, vice president, Import, Craft and Specialty Group, Anheuser- Busch, Inc. said “[o]ur priority is to honor the Rolling Rock brand and its traditions. One way we’re doing this is through our packaging. The Rolling Rock pledge is an historic part of this brand, along with the mysterious ’33’ and the label’s other features. We wanted to take all steps possible to honor this tradition, so we plan to quote the pledge on the label in a tribute to this rich, proud history.”

Next month, when the beer will begin being brewed in New Jersey, the label will continue to read:

“From the glass-lined tanks of old Latrobe,
we tender this premium beer for your enjoyment,
as a tribute to your good taste.
It comes from the mountain springs to you.”

Other items printed on the bottle, including the steeplechase, horse and mysterious “33” will also remain unchanged.

Now is it just me or won’t it be pretty hard to claim that the beer is “from the glass-lined tanks of old Latrobe” when it’s brewed in Newark? Does that kind of announced deception spun as “honoring tradition” bother anyone else? It’s one thing to quietly keep the label intact, but to shout that you’re paying “tribute to this rich, proud history” while not, in fact, doing so seems arrogant in the extreme to me. If A-B had really cared about the tradition of this beer, they would have bought the brewery and continued making it in Latrobe. That would have honored the tradition and paid tribute to its history. This is spin and propaganda at its most openly brash. Curiously, this press release does not appear, at least as far as I can tell, on their corporate website where their other press releases reside. Instead, it came through PR Newswire, an online service that disseminates press releases to journalists and other industry watchers. Draw your own conclusions for that, but it seems at least a little odd.

Also from the press release:

Rolling Rock bottles will continue to have a two-color painted label on green glass from the same supplier in Pennsylvania. The front label will continue to recognize Latrobe Brewing Co., along with a required geographic designation. Anheuser-Busch will first brew Rolling Rock in the northeast, but expansion to other locations is expected. Therefore, the company is opting to place its St. Louis headquarters on the bottle.

Well that seems reasonable. A-B will be making Rolling Rock in Newark, New Jersey, stating on the bottle that it’s “from the glass-lined tanks of old Latrobe” (Pennsylvania) and listing its origin as St. Louis, Missouri. Let’s review once more the letter A-B sent to All About Beer magazine in response to some labeling criticisms beer writer Fred Eckhardt had made in a 1997 article.

We don’t take issue with contract brewing — we just think beer drinkers have the right to know who really brews their beer. We, along with many other traditional brewers and beer enthusiasts, object to those who mislead consumers by marketing their beers as “craft brewed,” when in fact their beers are made in large breweries.

It may not be a perfect fit, but it still shows the King has an arbitrary sense of moral righteousness and some curious notions of right and wrong, very much in the mold of Louis XIV and other Old World royalty. It’s wrong if they do it but when we do it we’re just “honoring tradition.” Uh-huh. We are not amused.

Barton Beers to Import Corona Nationwide

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When it was announced back in early March that Gambrinus had lost an arbitration and more significantly the contract to import Corona — and other Grupo Modelo brands — throughout the Eastern half of the U.S., speculations ran high as to who would be awarded that lucrative contract. Well, the wait is over and as many predicted, it will go to Barton Beers of Chicago. Barton Beers currently imports Corona in the western half of the U.S. so with this move, Grupo Modelo will have one importer for the entire country. In addition to Corona and the other Modelo brands — Modelo Especial, Negra Modelo and Pacifico — Barton also imports St. Pauli Girl and Tsingtao. Barton in turn is owned by Constellation Brands, a giant in the world of liquor and wine.

The Gambrinus contract ends next year, when Barton will take over Corona nationwide on January 2. The new contract with Barton will last for ten years. According to a press release put out by Constellation Brands, the new relationship between the two companies is actually a joint venture.

Corona is, despite its weak flavor and lack of character, the number one selling import beer in America, having eclipsed Heineken for that dubious honor in 1997.

Miller Strike Looming

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According to UPI, the Teamsters are warning distributors of Miller beer throughout Milwaukee, Chicago, New York, Boston, Philadelphia and Minneapolis that a strike is imminent. Apparently healthcare benefits are the sticking point in negotiations between the union — who represents more than 1,400 employees of the brewery — and SABMiller, Miller’s parent company.

Miller’s union workers voted to authorize a strike back in the third week of June. The Teamsters press release today discusses possible strategies for this potential strike and yesterday they warned that SBMiller was risking US Market share by ignoring healthcare concerns of union workers.

Old Contradictions

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I have to give credit for this to Randy Bishop of idDream, who posted it on his blog as an update to a piece he wrote regarding Anheuser-Busch’s foray into the organic beer market with Wild Hop Lager and Stone Mill Pale Ale. He uncovered a letter I’d read before but had forgotten about regarding an article written by Fred Eckhardt for the March 1997 issue of All About Beer magazine. The article concerned the long-standing feud between Anheuser-Busch and Boston Beer Co. Fred wrote about the contradictions A-B argued about with regard to contract brewing. A-B responded to Fred’s article with a lengthy response of their own. In that response, A-B said the following:

We don’t take issue with contract brewing — we just think beer drinkers have the right to know who really brews their beer. We, along with many other traditional brewers and beer enthusiasts, object to those who mislead consumers by marketing their beers as “craft brewed,” when in fact their beers are made in large breweries.

Fast forward nine years to the release of Wild Hop Lager, which revealed its origin only to the beer cogniscenti who when they read “Fairfield, CA” on a beer label knew something most people wouldn’t realize. Ironically, the argument expressed in their letter to Fred is the same one I made in my original post about this back in March, Wild Hop Lager: A Sheep in Wolf’s Clothing. Several months after its initial release the website now acknowledges that it’s a A-B product but the packaging in the stores still does not. Perhaps when they move through the existing packaging the new labels and carriers will reveal its true ownership Until then, I think they’ll be doing exactly what they accused Samuel Adams of in 1997: misleading consumers.

Oregon Trader Gets New Owners, New Name

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According to an article in the Corvallis Gazette-Times, Orgeon Trader Brewing located in Albany, Oregon has been sold and re-named Calapooia Brewing Co. The new owners, Mark Martin and Laura Bryngelson, opened about three weeks ago. Their best-seller so far is Yankee Clipper IPA. They also apparently offer an amber, a chile beer, a pale ale, a stout and a wheat beer. Best of luck to them both.

AP Discovers Wild Hop Lager

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Yesterday’s media ran a story by AP entitled “Organic beer sales grow, Anheuser-Busch enters market.” The article itself is fine, mostly comprehensive and well-written. But what struck me was the phrase A-B “enters market” (my emphasis) because I started writing about Wild Hop Lager on March 23. To my mind, almost four months later is not exactly a scoop by the mainstream press.

One statement in the article was quite interesting regarding sales of organic beer:

While organic beer sales are still minuscule in the overall beer industry, they are rising fast. North American sales of organic beers grew from $9 million in 2003 to $19 million in 2005, according to the Organic Trade Association.

That’s slightly better than doubling sales growth in two years’ time, which is pretty impressive.

Pyramid CEO Resigns

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Pyramid Brewing announced today that CEO John Lennon has resigned, effective immediately. The company is reporting that Lennon left to “pursue other business interests,” which is about a vague as you can get. He had been on the job only since last August, and before that he was with Beck’s. It will be interesting to see what finally comes out as the real reason for his departure, because in my mind these sort of things don’t play out like this unless there is a hidden agenda.

He will be replaced by board member Scott Barnum, who previously has worked for Pete’s Brewing and Miller. Barnum is a resident of the Bay Area and will apparently maintain offices both in Berkeley and Seattle.

Technology is Not Always a Good Thing

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Today’s Denver Post business section has a profile of Outlast Technologies, the company that’s making the gimmicky “Cold Wrap” labels that are designed to absorb the heat from your hand rather than warm the beer to a temperature where you might be able to actually taste it. It took Outlast a full year to design the label and goodness knows what amount of money, which is ironic because I can solve their problem for a fraction of whatever Coors spent. Here’s how. In order to keep heat radiating from your hand from warming your beer, open the bottle, take it in your hand and gently pour it into a pilsner glass. Voilà, no more problem. If only they had consulted with me first.

Here is Coors’ press release about the cold wrap, which also explains the “Stay Cold Glassware,” another part of the strategy to keep the beer from having any discernable taste.

So it appears that Coors’ main focus in selling their beer is all about how cold it is and how they’ll use technology to make it stay cold. This is good news, of course, if you know how it tastes warm. But do a taste test for yourself. Get Pilsner Urquell, Czechvar, Lagunitas Pils, Victory Prima Pils or similar good pilsner beers. Let them and your Coors Light warm to between 45 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit (7-10° C). Now taste them. Which ones still taste good? That should tell you everything you need to know about which beer is right for you.

At the risk of repeating myself, beer that’s too cold chemically alters the beer and change its taste. The reason you generally don’t notice it is simply because drinking any liquid at that temperature also numbs many of your taste buds. Several volatile components in the beer aren’t released in your mouth and disappear undetected down your throat. The beer’s flavor profile is considerably narrowed and some tastes disappear completely. Cold beer also effects the beer’s balance because hop character survives better than malt or fruity esters. This is the reason bland lagers, which are generally less well-hopped, do better at cold temperatures and explains why ales are generally served at warmer temperatures. A good rule of thumb is the colder the beer, the less of it you can actually taste.

This is why all the big breweries emphasize the coldness of their beers as a selling point. The warmer you drink their products, the less likely it is you will enjoy them. And it’s why they spend millions to persuade you that you should drink their beer as cold as possible. That would be fine except that now millions of people belive that cold beer is a desirable thing, when in fact it’s not. It’s a remarkable success story for adveritising and marketing, and tragic failure for those of us who actually like the taste of beer.

 

 

But the gimmicks don’t stop with the bottle. Coors also spent a fortune developing the “Frost Brew Liner,” a “blue” coating inside the beer can that is supposed to keep the beer colder. There is very little actual information about this, and their press release reveals only the following:

In order to protect the Rocky Mountain taste of its beer, all Coors cans contain a Frost Brew Liner. With new graphics this summer, Coors Light is making it easy for consumers to identify the liners by making them visible with blue pull tabs and rims. The Frost Brew Liner cans with the blue rims will be on shelves May 1, 2006.

 

But an anonymous insider involved in the manufacture of the product says “in fact the blue colored lining is a potential threat to flavor and product compatibility, but their [Coors] marketing department insisted. We would really like to discourage the idea!” As I understand it, the chemicals in the blue dye they had to use to make the lining blue — which was done strictly for marketing reasons — actually has the potential to be harmful to the beer. This is particularly troubling as several dozen craft breweries put their beer in cans, taking advantage of improved technology for the can linings. This new technology removes the former problems with canned beer insofar as there is no longer a problem with leeching or metallic flavors being imparted to the beer. So along comes Coors and essentially puts the problem literally back into the can.

So marketing concerns trumped common sense, the stability of the product itself, and has created a situation with the potential to harm the image of canned beer at a time when good beer is starting to be put into it in growing numbers. Of course, the real solution again is that beer should never, ever be consumed out of the delivery vehicle (bottle, can or keg) and should always be poured into a glass. There are myriad reasons for this is but now there’s one more to add to the list. Keep in mind that almost all advertising is mere propaganda and especially ignore any that suggests cold beer is better.