Brookston Beer Bulletin

Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Wild Hop Lager: A Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing

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I’m walking through my local independent grocery store this afternoon, trying to get everything on my list when I realize I’m in the beer aisle. Old habits die hard, so I survey what’s there and notice a beer I’ve not heard of before: Wild Hop Lager. I pick up the six-pack carrier and pull out a bottle. Green Valley Brewing Company? Ever heard of them? Me neither. Now I’m only human but it’s not often that I’m stumped. I don’t usually run into completely new breweries I’ve never heard of. So I take a closer look at the packaging and read everything on the label. It’s supposedly organic certified by the UDSA? But in the back of my head I’m thinking it was a different organization that certified organic status. Didn’t I read that somewhere in connection with Wolaver’s a few years ago? The packaging looks good, almost too good. It’s slick and well done and even uses printed crowns, unusual for a start-up brewery. I’m becoming suspicious, I can’t even say why at this point. There’s a web address on the carrier, but there’s no brewery information on the label. No address, apart from Fairfield, California. Uh-oh. I pull a bottle out of the carrier again and examine it more closely. Only one more clue, but it’s a compelling one. There at the bottom of the bottom, on the left hand side, is a freshness date. That’s also a curious thing for a new brewery to have on their label. I feel like Sherlock Holmes and things aren’t adding up. But I’ve got a hunch, and it’s a pretty good one, too, I think, as I head home to check it out.

When I get home, I type in the website URL and wait for it to load, which doesn’t take too long. It has an age verification check, and it’s feeding my hunch, too. How many small breweries have those? The webpage itself is only one page, with no clickable links anywhere, just a message “Check back soon for more on Wild Hop Lager.”

The entire website consists of a picture of the bottle and the following text:

Let the Good Times Grow

Wild Hop Lager is made with 100% organic barley malt, giving this certified USDA Organic brew a hearty taste that is rich and flavorful. Plus, with every purchase of Wild Hop Lager, a donation will be made to the Organic Farming Research Foundation to improve and educate people on organic farming practices. Together we can set a better example for future generations.

Organic … and they donate to charity. This is getting better and better. So I do a whois search to find out who is the owner of the domain name and — I’m almost giddy when I see it — I’m right. It belongs to Anheuser-Busch of St. Louis, Missouri. I dig a little further and discover the Maltlog on the website for the Missouri Division of Alcohol and Tobacco Control. On February 6, 2006, A-B applied to register “Wild Hop Lager” and “Harbin Lager” and both were granted on February 10. Ohio similarly approved the name on February 14 of this year.

Now this isn’t the first time Anheuser-Busch has tried to make a microbrew. Anybody remember Pacific Ridge Pale Ale? As far as I know, they’re still making kegs of it at the Fairfield plant and selling it to restaurants and bars as their own private label craft beer. But there’s one distinct difference between Wild Hop Lager and Pacific Ridge. On all the Pacific Ridge packaging, it was clearly disclosed that it was an Anheuser-Busch package. With Wild Hop Lager, no such disclosure is made. In fact, it appears downright designed to appear to be a real craft brewed beer, not that that’s new either. There never was a Plank Road Brewery (it was Miller) or a Blue Moon Brewery (that one was Coors), either.

This is just the latest attempt to regain flagging sales. With good growth in the craft beer segment, it’s hardly surprising that they’d try to make their own craft beer-like product. It’s their modus operandi, after all, to infiltrate any segement of the market they can and either dominate it or shut it down. That this was so clandestine is a little surprising and most consumers, I fear, won’t realize they’re being duped. I’m perfectly okay with Anheuser-Busch making a better beer, but I’d be a lot more comfortable with it if they didn’t go about it in such a way that seems so underhanded and deceitful.

Anheuser-Busch’s new macro-micro on the shelves of my local grocer.

UPDATE: Several people on various forums have commented that they would have liked to see tasting notes for the beer here. While I was unwilling to part with the $8 necessary to provide tasting notes, the San Francisco Chronicle did a blind tasting of the beer as a part of their coverage of this story on March 30.

Bay Area Brewer in Belgium

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Last night on his Lufthansa flight back from belgium, 21st Amendment brewer Shaun O’Sullivan e-mailed me some of his photos from his trip to Belgium, so I thought I’d share them with everybody.

With the bartenders at the Koln Karnival at the local Pfaffen Brewery in downtown Koln.

Shaun with Jen Garris of Magnolia Brewpub and a local clown.

Shaun with another local at the Koln bar.

Touring Chimay with Pierre, a civilian that works in the brewery.

Outside of Rochefort brewery.

According to Shaun, the gate was open at Rochefort, so they just walked in and took pictures. Nobody said anything to them because of the vow of silence.

Watermelon Funk: A Collaboration

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21st-amend russian-river
The fruit beer craze is definitely over, not that that’s a bad thing. Most of the remaining fruit beers are very worthwhile and quite tasty. Beers such as New Glarus’ Raspberry Tart, Unibroue’s Quelque Chose or Great Divide’s Wild Raspberry Ale spring to mind. But a local favorite has to be Shaun O’Sullivan’s Watermelon Wheat, that has become as much a sign of summer as the first robin is of spring. A ubiquitous sight at 21st Amendment during the warm weather, Watermelon Wheat is very refreshing with strong watermelon aromas and flavor from the many pounds of watermelon added to each batch.

Shaun has now given several barrels to Vinnie Cilurzo at Russian River Brewing and he’s put them in oak barrels and sparked them with the Belgian yeast Brettanomyces. Nobody knows what this experiment will taste like, but I for one hope to be around when we find out. It should, at the very least, be quite interesting.

Anderson Valley Goes Solar

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Anderson Valley Brewing Co. of Boonville, California announced today the completion of an almost one million dollar project to generate their own solar power to brew beer. A final inspection was successfully completed today by PG&E and their new state-of-the-art photovoltaic system went on-line immediately thereafter.

“We‚ve got solar powered beer going on here,” said Peter Suddeth, longtime brewery employee (and press release author). “You can drink it and feel good that you’re helping to preserve the environment.”

From the press release:

The $860,000 project includes two arrays; a 175 ft. by 53 ft. array on the south facing roof of the brewery’s cellar and packaging facility, and a separate 120 ft. by 24 ft. ground-based freestanding array. The 125 kWh system is the largest privately owned PV system north of the San Francisco Bay Area, and among the largest in the western hemisphere. The brewers hope that the system will produce as much as 40% of their annual electrical needs.

The project underscores the brewery’s longstanding commitment to keeping its environmental impact as low as possible. “We feel an obligation, specifically to this pristine valley in which we’re located, but to the rest of the world as well, to be responsible with resources. We recycle as much of our waste as we can; paper, plastic, glass, cardboard. We have our own waste water reclamation system, and now we can greatly reduce our reliance on outside electricity,” said brewery president, Kenneth Allen “Solar is the future. We’re proud to be getting a jump on it,” Allen continued, citing statistics showing that almost 75% of the electricity used in California is generated with nonrenewable resources such as coal, natural gas, and uranium. Solar energy is currently California’s most abundant source of electricity, and yet, at under three tenths of a percent, it is the most under utilized. (Source: 2004 Net System Power Calculation Report, Energy Commission Publication # 300-04-001R)

The installation of the first 391 solar panels of the large array (592 panels; 175 ft. by 53 ft.) on the roof of the brewery’s cellar and packaging facility back in June of 2005. [photo by Peter Suddeth, AVBC]

From left: Pete Gregson, of Advance Solar in Calpella, California, and Rod DeWitt, Director of Plant Engineering & Process Control at Anderson Valley Brewing, discuss the completed smaller array (176 panels, 120 ft. by 24 ft.). The Roof of the Brewhouse, and about half of the large array can be seen behind. [photo by Peter Suddeth, AVBC]

Photo Gallery: Celebrator 18th Anniversary Party

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The Celebrator Beer News held it’s 18th Anniversary Party Sunday evening at Trumer Brauerei in Berkeley, California. In addition to being a fun event, it was also for a worthy cause this year. A portion of the proceeds will reportedly be donated to Louisiana breweries through Abita and the Louisiana Disaster Recovery Foundation. The entire evening featured mardi gras touches from the green and purple decor to the ubiquitous beads to the evening’s opening act, a local cajun band. The second band was the Hysters, the crowd-pleasing big band of Anchor Brewery workers, and the final act was the Rolling Boil Blues Band. There were 50 beers from 15 breweries and food was prepared on site by Jeremy Sowers’ Emergency BBQ. Jeremy is also a local brewer, with gigs at Jack’s in Fremont along with Devil’s Canyon. Many of the Bay Area’s beer cognoscenti was on hand to enjoy the revelry, and we had a number of surprise guests from out of town, too. The Trumer folks were gracious hosts, providing a shuttle to and from the Shattuck BART station, along with much else. This was the second year this event was held at Trumer and it’s felling like home already for future anniversary parties.

Host for the evening Tom Dalldorf, publisher of the Celebrator.

Tim Blasquez and the gang from Sierra Nevada Brewing.

Bob Brewer from Anchor Brewery serves up the new Anchor Bock to Portland beer sage Fred Eckhardt.

Ed Chainey from Anderson Valley Brewing.

Kenny Gross with Ommegang.

Natalie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing.

Jeremy Sowers from Emergency BBQ, who prepared the food for the event.

Kendra belts out a tune with the Hyster’s, the band made up of Anchor Brewery employees.

Some party-goers sat and enjoyed the beers.

While others danced to the music.

While still others talked with old friends. Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing with Chris Black, co-owner of the Falling Rock in Denver. Plus, it was Chris’ birthday.

Melissa Myers and Rodger Davis from Drake’s Brewing sandwich Cynthia Kralj, co-owner of the Bistro.

Jamie Jurado, Director of Brewing Operations for Gambrinus (and who own Trumer Brauerei) and Lars Larson, brewmaster of Trumer Brauerei.

Judy Ashworth, Fred Eckhardt and Lori Ashworth.

Beer chef Bruce Paton from Cathedral Hill Hotel and Pat Mace, from Lagunitas Brewing.

Roger Lind, the original Jolly Roger from Lind’s Brewing which is now Drake’s and Steve Altimari, brewmaster from Valley Brewing in Stockton.

Jen Garris, from Magnolia, and Matt Salie, from Big Sky Brewing.

L.A. Celebrator correspondent Don Erickson finds a quiet place to enjoy his barbecue and pulled pork.

The Rolling Boil Blues Band.

Boil front man Tom Dalldorf.

In true Mardi Gras fashion, the band throw beads to the audience.

Who shout for attention and for beads to thrown in their direction.

At the end of the evening, from left: Shaun O’Sullivan, from 21st Amendment, Fred Eckhardt, a woman who wanted this picture taken, me, Tom Dalldorf and a brewer from Brewmasters, whose name is now sadly lost to me.

Photo Gallery: Toronado Barley Wine Festival 2006

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There were over fifty barleywines at this year’s Toronado Barley Wine Festival. Now in its thirteenth year it has become the premiere barleywine festival in the country. People come in from all over the country and even from all over the world to sample some of the finest barleywines being made today. This year appeared to be another rousing success.

The main bar at the Toronado fills up during festival day. Your best bet is to come as early as possible.

Most serious tasters get a table with a group of people who take turns getting several beers at a time. These are then set down on these handy numbered sheets so you can esaily keep track of all 50+ beers.

Arne Johnson, brewmaster at Marin Brewing relaxes with a few barleywines.

Across the street in the judge’s anteroom, a serious discussion is under way. From left: Bob Coleman, Shaun O’Sullivan (from 21st Amendment), Pete Slosberg (from Cocoa Pete’s) and Amy Slosberg.

Lori Ashworth, Tom Dalldorf (Celebrator publisher), Judy Ashworth, and fellow judge Paul Marshall.

The final judging panel.

Gordon Strong checks the aroma of a sample. Gordon wrote the style guidelines for both barleywines and Imperial IPAs for the BJCP.

Everyone offers a toast to the winning barleywine, Artic Devil from Anchorge, Alaska’s Midnight Sun Brewing.

Photo Gallery: Chocolate & Beer Dinner at Cathedral Hill Hotel

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Friday night there was a Chocolate & Belgian Beer Dinner at the Cathedral Hill Hotel in San Francisco. Chef Bruce Paton, a.k.a. the Beer Chef, has been putting on these sort of dinners for ten years and is rightly famous for them. The beers for the dinner were Aventinus and all of the imported Chimays. The chocolate was Scharffen Berger. Besides the cocktail hour of Aventinus and chocolatey hors d’oeuvres, there were four courses, each with a different Chimay beer paired with it and chocolate used in the dish itself. First course was Napoleon of Butter Poached Lobster, Artichoke and Celery Root with Chocolate Sauce Americaine paired with Chimay Cinq Cents. The second course was Ravioli of Duck Confit and Cocoa Nibs in Natural Jus with Duck Ham and Micro Arugula paired with Chimay Premiere. Third course was Angus Beef Short Ribs Braised in Chimay with Creamy Grits and Chocolate Balsamic Reduction paired with Chimay Grand Reserve. The fourt and dessert course was a trio of Artisan Chocolate Escapades with Vintage 2000 Chimay Grand Reserve to wash it down. Everything was delicious and the evening was a rollicking success for all.

Beer Chef Bruce Paton addresses the crowd.

Lars Larson, brewmaster at Trumer Brauerei in Berkeley, poses with Judy Ashworth’s daughter, whose holding up the back page of the Celebrator with Lars’ picture on it, and Tom Dalldorf, Celebrator publisher.

Tom Dalldorf with Pete and Amy Slosberg, of Pete’s Wicked fame. Pete’s now doing his own chocolates and they’re quite yummy under the name Cocoa Pete’s.

Fal Allen (who’s now in Singapore), Kate Gaiser (from Washington) and me.

Two Marin brewers. James Costa (from Moylan’s) and Arne Johnson (from Marin Brewing)

Dave Suurballe (from the Toronado), Fal Allen and Shaun O’Sullivan (from 21st Amendment)

Fal and Shaun mug for the camera.

Yes, Shaun that’s mugging for the camera. If you keep making this face I’ll continue calling it mugging.

Matt Salie, who’s now with Big Sky Brewing cracks up Fal and Shaun.

Our yummy dessert plate.

Getting a leg up on dessert.

Chef Bruce Paton (in white) and someone from Scharffen Berger whose name I didn’t catch along with all the brewers present. From left: Arne Johnson, Fal Allen, Lars Larson, Shaun O’Sullivan and James Costa.

Valentine’s Day Rejection: It’s Delicious

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Russian River Brewing’s Valentine’s Day seasonal beer is called Rejection, a name so perfect for the holiday that I thought I’d go there today with my sweetheart (in this case with my daughter Alice) and try a pint.

When I arrived, Vinnie and his assistant brewer, Travis, were in the middle of a bottling day, the third in a row of four scheduled. So after a brief chat, we excused ourselves and with Natalie, Vinnie’s partner in all things, Alice and I went back to the brewpub for a little lunch. While Alice gnawed on her yummy pizza, Natalie and I talked about this and that. I had only visited the brewpub once other than on its opening day almost three years ago. The place still looks great; open, airy and inviting.

Since I specifically came for the Rejection, I ordered a pint of it, which came in a tulip glass. It’s a Belgian-style black ale, and is surprisingly mild given its name and the fact that roasted malt is used. But in fact Vinnie uses de-bittered black malt. This is a special malt that uses an evaporative process that makes it much less astringent than your average black malt.

This is the second year Russian River has brewed Rejection. The name came from Tomme Arthur, brewmaster at Pizza Port Solana Beach in San Diego who had an epiphany a few weeks before Valentine’s Day last year and rang up Vinnie to give him the idea. Vinnie looked around to see what he had around the brewery and rejection was born. This year’s, with slightly more planning time, uses a different yeast but is otherwise the same as the original. It’s 6.1% abv but tastes lighter than that.

Rejection has dark black color with a generous tan head and light nose with malty sweetmess. Clean, malty flavors with mildly sweet notes that are never cloying. There are delightfully subtle undertones of jam and plums. It has a wonderful mouthfeel and a very clean finish. If this is what rejection tastes like, give me more.

Russian River owner/brewer Vinnie Cilurzo with his assistant Travis and Brian Hunt, owner/brewer of nearby Moonlight Brewing who had stopped by for a visit today.

Marin Brewing Up a Quadruple

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Arne Johnson, brewmaster at Marin Brewing Co. in Larkspur, California (and the winner of this year’s Bistro Double IPA Festival), told me on Saturday that he’s brewed his first quadruple and that it’s in the tank now. He anticipates it will be available at the pub in about six weeks. That would be the week of March 26, the last week of the month. Mark your calendars, it should be worth waiting for.