Brookston Beer Bulletin

Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Budvar: Delicious and Funny

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České Budějovice, who makes Budvar Budweiser, the original Budweiser beer from the Czech Republic, has had to fight tooth and nail in virtually every country throughout the world to assert its rights to the name Budweiser. Here in the U.S., of course, they lost that fight, which is why in this country the beer was re-christened Czechvar. They’ve won in quite a few countries, but lost in some more, as well. Throughout the world, the beer is known as Budweiser, Budvar, Budweiser Budvar, Bud, Budějovický Budvar, and Czechvar. The beer is brewed at the Budějovický Budvar brewery, which began in the 13th Century. The brewery is located in the city of České Budějovice, formerly also known as Budiwoyz and Budweis. Admittedly, this is all very complicated and confusing, so perhaps this historical summary from the brewery website may help:

The term Budweiser is derived from the town of Budějovice, known as Budweis or Budějovice since the 14th century – 200 years before Christopher Columbus discovered America. Budweis – the official name of the town – was not “Czechified” as Česke Budějovice until 1918 (with the exception of 1939-1945, i.e. the Second World War and the occupation of Czechoslovakia by Nazi Germany, when the name of the town reverted briefly to its German form. In some languages Budweis is still the preferred name. České Budějovice has been renowned for brewing from time immemorial (see the chapter entitled History of Beer in České Budějovice). To differentiate the town’s beer from the output of breweries in other areas, the beer was called the Budweiser Bier (i.e. “Beer from Budějovice”). Logically, the company Český akciový pivovar (Böhmisches Action-Bräuhaus in Budweis in German) decided to brand its beer by its place of origin, as it followed up on the tradition of brewing Budějovice beer in České Budějovice. The beer from Budějovice was so well known that Budweiser Bier became a synonym of quality. Ever since it started operations, the brewery used various names using the Budweiser word on its products, and it gradually started registering the brands as trademarks. After the signature of the Lisbon International Treaty (1958), it acquired the national and international registration of the terms Budějovice Beer (Budweiser Bier) and Budějovický Budvar (Budweiser Budvar) in the states who were parties to the Lisbon Treaty.

And of course, their legal trouble are legendary. Again, from the brewery website:

The history of disputes over Budějovický Budvar’s trademarks dates back to the beginning of the last century. For decades, one of the major US breweries had tried to buy the rights to its trademarks from Budějovický Budvar, initially only for the territory of the US. Just before the Second World War, this brewery in fact was successful in its attempts. This US brewery has continued its efforts to obtain Budějovický Budvar’s trademarks until today.

Budějovický Budvar is therefore currently defending its historical rights to its trademarks against Anheuser-Busch, which is attacking Budějovický Budvar through over 40 lawsuits and more than 40 administrative proceedings before patent authorities all over the world. A large majority of the courts’ decisions uphold Budějovický Budvar’s rights to its trademarks. Budějovický Budvar has recently won trademark disputes e.g. in the UK, Australia, Japan, South Korea, Greece, Portugal, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and New Zealand.

But believe it or not, my reasons for starting this post had nothing to do with history, I just got a little carried away by it all. What led me to Budvar today was a number of very funny television commercials that are available from a related website.

The are 26 ads in different themes, such as hockey, soccer fans, some sweaty fat guys, and the running of the bulls at Pamplona. Despite the language barrier, they’re all pretty funny.

Oh, and did I mention the beer is very tasty? It is. It’s a very flavorful, clean Czech pilsner.

Grolsch to Be Distributed Nationally by Anheuser-Busch

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Anheuser-Busch announced today that beginning in 2007 they would begin exclusively distributing Grolsch in the United States. The Netherlands beer is most famous for its unique green bottle and ceramic flip-top crown. The AP Story by Christopher Leonard ran in today’s LA Times, as well as other papers throughout the country and abroad. From the press release:

Anheuser-Busch will become the U.S. importer of the upscale Grolsch traditional European beer brands, giving the American brewer a well-established and popular entry in the growing U.S. import category, the two brewers jointly announced today.

The agreement gives the Dutch brands access to the Anheuser-Busch broad marketing and sales expertise and to its wide reaching U.S. distribution network. The deal is part of an aggressive push by Anheuser-Busch into high-end beer categories.

….

The agreement will be effective January 2007. Terms of the agreement were not disclosed. The imported Grolsch beer will continue to be brewed at the Grolsch brewery in Enschede, Netherlands, for export to the United States.

Grolsch is currently distributed by United States Beverage (USB) of Stamford, Connecticut. Calls to USB for comment were not immediately returned. I will update this story once they have responded. USB was founded by Joseph J. Fisch, Jr., formerly of Seagram’s. Grolsch was arguably the most popular beer in their portfolio. Once rumored to be in line to pick up Bass Ale, they currently also distribute SLO Brewing and Mariner of Holland, along with several alcopops and coolers.

Washington State Contemplating Beer Commission

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Elysian Brewing co-owner Dick Cantwell was featured in an AP story which ran today in the Seattle Times. It appears that the state legislature is “poised” (their word) to create a state beer commission to promote Washington-made beers.

From the article:

The crusade to establish Washington-made as a premium microbrew brand is in line for some help from the state Legislature, which appears willing to create a new industry promotional arm called the Washington Beer Commission.

If lawmakers give their blessing, the commission would be officially empowered to levy a modest tax on its producers, put on fundraising festivals, and — perhaps most importantly — give away free beer.

“I drink milk, personally,” said state Sen. Marilyn Rasmussen, D-Eatonville, a dairy farmer who is a sponsor of the Beer Commission bill. “But as long as they use Washington hops and Washington barley, I approve.”

The beer makers’ model is the Washington Wine Commission, seen as instrumental in promoting the state’s most well-known adult beverage during its rise to national prominence in the past 20 years.

Dick Cantwell, brewer and co-owner of Elysian Brewing.

 Sounds good to me. Washington certainly makes some wonderful beers and they should shout about them. In addition to being home to the first brewpub in modern times — Grant’s in 1982 — Washington state won the sixth highest number of medals at last year’s Great American Beer Festival. There are 54 active members of the Washington Brewers Guild and include many world class breweries.
 
 

And congratulations to Dick on the good press.

Photo Gallery: Celebrator 18th Anniversary Party

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The Celebrator Beer News held it’s 18th Anniversary Party Sunday evening at Trumer Brauerei in Berkeley, California. In addition to being a fun event, it was also for a worthy cause this year. A portion of the proceeds will reportedly be donated to Louisiana breweries through Abita and the Louisiana Disaster Recovery Foundation. The entire evening featured mardi gras touches from the green and purple decor to the ubiquitous beads to the evening’s opening act, a local cajun band. The second band was the Hysters, the crowd-pleasing big band of Anchor Brewery workers, and the final act was the Rolling Boil Blues Band. There were 50 beers from 15 breweries and food was prepared on site by Jeremy Sowers’ Emergency BBQ. Jeremy is also a local brewer, with gigs at Jack’s in Fremont along with Devil’s Canyon. Many of the Bay Area’s beer cognoscenti was on hand to enjoy the revelry, and we had a number of surprise guests from out of town, too. The Trumer folks were gracious hosts, providing a shuttle to and from the Shattuck BART station, along with much else. This was the second year this event was held at Trumer and it’s felling like home already for future anniversary parties.

Host for the evening Tom Dalldorf, publisher of the Celebrator.

Tim Blasquez and the gang from Sierra Nevada Brewing.

Bob Brewer from Anchor Brewery serves up the new Anchor Bock to Portland beer sage Fred Eckhardt.

Ed Chainey from Anderson Valley Brewing.

Kenny Gross with Ommegang.

Natalie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing.

Jeremy Sowers from Emergency BBQ, who prepared the food for the event.

Kendra belts out a tune with the Hyster’s, the band made up of Anchor Brewery employees.

Some party-goers sat and enjoyed the beers.

While others danced to the music.

While still others talked with old friends. Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing with Chris Black, co-owner of the Falling Rock in Denver. Plus, it was Chris’ birthday.

Melissa Myers and Rodger Davis from Drake’s Brewing sandwich Cynthia Kralj, co-owner of the Bistro.

Jamie Jurado, Director of Brewing Operations for Gambrinus (and who own Trumer Brauerei) and Lars Larson, brewmaster of Trumer Brauerei.

Judy Ashworth, Fred Eckhardt and Lori Ashworth.

Beer chef Bruce Paton from Cathedral Hill Hotel and Pat Mace, from Lagunitas Brewing.

Roger Lind, the original Jolly Roger from Lind’s Brewing which is now Drake’s and Steve Altimari, brewmaster from Valley Brewing in Stockton.

Jen Garris, from Magnolia, and Matt Salie, from Big Sky Brewing.

L.A. Celebrator correspondent Don Erickson finds a quiet place to enjoy his barbecue and pulled pork.

The Rolling Boil Blues Band.

Boil front man Tom Dalldorf.

In true Mardi Gras fashion, the band throw beads to the audience.

Who shout for attention and for beads to thrown in their direction.

At the end of the evening, from left: Shaun O’Sullivan, from 21st Amendment, Fred Eckhardt, a woman who wanted this picture taken, me, Tom Dalldorf and a brewer from Brewmasters, whose name is now sadly lost to me.

Photo Gallery: Toronado Barley Wine Festival 2006

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There were over fifty barleywines at this year’s Toronado Barley Wine Festival. Now in its thirteenth year it has become the premiere barleywine festival in the country. People come in from all over the country and even from all over the world to sample some of the finest barleywines being made today. This year appeared to be another rousing success.

The main bar at the Toronado fills up during festival day. Your best bet is to come as early as possible.

Most serious tasters get a table with a group of people who take turns getting several beers at a time. These are then set down on these handy numbered sheets so you can esaily keep track of all 50+ beers.

Arne Johnson, brewmaster at Marin Brewing relaxes with a few barleywines.

Across the street in the judge’s anteroom, a serious discussion is under way. From left: Bob Coleman, Shaun O’Sullivan (from 21st Amendment), Pete Slosberg (from Cocoa Pete’s) and Amy Slosberg.

Lori Ashworth, Tom Dalldorf (Celebrator publisher), Judy Ashworth, and fellow judge Paul Marshall.

The final judging panel.

Gordon Strong checks the aroma of a sample. Gordon wrote the style guidelines for both barleywines and Imperial IPAs for the BJCP.

Everyone offers a toast to the winning barleywine, Artic Devil from Anchorge, Alaska’s Midnight Sun Brewing.

Photo Gallery: Chocolate & Beer Dinner at Cathedral Hill Hotel

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Friday night there was a Chocolate & Belgian Beer Dinner at the Cathedral Hill Hotel in San Francisco. Chef Bruce Paton, a.k.a. the Beer Chef, has been putting on these sort of dinners for ten years and is rightly famous for them. The beers for the dinner were Aventinus and all of the imported Chimays. The chocolate was Scharffen Berger. Besides the cocktail hour of Aventinus and chocolatey hors d’oeuvres, there were four courses, each with a different Chimay beer paired with it and chocolate used in the dish itself. First course was Napoleon of Butter Poached Lobster, Artichoke and Celery Root with Chocolate Sauce Americaine paired with Chimay Cinq Cents. The second course was Ravioli of Duck Confit and Cocoa Nibs in Natural Jus with Duck Ham and Micro Arugula paired with Chimay Premiere. Third course was Angus Beef Short Ribs Braised in Chimay with Creamy Grits and Chocolate Balsamic Reduction paired with Chimay Grand Reserve. The fourt and dessert course was a trio of Artisan Chocolate Escapades with Vintage 2000 Chimay Grand Reserve to wash it down. Everything was delicious and the evening was a rollicking success for all.

Beer Chef Bruce Paton addresses the crowd.

Lars Larson, brewmaster at Trumer Brauerei in Berkeley, poses with Judy Ashworth’s daughter, whose holding up the back page of the Celebrator with Lars’ picture on it, and Tom Dalldorf, Celebrator publisher.

Tom Dalldorf with Pete and Amy Slosberg, of Pete’s Wicked fame. Pete’s now doing his own chocolates and they’re quite yummy under the name Cocoa Pete’s.

Fal Allen (who’s now in Singapore), Kate Gaiser (from Washington) and me.

Two Marin brewers. James Costa (from Moylan’s) and Arne Johnson (from Marin Brewing)

Dave Suurballe (from the Toronado), Fal Allen and Shaun O’Sullivan (from 21st Amendment)

Fal and Shaun mug for the camera.

Yes, Shaun that’s mugging for the camera. If you keep making this face I’ll continue calling it mugging.

Matt Salie, who’s now with Big Sky Brewing cracks up Fal and Shaun.

Our yummy dessert plate.

Getting a leg up on dessert.

Chef Bruce Paton (in white) and someone from Scharffen Berger whose name I didn’t catch along with all the brewers present. From left: Arne Johnson, Fal Allen, Lars Larson, Shaun O’Sullivan and James Costa.

Local Farmer to Re-Open Bert Grant’s Pub

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Bert Grant opened the country’s first brewpub in 1982 in Yakima, Washington and had been a fixture in the industry until his death in late July of 2001. Due to various financial troubles after his death, the original brewpub finally shuttered its doors in December of last year. But as reported last week in an AP story that was printed throughout local papers in the Pacific Northwest, Aaron Gamache, a 31-year-old beer lover and hop farmer in Toppenish, is planning on re-opening the pub under the name “Bert’s Pub” as an homage to Bert Grant, a move that has been endorsed by Grant’s family. Sounds like a nice legacy and one which I wholeheartedly — or would that be wholehoppedly — support.
 
 

Bert Grant and me at the Oregon Brewers Festival some time in the mid-1990s.

Craft Beer Up 9%, Leads All Adult Beverages for 2nd Consecutive Year

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We’d been hearing the rumors for a couple of weeks now but today the Brewers Association made it official. They announced today that the craft beer industry is showing excellent growth for the second consecutive year. This on the heels of Anheuser-Busch’s announcement of 4th quarter revenue having fallen 54.7% (before taxes) on February 1. Unnamed sources had previously told me the 9% figure was primarily in regional players and there was uncertainty how the smaller local brewers had fared. It appears now that these brewpubs and local brewers had another good year, as well, at least based on these numbers. This is excellent news for the industry and further signs that it has truly become a mature, stable industry.

From the press release:

Boulder, CO — February 16, 2005 – America’s craft brewers sold 9.0 percent more barrels of beer in 2005 versus 2004 making craft beer the fastest growing segment of the US beverage alcohol industry for the second consecutive year, according to the Brewers Association, the Boulder, CO-based trade association for US craft brewers.

“Craft beer volume growth far exceeded that of large brewers, wine and spirits in 2005,” said Paul Gatza, Director of the Brewers Association. “And even though imported beer grew nicely in 2005, craft beer grew at a faster rate.”

The Brewers Association estimates 2005 sales by craft brewers at 7,112,886 31-gallon barrels up from an adjusted total of 6,526,809 barrels in 2004, an increase of 586,077 barrels or 8.1 million case-equivalents.

Compared to craft beer volume growth of 9.0 percent, spirits volume increased at 3.3 percent in 2005 and wine volume was up 2.9 percent. The import segment of the beer industry rose 7.2 percent in 2005 while non-craft domestic beer volume declined slightly for the year. This establishes craft beer as the fastest growing segment of the US beverage alcohol business for the second year in a row.

“Consumer enjoyment of the flavor and diversity of craft beer continues to fuel healthy, steady growth in this segment,” said Ray Daniels, Director of Craft Beer Marketing for the Brewers Association. “Small brewers lead the entire industry by offering flavorful, interesting beers.”

The craft beer segment includes more than 1300 small, traditional and independent breweries which produce primarily all-malt beers. It includes both brewpubs which sell beer primarily at their own pub or restaurant and packaging breweries that distribute beer in kegs, cans and bottles to a wide range of retail outlets. The Brewers Association has tabulated industry growth data for these breweries annually since 1985.

One year ago, the Brewers Association reported craft segment growth of 7.2 percent for 2004, a year in which wine (2.7%), spirits (3.1%), imported beer (1.4%) and non-craft domestic beer (0.5%) all reported substantially smaller growth rates.

“The strong growth by craft beer in 2005 is especially impressive because it comes on top of strong performance in 2004,” said Gatza. For each of the last two years, craft beer growth has been stronger than in any year since 1996. He also noted that 2005 is the third year craft beer growth rates were stronger than those for imports. “Craft beer clearly leads the beer industry in consumer appeal.”

Not to rain on the parade just as the marching band strikes up the first tune (Roll Out the Barrel, no doubt), but I do feel compelled to point out that while this is great news and worth celebrating, by the numbers the craft beer industry is still just a drop in the kettle compared to overall domestic beer production.

I mention this simply to remind myself — and everyone else — that while we may have won a nice victory, the war still rages on. Anheuser-Busch has already been showing concern about the craft beer industry, despite our small overall numbers. Big corporations cannot accept any erosion of their market share or profits, so even our small gains they consider a taking from them. And believe me, this is not just about their pathetic “Here’s to Beer” campaign. There have been recent persistent rumors that A-B is approaching (or in some cases having their distributors approach) a large number of regional and local breweries about acquiring them. Let that sink in. Bud is looking to buy up a bunch of breweries, and is starting perhaps with the biggest and most influential. That would be a catastrophic event for the fledgling craft beer industry. (I know I just suggested it was mature and stable, but not as compared to the giant 100-plus-year old corporations.) If they are successful in waving carrots in front of enough beleaguered, overworked brewery owners then the jig could well and truly be up. And A-B has bigger, deeper carrots than all of the craft beer industry combined (I confess I made that last statistic up, but intuitively it feels right).

I’m reminded at this point of New Belgium Brewing co-founder Kim Jordan’s impassioned keynote speech at the New Orleans Craft Brewers Convention several years ago where she argued for solidarity among the industry to reach the lofty goal of 10% of the market. And while I may have concerns about New Belgium’s own business practices in this regard, I think her words resonate just as strongly today. This is exactly what we need to do. We need to close ranks right now. For those of you who are fans of American football, think about all of the post-victory locker room speeches. It doesn’t matter what team, the coach makes the exact same speech. Enjoy this moment, your win, but don’t rest on your laurels. Take tomorrow off, but then it’s back to work the next. This is just one victory, there’s another battle next week. And that’s true here, too. Let’s enjoy this moment. I for one will open a special beer tonight. But let’s also remember the war is hardly over and there is much to do. But for now, congratulations to all the brewers and breweries.

Valentine’s Day Rejection: It’s Delicious

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Russian River Brewing’s Valentine’s Day seasonal beer is called Rejection, a name so perfect for the holiday that I thought I’d go there today with my sweetheart (in this case with my daughter Alice) and try a pint.

When I arrived, Vinnie and his assistant brewer, Travis, were in the middle of a bottling day, the third in a row of four scheduled. So after a brief chat, we excused ourselves and with Natalie, Vinnie’s partner in all things, Alice and I went back to the brewpub for a little lunch. While Alice gnawed on her yummy pizza, Natalie and I talked about this and that. I had only visited the brewpub once other than on its opening day almost three years ago. The place still looks great; open, airy and inviting.

Since I specifically came for the Rejection, I ordered a pint of it, which came in a tulip glass. It’s a Belgian-style black ale, and is surprisingly mild given its name and the fact that roasted malt is used. But in fact Vinnie uses de-bittered black malt. This is a special malt that uses an evaporative process that makes it much less astringent than your average black malt.

This is the second year Russian River has brewed Rejection. The name came from Tomme Arthur, brewmaster at Pizza Port Solana Beach in San Diego who had an epiphany a few weeks before Valentine’s Day last year and rang up Vinnie to give him the idea. Vinnie looked around to see what he had around the brewery and rejection was born. This year’s, with slightly more planning time, uses a different yeast but is otherwise the same as the original. It’s 6.1% abv but tastes lighter than that.

Rejection has dark black color with a generous tan head and light nose with malty sweetmess. Clean, malty flavors with mildly sweet notes that are never cloying. There are delightfully subtle undertones of jam and plums. It has a wonderful mouthfeel and a very clean finish. If this is what rejection tastes like, give me more.

Russian River owner/brewer Vinnie Cilurzo with his assistant Travis and Brian Hunt, owner/brewer of nearby Moonlight Brewing who had stopped by for a visit today.