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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Heineken Light? Do We Really Need Another Light Beer?

January 18, 2006 By Jay Brooks

heineken-white
Heineken announced today that it is set to launch its Heineken Premium Light brand nationwide after a “successful” test launch in four states last year. For years they resisted this and in fact that was the reason Amstel Light was created. For the big beer business, light beer is only the category that has shown much growth in recent years. Since our economy is built on naked growth without regard to consequences, the last few years have seen the introduction of such useless products as Corona Light, Rolling Rock Light, Sam Adams Light and Edison Light.

What nobody ever talks about, especially not in the media, is the fact that the caloric difference between a regular beer and a light beer is virtually insignificant. Not to pick on them — the numbers are about the same for all brands — but a 12 ounce bottle of Budweiser is 145 calories while Bud Light is 110 calories. That’s a difference of 35 calories, which is the caloric content of an average size orange. Big freaking deal. The way light beers are advertised you’d think light beer had almost no calories. Even if you had an entire six-pack you’d only “save” 210 calories, or a little less than a cheese omlette. An entire category of goods — light beer — has been built on nothing. The dietary benefits are all but illusory but the propaganda machine called advertising pounded home the opposite message for years and years. And the viewing audience, with a gullibility that knows no limits, swallowed it without question. So ask most people if light beer is healthier or better for you and they’ll reply with a confident “yes.” But that’s just a magnificent success by advertising of convincing people of something that’s simply not true or at best, is greatly exaggerated. Every time I see someone drinking a light beer I can’t help thinking “another duped fool.” Of course, most people who drink light beer probably don’t care about how bad it tastes because it’s unlikely they can taste the difference.

Ironically, the man who invented light beer, Joe Owades, passed away last month in Sonoma County. He created light beer for Rheingold Breweries in the 1960s and they marketed it as a diet beer. It failed. He then took the recipe to his next job with the Meister Brau brewery where they did reasonably well with it. In 1972, Miller Brewing bought Meister Brau and released Miller Lite, which neither tasted great nor was less filling. But as they say, the rest is history. I’d met Joe a couple of times. He was a nice man, and I’m certainly sorry about his death, but the hard truth is he was no friend of the craft beer industry. He believed that ale yeast was defective. Of course, the majority of craft beer is ale. So according to Joe, most craft beer is defective. Now to my knowledge he never explained how a naturally occurring living organism like yeast could be defective but such was his disdain for beer not mass produced.

But Joe’s legacy is one, I believe, that has helped to ruin people’s taste for flavorful beers. By selling people a more watered down product, the popularity of light beer fools people into believing that it is a healthy product that is good for them. But like most, if not all, mass-produced beers it is loaded with chemicals. As Garret Oliver put it, mass produced beers are “highly engineered food product[s], the equivalent of Wonder Bread, Twinkies, and Kraft slices.” So the end result is that people’s perception is that light beer, virtually unflavored, is the taste of health, diet and trendiness. So actual real craft beer that has few, if any, added chemicals and is loaded with flavors is perceived as unhealthy, fat-creating and by extension uncool. This certainly won’t give craft beer’s paltry 3.5% market share much of a chance to rise.

So while I think regular Heineken is undrinkable swill, a Heineken Light will almost certainly be even worse, which is frankly quite hard to believe. That Heineken is perceived as a “premium” beer is yet another amazing coup for the propagandists. The millions they’ll spend to convince clueless America that Heineken Light is a really good idea will no doubt succeed in further damaging the quest to increase the demand for better beer.

Filed Under: Editorial, News Tagged With: Europe

O’Brien’s Pub Celebrates 12th Anniversary

January 18, 2006 By Jay Brooks

I got the following from Tom Nickel, iconoclastic owner of O’Briens Pub in San Diego and award-winning brewer at Oggi’s Pizza & Brewing:

O’Brien’s Pub is celebrating 12 amazing years as San Diego’s premier beer bar and you are all invited to the more than week long party. Jim O’Brien founded the pub in January of 1994 before there was Stone, AleSmith or Ballast Point. The pub served as a first account for Pizza Port, Oggi’s, AleSmith, Alpine and many other local breweries. It was also the first place in San Diego to serve Blind Pig IPA and Russian River. The pub has been an integral part of the good beer scene in San Diego. A big Thank You to everyone for creating such a great pub and beer community. Lindsey and I are thrilled to have been a part of the pub’s success for the last three years and we look forward to many more. The beer community in San Diego just keeps getting stronger and the beer just keeps getting better.

The anniversary specials begin tonight and continue through the end of the month.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Bars, California, San Diego

Scientists Look For Secrets of Foamy Beer

January 18, 2006 By Jay Brooks

From Beverage Daily, an interesting article about the search in barley proteins for the source of beer’s foam. It’s titled Scientists look for secrets of foamy beer.

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Science of Brewing

Bay Area Breweries Celebrate Ben Franklin’s 300th Birthday

January 17, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Four Bay Area breweries are participating in the brewing of Poor Richard’s Ale in honor of Benjamin Franklin’s 300th birthday, which is today, Tuesday, January 17. Today they’ll tap the specially designed recipe along with dozens of breweries across the nation. Check out what breweries in your area will also be pariticipating.

Bay Area Breweries Making Poor Richard’s Ale

Half Moon Bay Brewing
Magnolia Pub & Brewery
Steelhead Brewing – Burlingame
21st Amendment Brewery

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Bay Area, California

Avery Releases Mephistopheles’ Stout

January 16, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Adam Avery and the gang from Boulder, Colorado have announced the release of Mephistopheles’ Stout, the final installment in their Demons of Ale series. The terse press release had this to say about the new beer:

Mephistopheles is the crafty shape shifter, the second fallen angel. Amazingly complex, coal black, velvety and liqueurish, this demon has a bouquet of vine-ripened grapes, anise and chocolate covered cherries with flavors of rum-soaked caramelized dark fruits and a double espresso finish. 15%abv.

Cellarable for 10+ years.

Sounds tasty. I can’t wait to get my hands on a sample.

Filed Under: Beers Tagged With: Colorado, Press Release

Russian River Announces Valentine’s Day Beer

January 11, 2006 By Jay Brooks

This is just too deliciously perfect. Vinnie tells me his new Valentine’s Day beer will be called “Rejection.” Wait, it gets better. It will be a black ale. Ha ha ha ha ha ha. What a great idea. Finally, a reason to celebrate Valentine’s Day again, my least favorite holiday of the year.

Filed Under: Beers, Breweries, News Tagged With: California, Northern California, Seasonal Release

Pabst For Sale

November 30, 2003 By Jay Brooks

The San Antonio Business Journal is reporting that local company Pabst Brewing has “hired Merrill Lynch to facilitate a possible sale of the company.” Pabst CEO Brian Kovalchuck acknowledged that the New York financial powerhouse has already sent out a prospectus to potentially interested parties, who include breweries as well as “leveraged buyout firms.” With annual sales of around $575 million, Pabst is the fourth largest brewer in the country, despite owning no physical brewery and contracting their beers through Miller. They own almost thirty brand names, including Pabst Blue Ribbon, Old Style, Old Milwaukee, Lone Star, Schlitz, McSorely’s, Olympia, Stroh’s and Colt 45.

With PBR recently finding new life by currying retro favor with young people, it will be interesting to see who will be interested in buying the brand. If Anheuser-Busch hadn’t bought Rolling Rock earlier this year, I would have put them at the top of the list. But who knows, maybe they still might make a play for it. But I think the most obvious potential buyer, among brewers at least, is SABMiller, if for no other reason than they’ve been doing the contract brewing for a number of years and could use the shot in the arm of another popular label.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, Pabst

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