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Today Alcopops, Tomorrow Beer

August 27, 2007 By Jay Brooks

Join Together, another one of those pesky neo-prohibitionist groups, is still crowing about the California Board of Equalization‘s wrong-headed decision last week to tax FMB’s (flavored malt beverages, a.k.a alcopops) using the same schedule as spirits. This will mean, beginning in mid-2008, makers of FMBS will be required to pay about 25% more in taxes. Neo-Prohibitionists groups who pushed this issue believe that making alcopops more expensive will somehow reduce underage consumption.

As I’ve said before, it’s quite easy to see why the BOE would vote in favor of higher taxes, especially during a statewide budget crunch, but even at that it was a narrow 3-2 decision. Insiders present at the meeting tell me that the BOE hinted at al present that in ruling they way they did, they were giving all concerned parties a chance to take the issue to the legislature where the BOE made clear they believe it should be decided. I’ve heard an unconfirmed story already that the anti-alcohol Marin Institute has talked to the state speaker, fully expecting his support, only to be shut down in no uncertain terms. It’s no surprise we’ve haven’t heard that side of the story from them.

Knowing that makes it much harder to swallow Join Together characterizing the ruling as “groundbreaking.” Their headline, Alcopops are Liquor, Not Beer, Calif. Tax Board Rules, is misleading at best and an out and out lie at worst. The BOE did no such thing. They only ruled that alcopops should be “taxed” as spirits, not that they “are” spirits. A small point, perhaps, but I think illustrative of how willing these groups are to torture the truth and bend it to their will.

Speaking of lying, here another pernicious one:

Michael Scippa, advocacy director for the Marin Institute, told Join Together that up to 90 percent of the alcohol contained in alcopops is derived from distilled spirits, and that California law states that a beverage with any amount of detectable alcohol from such sources is considered a distilled product, not a beer product.

“Up until now, alcopop manufacturers have gotten away with a cynical manipulation of California’s alcoholic beverage laws, mischaracterizing their products – which derive most of their alcoholic content from distilled spirits – as though they were beer to permit them to be sold cheaply and broadly throughout the state,” said Scott Dickey, an attorney with the San Francisco-based Public Law Group, which provided free legal services to the campaign to change the alcopops classification. “The BOE’s decision is a big step forward in holding alcopop manufacturers accountable for this deception.”

That’s not true, they are malt beverages with flavoring added. Distilled spirits are not added and it is not where their “alcoholic content” is derived from. They are most closely related to beer, which is precisely why they they are called flavored malt beverages and why they have been taxed like beer. Their alcohol content is likewise about the same as the average beer. They are fermented like beer and then chemical flavoring compounds are added, which give FMBs their distinctive sweet, fruity essence. Unlike attorney Scott Dickey’s assertions, which in fact are mischaracterizations, FMBs are exactly what their name suggests, no one has deceived anyone.

When Diageo first presented Smirnoff Ice to me in my capacity as the beer buyer for Beverages & more, they were quite candid about their reasons for launching the new product. Since they were prohibited from advertising their brand in certain media and likewise not permitted to sell their brand in certain stores, at least in California, such as convenience stores, gas stations, etc. By making an alcoholic product that was not spirit-based, they could now do so and it would further allow them to promote, market and advertise the core brand of Smirnoff to a wider audience. I think the fantastic success of Smirnoff Ice, and their countless imitators, surprised Diageo as much as it delighted them. But it was created precisely NOT to be a spirit, and if they had used distilled spirits in its manufacture, that would have defeated its original purpose.

Unlike the assertion of Marin Institute executive director Bruce Lee Livingston, whose grasp on reality seems to be slipping, that “[f]or generations, Big Alcohol has evaded proper taxation on these products,” they have been taxed at the exact rate they should have been for what the product actually is. And as I pointed out previously, Smirnoff Ice was introduced in 2001 and a generation is about thirty years. Clearly math is not his strong suit.

Now I’m no fan of FMBs. I don’t like them. I don’t like the way they often subvert young people’s conversion to craft beer. From a purely business point of view, I understand why the parent companies have used them to build their brand awareness while creating new profits at the same time. But I have been hearing a disturbing number of people inside the brewing industry willing to throw them under the bus, short-shortsightedly failing to recognize that the attack on FMBs is not an end unto itself, but merely the first battle in a much longer war. Don’t believe me? Just wait, do nothing, and see what happens.

I have it on good authority that the next salvo from the Marin Institute will be to ask the legislature/BOE to reclassify all malt beverages over 6% abv as distilled spirits! That means any strong beer like Belgian tripels, dubbels, bocks and doppelbocks, barleywines and even some IPAs will all be considered distilled spirits for taxation. I’m sure they’ll be spinning it as an attack on malt liquor, but some of our most cherished styles of beers will fall under such a definition, making them either more expensive or economically unfeasible for the breweries to continue making them.

Distillation, of course, is a specific process for separating, in the case of liquids, different components with different boiling points. There are a few kinds of distilling, such as freeze distilling, pot distilling and reflux distilling, and each of them does roughly the same thing or yields similar results. Liquids distilled are separate and distinct from either beer or wine, of course, as the process deviates wildly at one point and the resulting spirits are generally much, much stronger than either. Types of distilled products include absinthe, bourbon, brandy, calvados, cognac, gin, ouzo, rum, schnapps, scotch, tequila, vodka, whisky (and whiskey) to name just a few of the more common examples. Other non-alcoholic or lethal products which are distilled are gasoline, kerosene and paraffin.

So trying to call strong beers distilled spirits is not really in keeping with reality. Spirits — and wine for that matter — is generally much more alcoholic than beer, so trying to paint even a 10% strong beer with the same broad brush as whisky is akin to trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. It just doesn’t work. But it really has nothing to do with reality — or concepts of fairness — but instead is the drawing of the next battle line in a war whose goal is another national prohibition. We have to be vigilant of these groups and what they’re trying to accomplish. It’s our very complacency and disorganized apathy that they’re counting on to succeed. You can color me as reactionary as you like, but no harm can come from committing ourselves now to defeating the well-organized campaign for another prohibition. If we succeed, life continues as before. But if we lose, we’ll have no beer to cry into. Don’t let that happen.

 

Filed Under: Editorial, News Tagged With: Business, California, Law, Prohibitionists

In Memory of Steve Harrison

August 26, 2007 By Jay Brooks

A memorial service for Steve Harrison was held at the Sierra Nevada Brewery Friday morning for employees and business associates and a family service took place earlier today at the Lakeside Pavilion at California Park in Chico. I attended the service at the brewery on Friday and it was a very moving tribute to Steve’s life. There was a slide show of photos from throughout Steve’s life, from childhood playing the background during the entire service. Several of Steve’s childhood friends from where he grew up in Woodland Hills, California told stories about him when he was younger. Then family, brewery employees, and friends from the brewing community did likewise. It was really nice to hear about so many different sides of Steve and it was great seeing how many people’s live Steve touched, mine included.

There is also an online guestbook you can sign at the Chico Enterprise-Record and another one at his funeral home website.

The following obituary is posted on the website for Harrison’s funeral home:

Steve was born June 24, 1951 at Travis Air Force Base, California to Haldon and Toni Harrison. After graduating from Taft High School in Woodland Hills, California, he enrolled at California State University, Northridge. He moved to Chico in 1976 to attend Chico State University where he graduated with a degree in anthropology.

While in college, Steve became the first employee of Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. He continued with the company for the next 27 years, most recently serving as Vice President. Steve’s role evolved from sales to a role blending the sales department with operations and production planning. For the past two years, Steve had been transitioning into retirement.

Steve was an avid cyclist, regularly joining friends on weekend rides throughout the North Valley, foothills, and mountains. He was a strong advocate for cycling in our community and a wonderful friend to his many cycling partners. He also enjoyed several foreign cycling trips with friends and family, most recently to Italy. He also loved to hike in Bidwell Park and the Sierra Nevadas.

Steve enjoyed a lifelong sense of curiosity and loved literature, fine films, and spirited conversation. He was devoted to the Chico community and appreciated its beauty, opportunities, and citizenry.

He was intensely interested in politics and was committed to progressive causes related to social justice, environmental sustainability, smart growth, economic opportunity, and universal health care.

Steve is survived by his loving wife, best friend, and cycling partner, Linda Zorn; his father, Haldon Harrison, of Culver City, California; his mother and step-father, Toni and Jack Gardner of Pittsburgh, PA; his brother, Hugh, sister-in-law, Annie, and niece, Nicole Haskins, of Venice, California; his sister, Kate Harrison and her partner, Jim Hendry, of Berkeley, California; and several step-siblings.

Steve enriched the lives of all those with whom he shared himself, worked, and biked. His good humor, companionship, helpfulness to others, and social commitment will be greatly missed.

Donations in his honor may be made to the Steve Harrison Fund, which will be used to promote environmental sustainability and alternative energy projects. Donations may be sent to Newton-Bracewell Chico Funeral Home of Chico, which is handling arrangements.

It’s hard to put into words the importance Steve had to the success of Sierra Nevada Brewing and the craft beer industry as a whole. He was among the early pioneers of our fledgling segment of the beer industry. He was a tireless champion of small breweries both out in front and behind the scenes, such as in his role as President of the California Small Brewers Association. He will be greatly missed. Please join me in drinking a toast to Steve’s memory this evening. Any craft beer will do, but if you can manage a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, so much the better.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: California, Northern California

A Mammoth Time In Mammoth Lakes

August 23, 2007 By Jay Brooks

Earlier this month, the family and I drove the five plus hours to Mammoth Lakes, California, which is on the other side of the Sierras, near Mono Lake. It’s a bit of a trek to get there, especially with unruly toddlers in the back seat, but, in the end, well worth the trouble. If you’re a rock freak like I am, the place is just beautiful with all sort of alien landscapes with gorgeous views and places to explore. But the real reason we were in town was for the 12th annual Mammoth Festival of Beers & Bluesapalooza. This was my first time to this festival, but it’s won’t be my last. If you can manage to get yourself to this remote location in the seductive resort town of Mammoth Lakes, by all means go. This year there were over fifty craft brewers in attendance. But as great as the music is and as great as the beer festival is, be sure to save yourself some time to see the natural wonders that surround this wilderness area. There are parks galore with countless hiking trails, natural hot springs, volcanic remnants and, of course, Mono Lake. Beer, blues and Mother Nature. What more could you ask for of a weekend?

Arne Johnson and Shane Aldrich, both from Marin Brewing.

Brewer Chuck Silva from Green Flash Brewing.

“Crazy Dave” Heist from Hoptown Brewing.

For more photos from this year’s Mammoth Lakes Festival of Beers & Bluesapalooza, visit the photo gallery.
 

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: California, Festivals, Northern California, Photo Gallery

Steve Harrison’s Body Found

August 16, 2007 By Jay Brooks

The body of Sierra Nevada Brewing Vice-President Steve Harrison was found earlier today, around 4:15 p.m., in the Sacramento River, by a local resident who has helping been with the search on his Wave Runner since last week. Roughly two hours later, the local sheriff’s deputies recovered Harrison’s body, which had been caught on a snag in spot in the river known as the washout near Scotty’s Boat Landing, about half a mile from where his blue Toyota Prius had been discovered next to the river. Harrison had been missing since last Tuesday, August 7. The body has been turned over to the Butte County Coroner’s Office for an autopsy.

My heart goes out to his wife, Linda, and the rest of Steve’s family, not to mention all the close friends and colleagues at the brewery that he’d been working with since it began in 1979. The brewing community has lost one of its most influential and important members. This is very sad day for all of us.
 

Filed Under: News Tagged With: California, Northern California

Collaborating With the Collaborators

August 15, 2007 By Jay Brooks

Without diminishing all of the great beer dinners I’ve attended this year, I think I’m anticipating this one more keenly than any dinner all year. I’ll have returned home the following day from “Hop School” and will be fairly itching for hoppy beers. How could I do better than this? Beer Chef Bruce Paton’s next beer dinner will feature both Adam Avery, from Avery Brewing in Boulder, Colorado, and Vinnie Cilurzo, from Russian River Brewing in Santa Rosa, California.

It will be a four-course dinner and well worth the $85 price of admission. It will be held at the Cathedral Hill Hotel on Friday, August 31, 2007, beginning with a reception at 6:30 p.m. Call 415.674.3406 for reservations by August 23, though sooner will increase your odds of getting a seat at the table.

 

The Menu:

 

Reception: 6:30 PM

Beer Chef’s Hors D’Oeuvre

Beer: Avery IPA and Blind Pig IPA

Dinner: 7:30 PM

First Course

Torchon of Foie Gras with Egg Nog Brioche Toast and Vanilla Poached Stone Fruit

Beer: Avery Salvation and Russian River Salvation

Second Course:

Pan Roasted Skate Filet with Ginger Butter and Spicy Cilantro Pesto

Beer: Avery The Majarajah and Russian River Pliny the Elder

Third Course:

Olive Oil Poached Breast of Duck with Confit “Shepherds Pie”, Corn Fig Relish and Orange Gastrique

Beer: Avery The Reverend and Russian River Damnation Batch 23

Fourth Course:

Chocolate Collaboration

Beer: Avery Fourteen and Russian River Toronado Anniversary Ale / Collaboration Toast

 

 
8.31

Dinner with the Brewmasters: Avery & Russian River

Cathedral Hill Hotel, 1101 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco, California
415.674.3406 [ website ]

 

Filed Under: Food & Beer Tagged With: Announcements, California, San Francisco

California Redefines Distilled Spirits

August 14, 2007 By Jay Brooks

California’s Board of Equalization took the surprising move today (by a one vote margin) of redefining distilled spirits using some very odd language. The new definition, which takes effect in July 2008, was re-written in an effort by neo-prohibitionist groups to tax FMB’s (flavored malt beverages, a.k.a. alcopops or malternatives) at a higher rate under the pretense of keeping them out of the hands of children. The idea that by making them more expensive they’ll be less attractive to younger and underage drinkers is, of course, prima facie ridiculous. I can understand the state’s angle because it will produce more revenue for them, but that it will help cure underage drinking is pure fantasy. California State Controller John Chiang went so far as to say “taxing flavored malt beverages as liquor will also help reduce their popularity with young people by simply pricing the product out of their reach.” Tell that to the sixteen-year old punks driving around Marin County in new BMW’s that they won’t be able to afford Smirnoff Ice anymore. What utter hogwash.

Even if I accept such tortured logic, why should everybody — older adults included — be punished with higher prices and why should those companies arbitrarily now have to pay significantly higher taxes? I think McDonald’s happy meals are destructive to the health of our nation’s youth. Should we charge McDonald’s a health tax on every happy meal so they’re so expensive no one will buy them anymore, for the good of our children? I think Coke is rotting the teeth and insides of millions of kids. Should a bottle of Coca-cola cost $5.00 to compensate for the health risks and keep children from buying them? Would it then be fair that the rest of us have to spend $5, too, to buy a coke and a smile? Why should every product we don’t want kids to have be more expensive for the rest of us just so they may not be able to afford it? It just doesn’t make sense. But that’s effectively the logic at work here. Is that really how we want to orient our society?

Here is the new language:

Regulation 2558. Distilled Spirits. Define distilled spirits to include any alcoholic beverage, except wine, which contains 0.5 percent or more alcohol by volume from flavors or ingredients containing alcohol obtained from the distillation of fermented agricultural products. (emphasis added.)

What’s troubling about this decision is that this new definition could — which means probably will — be interpreted to include some beer aged in oak barrels as well as certain other craft beers as distilled spirits. If subject to the much higher spirits tax, it will make them either prohibitively expensive or, more likely, effectively force brewers to stop making them altogether. And that would effectively quash some of the most innovative beers being produced today.

According to people who attended the hearing, it appears likely that this issue may be challenged in the courts and/or be dealt with through the legislature. Neo-prohibitionist groups, of course, are already claiming victory and sending out celebratory press releases, such as the one I received from the Marin Institute, who referred to the votes as “historic” and applauded the “strong leadership” of California’s state controller John Chiang. Apparently they regard a strong leader as someone who does their bidding.

Here’s some more back-patting from the press release:

“This is an enlightened step forward in controlling underage consumption of alcohol,” said Bruce Lee Livingston, MPP, Executive Director of Marin Institute. “For generations, Big Alcohol has evaded proper taxation on these products. Now, the state will benefit and the health and well-being of our youth will be improved.”

I find it curious that they even use the word “enlightened,” since that brings to mind the Enlightenment, a time that couldn’t be more removed from the sort of tactics neo-prohibitionists are using now. To enlighten, means to “to give intellectual or spiritual light to” something, or in older parlance to simply “shed light upon.” Trying to remove alcohol from society in order to impose ones own morals on everyone else is the very opposite of enlightened.

Then there’s his “[f]or generations, Big Alcohol has evaded proper taxation on these products.” (my emphasis.) A generation is generally considered to be about thirty years. FMBs first appeared a little over ten years ago, fifteen at most. And they really didn’t become all that popular until the introduction of Smirnoff Ice, which was in 2001. That was only six years ago, not quite the at least sixty years that Chiang’s “generations” implies.

“Public policy trumped corporate-influenced politics today,” said Michele Simon, Director of Research and Policy at Marin Institute. That’s one way of looking at it, I suppose. Another is ‘fear mongering moral crusaders hijacked democracy in an effort to advance their own narrow agenda by pretending to care about the welfare of children and trumped common sense and reason today.’ It’s all how you choose to spin it.

Now personally I’m no fan of FMBs, either, and I also think they subvert young people from discovering the joys of craft beer, but I don’t believe making them more expensive is in any way useful. If the true goal of the neo-prohibitionists really is to keep them out of the hands of children (as they claim), a more effective strategy might be to keep kids from drinking sweet soda and developing a fondness for sweeter drinks in the first place. Then alcopops would not have the same appeal for them as they get older. Plus it would have the added benefit of keeping kids healthier by reducing their intake of sugar, high fructose syrup and other harmful chemicals in today’s soda-pop. But I don’t think this brouhaha really is about the children, but rather is anti-alcohol merely using children as a justification that’s easier to sell than another prohibition.

And that’s why I’m particularly troubled by the vague language of the new definition. Because I believe this is just another first step in a larger and more sinister effort not just to control children’s access to FMBs, but to restrict access to all alcohol. Today it’s FMBs, tomorrow … who knows what. So the enemy of my enemy is my friend in this case. If it was just about the taxes I wouldn’t like it, but at least I’d understand it. The way the neo-prohibitionist groups have been pushing against FMBs makes it obvious that it’s about more than just money. That they’ve persuaded the state of California to take this step and play into their hands is quite disturbing, to say the least.

 

Filed Under: Editorial, News Tagged With: Business, California, Ingredients, Law, Prohibitionists

Toronado 20th Anniversary Celebration Concludes

August 13, 2007 By Jay Brooks

After the 21st Amendment beer dinner, I hightailed it back to the Toronado where the party had kicked into high gear.

It was this kind of night, with all manner of wonderful beers, many of them — at least 22 — had been made especially for the Toronado and that evening.

Many special bottles were opened and flowing that night. What a wonderful four days filled with friends, food and the fermented.

 

For many more photos from the second half of the Toronado 20th Anniversary Celebration, visit the photo gallery.
 

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: California, Other Events, Photo Gallery, San Francisco

Funkmaster Sully Rocks the House

August 13, 2007 By Jay Brooks

In the middle of the Toronado party Saturday night, across town, a beer dinner took place at the Cathedral Hill Hotel with the beers of 21st Amendment and brewmaster Shaun O’Sullivan. Bruce put on his usual excellent panoply of flavors, paired to perfection with 21st Amendment’s flavorful beers.

Brewmaster Shaun O’Sullivan, in great spirits after the dinner, with beer chef Bruce Paton.

For more photos from the 21st Amendment Beer Dinner, visit the photo gallery.
 

Filed Under: Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: California, Photo Gallery, San Francisco

Toronado 20th Anniversary Celebration Begins

August 13, 2007 By Jay Brooks

My friend Dave Keene bought the Toronado bar on lower Haight in 1989, transforming it — and much of the Bay Area’s drinkers along with it — into the premiere beer bar in the city and one of the top beer bars in the country. That’s not so much opinion as fact, confirmed by the countless tribute beers and people in the beer community who flew in from all over the country to celebrate the Toronado’s 20th anniversary this Saturday.

10, 20, 30: Dave Keene (center) was celebrating his 20th, flanked by Don Younger (on the left), whose bar the Horse Brass in Portland celebrated its 30th anniversary earlier this year, and Chris Black (on the right), whose Denver, Colorado bar, The Falling Rock, celebrated its 10th anniversary in June.

Inside, the Toronado was packed to the gills with well-wishers and beer fans.

For more photos from the first half of the Toronado 20th Anniversary Celebration, visit the photo gallery.
 

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: California, Other Events, Photo Gallery, San Francisco

Bistro IPA Festival 2007

August 12, 2007 By Jay Brooks

The 10th annual IPA Festival at the Bistro in Hayward took place on Saturday, August 11, 2007. There were 54 different IPAs at the festival. The weather was perfect and because of the Toronado anniversary there were a number of beer people from around the country in town who also came over to Hayward.

Outside the festival with Publican Judy Ashworth, Former San Andreas Brewing owner Bill Millar, Stone Brewery’s brewmaster Mitch Steele and Bistro owner Vic Krajl.

A lot of beer people — brewers, publicans, salesmen, etc. — were in attendance at the festival.
 

For more photos from this year’s Bistro IPA Festival, visit the photo gallery.
 

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: Bay Area, California, Festivals, Photo Gallery

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