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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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London Trip: Day 2, Fuller’s Brewery Tour

January 25, 2007 By Jay Brooks

On Thursday, our second day in London, we had a nice private tour of Fuller’s Griffin Brewery in the Chiswick area of London.

The Griffin Brewery in Chiswick, London

The “Old Copper,” part of the old brewery.

After the tour we isited the Hock Cellar, where we sampled beer made at the brewery. Here brewers Shaun O’Sullivan from 21st Amendment Brewery and Christian Kazakoff from Triple Rock Brewery pose behind the bar with our tour guide Derek Prentice.

For the full brewery tour, visit the photo gallery.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Europe, Great Britain, Photo Gallery

London Trip: Day 1

January 24, 2007 By Jay Brooks

Tuesday I left for a short trip to London along with brewers Shaun O’Sullivan (21st Amendment) and Christian Kazakoff (Triple Rock) and beer fans Motor and Thomas. Because of the time change, our flight was effectively a red eye and we arrived in the U.K. the following morning around seven in the morning. We had no specific plans for the day, apart from some drinking and trying to stay awake as long as possible in order to fight our jet lag.

London had received a rare bit of snow and our tube ride in from the airport was a winter wonderland.

The snow was so unexpected, there were still flowers in the parks.

Christian, Shaun, me and Motor in the lobby of our hotel in Russell Square.

We went for a walk down to the Borough Market and tried a brewpib there, the Brew Wharf Yard. They only had one house beer on, the Wharf Rebel, which was, I’m sorry to say, very dissapointing. But they did have all of the Meantime beers and a good selection of imported Belgian and American beers.

The Anchor pub next to the Thames was a bit of a tourist bar but in a great location and with a decent selection.

By far the best pub in the area was the Market Porter, which had great atmosphere and an even better beer selection.

Though ridicuously the Market Porter also carried Guinness Extra Cold, whatever that means. Actually, according to the Guinness website:

Using the same classic recipe as Guinness Draught, Guinness Draught Extra Cold passes through our Coldflow supercooler en route to the bar. The result is a GUINNESS® Draught that’s served 3°C cooler. With an initial malt and caramel flavour, cooler Guinness Draught Extra Cold finishes with less bitterness than classic Guinness Draught beer. Chilly, isn’t it?

Guinness Draught Extra Cold is best served at around 3.5°C (38.3°F) — that’s 2.5°C (4.5°F) or so colder than Guinness Draught.

We did our own taste test of Guinness vs. Guinness Extra Cold — GEC is in the foreground. Not surprisingly, there was absolutely no difference. As suspected, it was merely a marketing gimmick.

Next, it was off to the Tate Modern, which was only a short walk away.

The highlight was probably the The Unilever Series by Carsten Höller. It was a series of amazing slides that you take from the second, third and even the fifth floor.

The slides wind around a central pole.

There’s solid on the bottom half but glass on the upper half so you can see where you’re going.

You sit on and put your feet into a canvas towel to ride down the tube. Here Shaun O’Sullivan enters the fifth floor slide.

Shaun crosses his arms and lets go.

Here Christian Kazakoff somes out at the bottom after his five-story ride.

A better look at the canvas towel as Christian dismounts the slide.

Afterwards, we went to the Blackfriar, an absolutely beautiful pub steeped in ornate details and history.

An old sign out front.

Unfortunately, inside — though also quite ornate and stunningly beautiful — it smelled of sulfur and sewage, as if the pipes had recently backed up. The people inside either didn’t seem to notice or had grown used to it. But none of us could stay inside for very long and so we kept moving.

We had a late lunch at the Lamb, near our hotel. The beer was decent, but the food could have been better. Overall, it was a little disappointing to see that most pubs looked great outside and in, but carried a somewhat narrow range of beers that differed only according to what pub company owned them. There were very few true free houses. And while I might argue that their beers, and especially the popular ones, were still real ales and much better overall then the beers that dominate our bars, there was still a lack of diversity found in many average Bay Area bars.

For the rest of the evening, we walked from pub to pub in an effort to stay up as long as possible. We had a pint at the Lamb & Flag and Ye Grapes before ending up at the White Horse for the rest of the evening.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Europe, Great Britain, Photo Gallery

Off to the White Horse

January 23, 2007 By Jay Brooks

The Bulletin will be on vacation for the next week, returning on Tuesday January 30. I’ll be jumping the pond this morning to attend the Old Ale Festival at London’s White Horse on Parson’s Green. This is supposedly cellerman Mark Dorber’s last year at the pub, so I’m glad I’ll have a chance to see him there. It should be a great time. I’m pretty sure they’ll be photos and stories here next week.

The White Horse in London.

Here’s the beer list for the two-day festival:

British Beers:

Adnams Tally Ho 7.0%
Ballard’s Wassail 6.0%
Bass Museum No 1 10.5%
Bass Museum P2 Imperial Stout 8.0%
Bass Museum Worthington White Shield 5.6%
Broughtons Old Jock 6.7%
Caledonian Santa’s Little Helper 3.7%
Cottage Norman’s Conquest 7.0%
Dark Star Dark Star Original 5.0%
Dark Star Imperial Stout 10.5%
Exmoor’s Beast 6.6%
Fuller’s Old Winter Ale 5.3%
Fuller’s London Porter 5.4%
Gale’s Winter Brew 4.2%
Harvey’s Old Ale 3.6%
Hogs Back A Over T 9.0%
Lee’s Harvest ale 11.5%
Lee’s Moonraker 7.5%
Mauldon’s Black Adder 5.3%
O’Hanlons Port Stout 4.8%
Oakham’s Oblivion 5.7%
Orkney’s Skull Splitter 8.5%
RCH’s Old Slug Porter 4.5%
Reepham Velvet Sweet Stout 4.5%
Robinson’s Old Tom 8.5%
Roosters Body Warmer 5.0%
Roosters Jaks 3.9%
Theakston’s Old Peculier 5.7%
Thornbridge Jaipur 5.9%
Titanic Stout 4.5%
Uley’s Old Spot 5.0%
Woodforde’s Head Cracker 7.0%
Young’s Winter Warmer 5.0%

Belgian Beers:

Abbaye des rocs Speciale Noel 9.0%
Binchoise Special Noel 9.0%
Brigand Christmas 9.0%
Bush Noel 12.0%
Cantillon Lambiek 5.0%
Corsendonck Christmas 8.5%
Geants Saison Voisin 6.0%
Gouden Carolus Christmas 10.5%
Peter Lieven Bruin 6.5%
St Bernardus Tripple 6.7%
St Bernardus Prior 7.6%
St Bernardus Abt 12 10.5%
St Feuillien Noel 9.0%
Troubador Obscura 9.0%

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Announcements, Europe, Great Britain, Websites

The Duchesse

January 16, 2007 By Jay Brooks

duchesse
Jon Bonné, the new big cheese at the San Francisco Chronicle’s wine section, had a little blurb in the Sipping News about a wonderful beer, the Duchesse de Bourgogne, imported by D&V International.

Bonné claims it’s a beer for wine lovers, though I assume he means others might enjoy it, too. His pairing suggestions are intriguing, matching it with “rich cream dishes (with mussels, for instance) or a firm, bold-flavored cheese like an aged Gouda.” He also mentions the City Beer store — 1168 Folsom (at 7th), 415.503.1033 — as a place to buy it, and it’s good to see them get some love. I could make a big deal out of Bonné’s selling as a beer for cork dorks, but I’m hoping what he’s trying to do is get people who might not otherwise try a sophisticated beer to try one, and because I’m trying to give him the benefit of the doubt after his gracious response to my earlier criticism about one of the first beer pieces he green-lighted after coming to the Chronicle.

Duchesse de Bourgogne is a favorite of mine, as I love the style — Flanders Red Ale — and I usually order one if I find it on a beer list. I was thrilled to see it in California beginning last year. It’s brewed at the Brouwerij Verhaeghe, located in Vichte, which is a ancient castle and farm in West Flanders, Belgium. By the way, it’s pronounced “Doo-shay.”

duchesse

Beer aside, the history of the Duchesse is fascinating. Her anglicized name was Mary of Burgundy, though she was born in Brussels on February 13, 1457, the only child of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, and his wife Isabella of Bourbon. Needless to say she was quite a catch, especially after her father died in battle (at the siege of Nancy, not a particularly awful sounding name) in 1477, when she was nineteen. Louis XI of France tried to take Burgundy and the Low Countries for himself but was frustrated when Mary signed the “Great Privilege,” by which she gave Flanders, Brabant, Hainaut, and all of Holland autonomous rule (leaving for herself the remainder of the Low Countries, Artois, Luxembourg, and Franche-Comté). She then married Archduke Maximilian of Austria, who was later the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian I, and part of the Hapsburg Austrian dynasty. This sparked a long-standing dispute over the Low Countries between France and the Hapsburg family.

mary-ob3 mary-ob2
Two portraits of Mary of Burgundy, the Duchesse de Bourgogne.

One of Mary’s favorite hobbies was falconing, which was popular among royals in the day. Falconry is basically training and hunting using a falcon. While engaged in this pursuit, in 1482, Mary’s horse tripped, tossing her onto the ground where the horse then landed on top of her, breaking her back. A few days later she died. Mary was only 25. The beer label’s portrait pays homage to her love of falconry and her ultimate death because of it.

Her young son Philip became heir after her death, though Maximilian was in charge until he reached adulthood. King Louis forced Maximilian to sign the Treaty of Arras the same year, and it gave Franche Comté and Artois to France. But Philip was a virtual prisoner until 1485, and then it took Max another eight years to take back control of their lands in the Low Countries. The Treaty of Senlis, in 1493, finally established peace in the area, but Burgundy and Picardy remained French.

So during her short life, Mary had such great impact on European politics that they can be felt even now in the present. So it’s quite appropriate that she have so wonderful a beer that bears her name and her portrait. It’s a fitting legacy.

The description of the beer from the importer:

The Duchesse de Bourgogne from Brouwerij Verhaeghe is the traditional Flemish red ale. This refreshing ale is matured in oak casks; smooth with a rich texture and interplay of passion fruit, and chocolate, and a long, dry and acidic finish. After the first and secondary fermentation, the beer goes for maturation into the oak barrels for 18 months. The final product is a blend of younger 8 months old beer with 18 months old beer. The average age of the Duchesse de Bourgogne before being bottled is 12 months.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Belgium, Europe, History, Mainstream Coverage

Bud & Bud: Now They’re Buds?

January 14, 2007 By Jay Brooks

+ = ?

I saw this last Monday but was too busy with deadlines for paying gigs to do anything more than drop my jaw in amazement at the news. To say I was surprised would be an understatement. The vigor with which these two companies have battled one another is legendary. For them to unceremoniously bury the hatchet — and not into each other’s back — even in just the U.S. market defies logic. I can see why Anheuser-Busch would want the deal. To have a Bud with flavor and another import that’s been selling well, with even greater potential, is a no brainer for them.

But why Budějovický Budvar would be so eager is an entirely different matter. I have a hard time fathoming that it was simply the profit motive and the tantalizing carrot of making a killing here in the U.S. that drove their decision. Not to mention all of the people this move — along with the earlier InBev agreement — have put on the unemployment line. The very people who built all of these brands into ones that A-B would be interested in poaching are now left out in the cold, all of their hard work for naught. Many of the ones I know personally are great people, too, so it seems remarkably unfair.

I guess I just don’t want to believe that the principles Budvar has been arguing for so vehemently could be set aside so easily just for a wad of cash. There are currently something like 100 lawsuits going on in 30 countries around the globe over the brand names Bud, Budvar and Budweiser. A-B just lost an appeal in Portugal, so the disputes between the two companies are far from over. And generally speaking A-B has been the aggressor in a majority of the cases, at least as far as I’ve seen.

Here in the U.S., and other countries where A-B has prevailed in court decisions, Budvar, Budweis and Budweiser are labeled Czechvar, conveying none of the heritage of a beer brewed in the town of České Budějovice, which in German is Budweis. A-B has publicly acknowledged countless times that it was their inspiration for the beer they named Budweiser in 1876. Disputes began a century ago and have not subsided up through the present time. Even A-B’s press release acknowledges as much.

After nearly a century of disagreements in certain parts of the world over rights to the Budweiser name for their beers, Anheuser-Busch and Czech brewer Budejovicky Budvar have formed a historic alliance in which Anheuser-Busch will become the U.S. importer of Czechvar Premium Czech Lager, the two brewers jointly announced today.

The agreement gives Czechvar, currently sold in 30 states, access to Anheuser-Busch’s marketing and sales expertise and wide-reaching U.S. distribution network. It gives Anheuser-Busch another European import as part of an aggressive push into high-end beer categories that has led to alliances with Grolsch, Tiger, Kirin and most recently InBev, which added Stella Artois, Beck’s, Bass Pale Ale and other beers to its import portfolio.

The agreement does not impact existing litigation or trademark disputes between the two brewers in other countries, and they have agreed the partnership cannot be used to support either side in any trademark cases.

“After years of differences, this is a meaningful step for two great brewers to form a relationship that is good for both of our businesses,” said August A. Busch IV, president and chief executive officer of Anheuser-Busch Cos. Inc. “For Anheuser-Busch, it also represents an opportunity to enhance our import portfolio with a super-premium Czech import. Working with our family of wholesalers, we look forward to introducing Czechvar to a new audience of beer lovers.”

“At the same time, the agreement represents a historical turning point between our companies. We have managed to move away from discussions between lawyers and toward a practical dialog, which is going to be beneficial to both sides. Our corporation has therefore gained the best importer in the USA,” added Budejovicky Budvar’s CEO, Jiří Boček.

The agreement was effective Jan. 5. Terms were not disclosed.

Hmm. When a brewery with so much reason to feel a deep-seated animosity toward the world’s largest beer company can make nice for a fistful of ducats, what does that mean for the rest of the world’s breweries trying to sell their products here. Between the InBev brands (like Stella Artois), Grolsch, Tiger, Kirin, and now what many people refer to as “the real Budweiser,” Czechvar, this will make it increasingly difficult for other imported beers — and especially the smaller brands — to find a willing distributor to carry their products. Certainly no Bud distributor who wants to stay in Augie’s good graces would carry a non-A-B import. And that clutters the remaining distributors, especially where there’s only one other house that carries both Coors and Miller. Few distributors can carry everything presented them and that means less diversity in their territories, more so in states where it’s difficult or impossible for companies to self-distribute.

As usual, the losers will be you and me when we try to find that obscure import like Westmalle Tripel or Urthel Hop-It. Every time the highly efficient behemoth A-B distribution network adds another “official” beer to its portfolio, the available beers across the country become increasingly the same. If it keeps up like this, the only remaining diversity you’ll see at the local grocery store will be completely illusory. They’ll all be owned or have exclusive distribution agreements with a very small number of companies. And that will make it nearly impossible for a newcomer, whether an imported brewery or a local craft brewer, to find a spot on the shelf.

Filed Under: Editorial, News Tagged With: Business, Europe, International, National, Strange But True

Beef & Beer

January 14, 2007 By Jay Brooks

There’s a delicious sounding recipe for “Carbonnade of Beef” in today’s Belfast Telegraph. Irish cookery expert [their description] Paula McIntyre makes her dish sound tantalizingly good. I defy you to read it and not start salivating.

Filed Under: Food & Beer Tagged With: Europe

Bulgarian Boza for Bigger Breasts

January 14, 2007 By Jay Brooks

There are probably as many early forms of beer as there are people who made them. Every nomadic tribe and early civilization had their own at one point or another. A few of them are even still around today, having changed little, making up an important tradition in pockets of the world. Most use varied and locally available ingredients, rarely hops and are an important part of their heritage.

One of these malt beverages is “Boza,” originally brewed in Babylonia and Egypt 5-6,000-years ago and in Mesopotamia as long ago as 8-9,000-years ago. There is also speculation that our word “booze” comes from this drink. Traditionally, Boza is made with millet but local variations also use maize (Turkey), wheat (Ethiopia), rice meal (Turkmenistan) or flour (Albania). In Bulgaria they use millet, one of the earliest used cereal grains and the one used in the original Bozas. Today, it is wildly popular throughout Eastern Europe and the Ottoman areas. It’s also quite low in alcohol, around 1% abv.

It appears to be fairly easy to make at home, too. There are several links on preparing homemade Boza, such as at Yogurtland, My Bulgaria, and Bulgarian Food.

But a story in Ananova, a news service for mobile phone delivery, is decidely more titillating. Apparently Bulgaria’s recent membership in the EU brings welcome tax relief on customs duties on Boza. Hundreds and thousands of establishments all over Europe are now starting to stock Boza, at least in part because Boza is believed to make women’s breasts grow. I couldn’t make this up if I wanted to. According to Ananova, “European men are flocking to Bulgaria to buy ‘breast-boosting beer’ after EU accession led to customs duties on the drink being abolished.”

The article continues:

They are said to be keen for their wives and girlfriends to benefit from its reported ability to make women’s breasts grow.

Constantin Barbu crossed the Danube from Romania to buy Boza in the Bulgarian border town of Ruse.

He said: “I’ve bought a case for my wife to try out. I really hope I see an improvement.”

Given our nation’s obsession with large breasts, I’m surprised it’s not available here. It’s got to be cheaper than silicon implants.

Filed Under: Just For Fun, News Tagged With: Europe, Humor

CAMRA’s Christmas Pairing Suggestions

December 13, 2006 By Jay Brooks

The Campaign for Real Ale, Britain’s advocacy group for cask-conditioned real ales, has made several suggestions for food and beer pairings to use with Christmas dinner. Here are their more general suggestions, too, for pairing beer and food.

Filed Under: Food & Beer, News Tagged With: Europe, Great Britain

Ancient Beer Bottles Found

December 12, 2006 By Jay Brooks

From today’s Publican, a number of old beer bottles were found in the vaults of Worthington’s White Shield brewery in Burton-upon-Trent in Staffordshire, now owned by Molson Coors. Some of the bottles are over 130 years old. The oldest bottle is 137-years old, bottled in 1869. That beer is Harry Ratcliff’s Ale and was brewed to commemorate a son being born into the Ratcliff family, which was later part of the Bass, Ratcliff & Gretton breweries in the late 1800s.

Above, Worthington White Shield’s head brewer, Steve Wellington. “It was always rumoured that there were some vintage beers on site but uncovering such an interesting collection is fantastic. I believe this is one of the most exciting and unique discoveries ever made in British brewing.”
 

 

From the Publican:

Dr George Philliskirk, beer expert and Chief Executive of the Beer Academy comments: “This discovery is remarkable, especially as the oldest beer of all dates back to 1869 and tastes so fresh, and with such attractive ripe plum and honeyed flavours. This demonstrates the potential for vintage beers to be taken seriously – maybe even being worthy of a special section in wine lists at Britain’s top restaurants.”

As a result of this find, Worthington’s in conjuction with CAMRA, is sponsoring a contest to find the oldest unopened bottle of beer in the U.K. The winner “will be invited to the White Shield Brewery in Burton upon Trent to brew their very own vintage.”

Below are some more photos of the bottles found in Worthington’s cellars:

 

 

Filed Under: Just For Fun, News Tagged With: Europe, Great Britain, History

This Is Belgium

December 10, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Each year the Belgian Post Office does a series of commemorative stamps celebrating some aspect of Belgian society or heritage called “This is Belgium.” This year’s set honors the food and drink of Belgium.

As you can see, of the ten stamps in the series, two are beers: Orval and 3 Fonteinen Gueuze.

And here’s a larger look at the Orval stamp:

Filed Under: Just For Fun Tagged With: Belgium, Europe

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