By Jay Brooks
The date I received the press release for Stone Brewing’s arrogant Bastard Oxide Energy Ale — April 1 — was already a clue. But the press release and website was done with such a straight face and so professionally that it did give one pause; at least enough to read on, if for no other reason than to confirm that it was a hoax.
The real kickers came in the list of ingredients:
And the warnings:
Pretty funny stuff. Good joke Greg.
By Jay Brooks
Widmer Brothers Brewing, whose flagship Hefeweizen redefined that style for America, also makes many, many other excellent beers. And one of those, Broken Halo IPA, was their spring release last year. One of their most successful seasonal releases, demand for Broken Halo continued long after the seasonal cycle ended last summer. Widmer Brothers announced yesterday that it would be fixing that and making Broken Halo IPA a year-round addition to their portfolio.
From the press release:
Widmer Brothers Brewing announced today the launch of Broken Halo IPA, the result of a tried-and-true recipe from the company’s seasoned brewmasters. Broken Halo will be distributed to select West Coast bars, taverns and finer grocery retailers beginning the week of April 3, 2006. Inspired by the traditional India Pale Ale (IPA) recipe originating in 19th Century England, Broken Halo contains higher concentrations of hops and alcohol than typical beer, and will be ceremoniously launched the same week in history when Prohibition was repealed for beer on April 7, 1933.
“I can’t think of a better way to celebrate 73 years of the freedom to enjoy beer than with our new Broken Halo IPA,” says Kurt Widmer, co-founder of Widmer Brothers Brewing. “We saw the first signs of this IPA’s success when we offered it as a spring seasonal Ale, then as a Brewmasters’ Release recipe. With so many people at bars and taverns requesting it, the obvious choice was to listen and bring it back. Rob and I are really proud of the result and I think craft beer lovers will really enjoy it, too.”
Broken Halo uses Cascade and Columbus hops for balanced bitterness, flavor and aroma. Bitterness is 45 IBU, alcohol by volume is 6% and original gravity is 14.25 degrees plato.
The label for Widmer’s new Broken Halo IPA.
By Jay Brooks
I’m walking through my local independent grocery store this afternoon, trying to get everything on my list when I realize I’m in the beer aisle. Old habits die hard, so I survey what’s there and notice a beer I’ve not heard of before: Wild Hop Lager. I pick up the six-pack carrier and pull out a bottle. Green Valley Brewing Company? Ever heard of them? Me neither. Now I’m only human but it’s not often that I’m stumped. I don’t usually run into completely new breweries I’ve never heard of. So I take a closer look at the packaging and read everything on the label. It’s supposedly organic certified by the UDSA? But in the back of my head I’m thinking it was a different organization that certified organic status. Didn’t I read that somewhere in connection with Wolaver’s a few years ago? The packaging looks good, almost too good. It’s slick and well done and even uses printed crowns, unusual for a start-up brewery. I’m becoming suspicious, I can’t even say why at this point. There’s a web address on the carrier, but there’s no brewery information on the label. No address, apart from Fairfield, California. Uh-oh. I pull a bottle out of the carrier again and examine it more closely. Only one more clue, but it’s a compelling one. There at the bottom of the bottom, on the left hand side, is a freshness date. That’s also a curious thing for a new brewery to have on their label. I feel like Sherlock Holmes and things aren’t adding up. But I’ve got a hunch, and it’s a pretty good one, too, I think, as I head home to check it out.
When I get home, I type in the website URL and wait for it to load, which doesn’t take too long. It has an age verification check, and it’s feeding my hunch, too. How many small breweries have those? The webpage itself is only one page, with no clickable links anywhere, just a message “Check back soon for more on Wild Hop Lager.”
The entire website consists of a picture of the bottle and the following text:
Let the Good Times Grow
Wild Hop Lager is made with 100% organic barley malt, giving this certified USDA Organic brew a hearty taste that is rich and flavorful. Plus, with every purchase of Wild Hop Lager, a donation will be made to the Organic Farming Research Foundation to improve and educate people on organic farming practices. Together we can set a better example for future generations.
Organic … and they donate to charity. This is getting better and better. So I do a whois search to find out who is the owner of the domain name and — I’m almost giddy when I see it — I’m right. It belongs to Anheuser-Busch of St. Louis, Missouri. I dig a little further and discover the Maltlog on the website for the Missouri Division of Alcohol and Tobacco Control. On February 6, 2006, A-B applied to register “Wild Hop Lager” and “Harbin Lager” and both were granted on February 10. Ohio similarly approved the name on February 14 of this year.
Now this isn’t the first time Anheuser-Busch has tried to make a microbrew. Anybody remember Pacific Ridge Pale Ale? As far as I know, they’re still making kegs of it at the Fairfield plant and selling it to restaurants and bars as their own private label craft beer. But there’s one distinct difference between Wild Hop Lager and Pacific Ridge. On all the Pacific Ridge packaging, it was clearly disclosed that it was an Anheuser-Busch package. With Wild Hop Lager, no such disclosure is made. In fact, it appears downright designed to appear to be a real craft brewed beer, not that that’s new either. There never was a Plank Road Brewery (it was Miller) or a Blue Moon Brewery (that one was Coors), either.
This is just the latest attempt to regain flagging sales. With good growth in the craft beer segment, it’s hardly surprising that they’d try to make their own craft beer-like product. It’s their modus operandi, after all, to infiltrate any segement of the market they can and either dominate it or shut it down. That this was so clandestine is a little surprising and most consumers, I fear, won’t realize they’re being duped. I’m perfectly okay with Anheuser-Busch making a better beer, but I’d be a lot more comfortable with it if they didn’t go about it in such a way that seems so underhanded and deceitful.
Anheuser-Busch’s new macro-micro on the shelves of my local grocer.
UPDATE: Several people on various forums have commented that they would have liked to see tasting notes for the beer here. While I was unwilling to part with the $8 necessary to provide tasting notes, the San Francisco Chronicle did a blind tasting of the beer as a part of their coverage of this story on March 30.
By Jay Brooks
Brasserie d’Achouffe, a relatively recent addition to the scores of excellent small Belgian breweries (they began in the mid-1980s) will become the second Belgian brewery (after Urthel) to create a Double IPA to import to the American market. Their new Houblon Chouffe IPA Dobbelen Tripel will reportedly be available in the U.S. through B. United beginning later this month. Shaun O’Sullivan, brewer and co-owner of 21st Amendment Brewery & Restaurant in San Francisco, California, became the first American to try the beer during a brewery visit last week. I have to say that I like this trend. For years, American brewers have been paying homage to the wonderful beers of Belgium. It’s nice to see that trend beginning to reverse even on a small scale. It means at the very least that we’re doing something right, even if the majority of our own consumers are largely oblivious. I for one look forward to giving this one a try.
Jean Louie, Marketing director of Brasserie d’Achouffe leads Shaun O’Sullivan on a tour of the Achouffe brewery.
Drinking the Dobbelen IPA, Jen Garris and Shaun O’Sullivan were the first Americans to try this beer. They took pictures of Shaun drinking it. The Imperial IPA will be sold only for the American Market. According to Shaun, it’s a very bitter beer with the Achouffe yeast aroma. Chris, one of two owners is on the far left. Jean Louie is next to him and then Christopher. Shaun also brought two bottles of his Double Trouble Imperial IPA and it blew them away.
Jen Garris and Shaun O’Sullivan trying the range of beers from Brasserie d’Achouffe in their new tasting room.
Jen Garris and Shaun O’Sullivan toasting with Achouffe’s Dobbelen IPA.
By Jay Brooks
Arne Johnson, brewmaster at Marin Brewing Co. in Larkspur, California (and the winner of this year’s Bistro Double IPA Festival), told me on Saturday that he’s brewed his first quadruple and that it’s in the tank now. He anticipates it will be available at the pub in about six weeks. That would be the week of March 26, the last week of the month. Mark your calendars, it should be worth waiting for.
By Jay Brooks
Stampede Light, the brainchild of Lawrence Schwartz of Dallas, Texas, is a light beer enhanced with extra vitamins, besides the many already naturally occurring in beer. Created last year with the help of light beer guru Joe Owades (Owades passed away in December of 2005), is marketing itself as the first “vitamin” beer, whatever that means. It seems to play on the perception that most people hold, which is that beer is unhealthful. While it may be that the product churned out by the big breweries — which is loaded with many of several dozen chemicals approved by the FDA for use in beer production — is not as healthy as beer ought to be, most craft beer is made using all-natural ingredients and use very few, if any, chemical additives. Beer made in this traditional way returns beer to a time when it was considered “liquid bread” and preferable to water, since it had more nutritional value and avoided any problems with sanitation that were common in centuries past. But the perception of beer as unhealthy is a very recent phenomenon, fueled by prohibitionists, neo-prohibitionists like MADD and others, and ironically by the big breweries themselves with their questionable propaganda techniques that show their type of beer in a less than flattering light.
In recent years, all types of foods and beverages have been enhanced with herbs, patent-like medicines and the like all in an effort to market them as “health foods” or “smart foods” that are better for you than the originals. Most marketing is, of course, utter nonsense, thinly disguised propaganda whose sole mission is to separate you from your money. And to say that the science of propaganda has become more sophisticated and effective in recent decades is an understatement of immense proportions. We live in an age where propaganda is used to sell everything from toilet paper to the latest war without most people even realizing that it is indeed propaganda.
So I suppose it was inevitable that a new age “enhanced” beer would come to light, so to speak. As reported on a local television station in central Florida, WKMG Channel 6, “Schwartz said the federal government told him that he cannot claim the beer is good for drinkers and can’t list vitamins on the labels because it would be an implied health claim.” Curiously, the website also lists the calories in a bottle of Stampede Light at 112, which is actually slightly higher than Bud Light. Slashfood also had a piece today about Stampede Light, in which they also mention that regular beer already had several alphabet vitamins as well as niacin.
Here are small sampling of more places to read about beer’s health benefits:
Stampede Light’s approach appears to be aimed at young, health-conscious 20-30-somethings who don’t know much about what beer tastes like nor its history. Photos on the website’s gallery show attractive men and women in clubs or on the street with a bottle in their hand. (apparently you can’t be ugly and drink this beer, or perhaps the beer itself will make you more attractive?) Mercifully, the beer is currently only available in north Texas, around the Dallas area. Enough with the new light beers, already.
By Jay Brooks
Last Night at Barclays Restaurant & Pub on College Avenue in Berkeley, 21st Amendment brewer and co-owner Shaun O’Sullivan tapped a firkin of his new Double Trouble Imperial IPA. One of several new beers for Strong Beer Month, the Imperial IPA is 10.1% abv and an absolute delight on the firkin. It’s brightly amber colored and begins with strong alpha hop aromas. I detected the obvious Cascade aromas (which Shaun later confirmed, along with Amarillo, Simcoe, Stygian and Goldings and others). The lush flavors have a big hop presence but it’s enchantingly smooth with a great mouthfeel. Overall it’s creamy and delicious and lingers pleasantly on the tongue for many minutes. Highly Recommended.
Shaun O’Sullivan (at left) mugs for the camera with James Costa of Moylan’s Brewing, my local pub in Marin County.
By Jay Brooks
I didn’t start this blog to rail against Anheuser-Busch. Really I didn’t. You’ll just have to take my word for it. Until recently, I hadn’t been paying as close attention to the daily derring do of the brewing world as I used to. I had taken a little over a year off from watching the industry that closely in order to care for my autistic son Porter and his little sister Alice. When I became a stay-at-home father I gave up my job as GM of the Celebrator Beer News and I decided not to watch the world of brewing quite as closely. But this January I decided to jump back in and see what I could do writing more seriously from home and it feels a bit as if I’ve just woken from a long nap. I’m still a little groggy and when I look around I feel disoriented. And every other day it seems it seems like Anheuser-Busch is doing something to make me wish I hadn’t woken up.
Today’s head scratcher is a dark light beer, Michelob Ultra Amber. Now I realize that to A-B a dark beer is really just a beer with a little color, an amber beer. Something on the order of 6-9 lovibonds, I suspect. Budweiser is 2 although Michelob Dark is around 18. Your average Guinness is 40, which is the upper end of the scale. So calling this dark is more than a little bit of a stretch.
But I have to be fair here about who should really take the blame for it being characterized as a dark beer. And a close look at the official press release reveals that they never refer to the new beer as a dark beer. In fact, the word is used only twice in reference to the use of “dark-roasted specialty malts” and in mentioning “using darker roasted malts to increase the flavor.” So much as I’d like to, I can’t fault A-B on this one. The blame falls squarely on the mass media who decided a catchy headline like “dark light beer” is better than accuracy. The AP story seems to have been the first to use this dark-light fallacy in their headline. This in turn was echoed all over the media that uses AP wire stories. So chalk up yet another example of the short shrift beer gets in the mainstream press. The author, one Jim Salter, appears to write about everything from business to sports. So he can’t expected to know anything about what he’s writing. The facts just don’t matter in today’s entertainment journalism.
This is a very frustrating situation for most beer writers I know. Any of us would happily fact check a beer article for almost any journalist just to insure the public is not told another ridiculous falsehood which will take a lot of work to undo. People tend to believe their daily paper and discount what they read in the free brewspaper they pick up at their local bar even though it’s generally the opposite. Most news outlets, if they cover beer at all, assign it to a wine or food writer who generally could care less about beer itself and any attendant accuracy. There are exceptions, of course. But sadly, not too many.
However, I can’t let Anheuser-Busch off the hook completely. They are still rolling out another pointless beer. An amber colored light beer is, after all, another light beer. And heaven knows we don’t need any of those. But as long as they’re the only beer category showing growth, I don’t think they’ll be disappearing any time soon.
By Jay Brooks
By Jay Brooks
Four Bay Area breweries are participating in the brewing of Poor Richard’s Ale in honor of Benjamin Franklin’s 300th birthday, which is today, Tuesday, January 17. Today they’ll tap the specially designed recipe along with dozens of breweries across the nation. Check out what breweries in your area will also be pariticipating.
Bay Area Breweries Making Poor Richard’s Ale
Half Moon Bay Brewing
Magnolia Pub & Brewery
Steelhead Brewing – Burlingame
21st Amendment Brewery
