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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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FredFest Auction Begins Today

May 9, 2008 By Jay Brooks

fred-eckhardt
Today at 3:00 p.m. (left coast time), the online auction for FredFest begins, and will close on Sunday, also at 3:00 p.m.

Here’s some of what’s up for auction, the proceeds of which will be donated to charity. You can find more information about the lots at the Liquid Solutions Blog and the auction itself is at Liquid Solutions.

  1. Hair of the Dog Dave 1994 (375 ml)
  2. Hair of the Dog Adam #1 1994 (12 oz.)
  3. Full Sail Old Boardhead Vertical: 1998 & 1999 (12 oz.), 2001-2007 (22 oz.)
  4. Pike Old Bawdy Vertical: 1996-1998, 2006-2007 (12 oz).
  5. AleSmith: Old Numbskull (750 ml), Grand Cru (750 ml), Horney Devil (750 ml)
  6. Lost Abbey: Older Viscosity (375 ml) Angel’s Share (375 ml), Lost and Found (750 ml)
  7. Rodenbach Alexander 1991 (330 ml) and Rochefort 10 1999 (330 ml)
  8. Westvleteren 12 1997 (11.2 oz.)
  9. Anchor Brewing Commemorative Michael Jackson’s 60th Birthday Beer (1.5 L)
  10. And others from Avery, Midnight Sun, J.W. Lees, Big Time, Fish Tale — and more

From the press release:

Beer aficionados across the nation will be reaching for their wallets this weekend when rare beers and vertical collections will be highlighted at the first-ever FredFest Online Beer Auction.

The auction starts at 3 p.m. PDT Friday, May 9 and begins to wrap up at 3 p.m. PDT Sunday, May 11. The auction is designed to run concurrently with FredFest 2008 — a celebration of the 82nd birthday of Fred Eckhardt, the Dean of American Beer Writers, which is taking place May 10 at Hair of the Dog Brewing Co., in Portland.

“FredFest started as a surprise 80th birthday party for Fred, but is coming back around in its third year as a fundraiser in the memory of fellow beer scribe and friend, Michael Jackson,” said FredFest co-organizer Lisa Morrison.

Each year, Eckhardt is asked to choose a charity for FredFest. This year, he chose Parkinson’s Resources of Oregon, a local affiliate of the National Parkinson Foundation. Jackson had been battling complications from Parkinson’s disease when he died last summer.

The first-ever FredFest online auction was the brainchild of Hair of the Dog owner Alan Sprints, Ben Love of Hopworks Urban Brewery and Matt Maples of Liquid Solutions bottle shop.

It’s for a worthy cause, so bid generously.

Filed Under: Beers, Events, Just For Fun, News Tagged With: Portland

First Pink Boots Society Meeting Held

April 22, 2008 By Jay Brooks

The Pink Boots Society, the organization of women in beer founded by Teri Fahrendorf, held their first meeting during the recent Craft Brewers Conference on April 19. Teri used to be in charge of brewing operations for the Steelhead chain of brewpubs, but left that job to travel around the country, a journey which she documented as the Road Brewer. Around the same time, she started the Pink Boots Society to be a group of women brewers and related beer occupations that would advocate for women in the industry.

16 women brewers & cellarwomen attended the first meeting, as listed below in no particular order.

Teri Fahrendorf (Formerly Steelhead Brewery), Laura Ulrich (Stone Brewing), Jessica Gilman (Stone Brewing), Alysha Heck (Orlando Brewing), Barbara Gerovac (Red Car Brewery), Emily Thomas (Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing), Erin Glass (Formerly New Belgium, now with the Brewers Association), Hayley Meagher (Rock Bottom – Long Beach), Maribeth Raines (Great Beer Company), Michelle Lowney (Formerly Phantom Canyon, now a Consultant in Canada), Jamie Martin (Dells Brewing), Tonya Cornett (Bend Brewing), Denise Jones (Moylan’s), Laurie Wright Matthews (Island Brewing), Carol Stoudt (Stoudt Brewing), Alyson Tomlin (R & B Brewing).

Filed Under: Events, Just For Fun, News Tagged With: Uncategorized

Portland’s FredFest To Honor Two Beer Writers

April 22, 2008 By Jay Brooks

fred-eckhardt
Portland’s Fred Eckhardt is a living legend, especially in his home city, having pioneered writing about and defining beer styles with his early book on the subject, The Essentials of Beer Style, published in 1989. A couple of years ago, Portland threw Fred a surprise birthday party for his 80th — called “FredFest.” It’s become an annual event, now in its third year. And this year, the charity event will raise funds for Parkinson’s disease in honor of fellow beer legend Michael Jackson, who passed away last August.

From the press release:

More than 15 rare and unique beers created by some of Oregon’s most celebrated breweries will be on tap at FredFest 2008. The event will take place from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday, May 10 — the actual date of Eckhardt’s 82nd birthday — at Hair of the Dog Brewing, 4509 SE 23rd Avenue in Portland.

The beer menu is still being firmed up, but brewers are promising to pony up something special for the event. The number of beers for FredFest will increase from last year, according to co-organizer and chief beer wrangler Preston Weesner. Some of the breweries that already have committed to the event include: Hair of the Dog (with a special keg of Jim 07), BridgePort, Deschutes, Widmer, Hopworks Urban Brewery, Rogue and Firestone Walker.

Attendees will be treated not only to a rare assortment of hand-selected beers, but also light fare including pastrami cured with Hair of the Dog Fred ale and a birthday cake — complete with a round of “Happy Birthday” — for Eckhardt. Cheeses, chocolate, candy and even cereal will be offered in abundance so attendees can experience some of Eckhardt’s famed beer-and-food pairings.

Cost for the event is $50 in advance and includes a souvenir glass, free ticket for a raffle of bottled specialty beers and four hours’ of sampling, sipping and story-telling with Eckhardt. Admission is limited to 200 attendees. Judging from previous years, the event is expected to sell out quickly. Tickets are available through Pay-Pal. E-mail fredfest@comcast.net to purchase tickets.

Additionally, this year, a silent auction featuring bottles of rare beers running in conjunction with FredFest, allowing Fred fans across the country to be a part of Eckhardt’s birthday and the FredFest celebration and fundraiser.

As always, proceeds from FredFest and the related online auction will go to a charity of Eckhardt’s choice. This year, Eckhardt named Parkinson’s Resources of Oregon, the local affiliate chapter of the National Parkinson Foundation, as the featured charity in memory of his longtime friend and fellow beer writer Michael Jackson, who died in 2007 after a long battle with Parkinson’s disease.

What more could you ask for, great beer and a worthy cause.

Filed Under: Events, Just For Fun, News Tagged With: Beer Festivals, Portland

CBC Begins In San Diego

April 22, 2008 By Jay Brooks

ba
The Craft Brewers Conference, this year held in San Diego, officially began last Thursday — as it always does — with all the Brewers Association members assembled in a large hall for the “Welcome and Keynote Address.” During this time, they also present three awards important within the craft beer industry.

cbc08-20

After opening remarks from BA President Charlie Papazian, Tom Nickel gave the history of San Diego, the area’s beer community, along with tips on what to see and do in the city.

cbc08-23

Dr. Michael Lewis, from U.C. Davis, received one of the three awards.

cbc08-25

As did Vinnie Cilurzo, from Russian River Brewing.

gallery

For more information and photos from this year’s first day of the Craft Brewers Conference, visit the photo gallery.

Filed Under: Breweries, Events, Just For Fun, News Tagged With: Awards, Brewers Association, CBC, San Diego

St. Patrick’s Day: Another Holiday Ruined By America

March 17, 2008 By Jay Brooks

Happy St. Patrick’s Day everyone. Enjoy your pint of Guinness, or Murphy’s, or Beamish, or whatever. In Ireland, they’ll be sitting down to a traditional family dinner, which while it may include a dry Irish stout, is not all about the drinking. But here in the United States, the supposed melting pot, we take everybody’s holidays and run them through the cultural meat grinder. When they come out on the other end they’re invariably bigger, glossier, brighter and most people probably think more fun, if your idea of fun is to drink yourself silly every time you have an extra day off. But whatever solemn purpose or commemoration or event is being celebrated it is all but completely erased and what remains is fun, fun, fun. Now I like fun as much as the next guy. I’m a curmudgeon, certainly, but I still like to have fun. But we’re talking about days set aside so that we don’t forget our heritage, the often selfless sacrifices people have made on our behalf or the celebration of religious traditions. And how do we treat those days, almost without exception? We drink. And not just a toast. We drink to excess. We drink until the streets run pink or brown or yellow or whatever with vomit. Of course, we do this to our own holidays, too. Unfortunately, I see this as fairly recent trend. I remember when Memorial Day wasn’t just an excuse to have a picnic or barbecue and drink. I remember when Halloween was just for children and not the biggest keg sales weekend of the year (which it actually is now).

Now I enjoy a party, a picnic, a barbecue as much as the next guy. Any excuse to get together with friends and family is a welcome event. That’s not what I object to. My objection is twofold. First there’s the general over-commercialization of holidays. Second, there’s the way in which the big breweries, mass market imports along with the wine and spirits industries have seized upon each and every holiday as a way to sell more booze. And, of course, I’m not anti-alcohol. I hope that goes without saying but just in case, feel free to read more of what I’ve written before and you should quickly realize that I don’t like the neo-prohibitionists as much as they no doubt dislike me.

As to the first point, the over-commercialization of holidays, I’m going to take it for granted that most people will agree that this has happened. It’s hard to miss that whatever commercial aspects are inherent in a given holiday, they have been wildly exploited and expanded upon. A stroll through the average card shop should be more than enough to drive this home. If not, then how about that stores start decorating for Christmas in October now, sometimes even earlier. Anyway, I don’t want to belabor this point too much because I think most people will accept it and my second point is, I think, more novel.

Before I dive into this further, a little more background is probably in order. I’m also something of a calendar geek and have an almanac blog, too. I started collecting dates about thirty years ago when I picked up a book on mixed drink recipes that had an appendix with a reason to celebrate and have a drink each and every day of the year. That got me thinking and I started keeping a notebook where I’d write down new holidays, famous birthdays and historical events I happened upon. As a result, I may be more sensitive to holidays than the typical person, if such a thing is possible.

Anyway, it seems to me what was once a solemn religious holiday celebrating the patron saint of Ireland on the date he was believed to have died, March 17, 461 C.E., has been perverted into a way to sell more Guinness and all manner of other Irish doo-dads. Several years ago, Guinness gave away an actual pub in Ireland to a winner in America. They did this for a few years running. What happened to the pub and the pub owners once they were out of the spotlight wasn’t always pretty and I suspect that’s why they stopped. Then there was the yearly attempts to break the world’s record — from the Guinness Book of World Records, naturally — for the largest number of people simultaneously toasting, which was accomplished with some elaborate coordination. I’m not even sure what they’re doing these days, since the parent company Diageo has had them off in bizarre directions which have not done the beer itself any favors, and I’ve pretty much given up on them as a brewery. They still seem to enjoy a good reputation, even among beer geeks. Of course, the stuff available here is brewed in Canada. That’s done so they can still put “imported” on the label. It’s a common trick. Foster’s does the same thing, as do a few other larger import beers. There are around 19 or 20 different Guinness beers worldwide, of course, and at least four different ones are sold here. The beer in the widget can, widget bottle (an abomination in my opinion), regular bottle and in kegs are not the same beer; I mean they’re not even the same recipe. I’m not saying there’s anything necessarily wrong with that. They’re fairly up front about it though still, I doubt most people are actually aware of it. So when somebody says they like Guinness, I have to wonder which one? I think it says a lot about peoples’ palates that so few realize they’re drinking completely different beers when they order a can or bottle of Guinness.

To be fair, St. Patrick’s Day isn’t the most egregious of these holidays by a long shot. At least dry Irish stout, which is what Guinness and most other Irish-made stouts are, is actually originally from Ireland. Many other non-Irish beer also advertise themselves for St. Patrick’s Day in about as shameless a fashion as one could imagine. Last weekend, while in Philadelphia, I witnessed part of their annual parade for St. Patrick’s Day. There were the requisite social organizations marching in their green colors, bands, floats for Irish bars and bagpipers. Oddly, one float was blasting the song 500 Miles by the Proclaimers. It’s a catchy little tune, but the band is Scottish, not Irish. To me, that’s a perfect illustration of how little we all know about our shared heritages. Nobody else seemed to notice they were celebrating Irish culture with a song from Scotland, least of all the people on the float who chose the music.

For most of its history, the holiday was a relatively quiet affair in Ireland, a time for family, church and reflection. There were shamrocks and other greenery, but it was mostly for the tourists who flocked to Dublin and other parts of the Emerald Isle.

Sadly, this may no longer be true in Ireland. In 1996, the government of Ireland began what has become a five-day celebration in Dublin known as the Official St. Patrick’s Festival, which this year began on the 13th and concludes today. The stated goal of the festival is the following.

 

  1. Offer a national festival that ranks amongst all of the greatest celebration in the world
  2. Create energy and excitement throughout Ireland via innovation, creativity, grassroots involvement, and marketing activity
  3. Provide the opportunity and motivation for people of Irish descent (and those who sometimes wish they were Irish) to attend and join in the imaginative and expressive celebrations
  4. Project, internationally, an accurate image of Ireland as a creative, professional and sophisticated country with wide appeal, as we approach the new Millennium.

 

That’s certainly a modern approach to raising revenues for the country through tourism but it feels a bit like a sell-out. Given that the Irish have been shedding their own blood over religion for centuries, it seems odd to me that they’d so cavalierly commercialize their national holiday. But perhaps the momentum was too great and they decided to go with it rather than fight a losing battle. America has a way of ruining almost everything it touches, remaking it our own image of bigger, glitzier and with an eye toward profit, always profit. But when profit is the prime motivator, the meaning of the traditions that binds a people become lost. No matter how rich we might become, nothing can rival the social connections that make us a society rather then a group of self-serving individuals who care nothing for their fellow man.

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Enjoy it with friends and family.
 

Filed Under: Editorial, Events, News

Losing Their Share of Mind

February 9, 2008 By Jay Brooks

trkanim
Anheuser-Busch’s “100% share of mind” program is legendary. It started ten years ago, when A-B began offering incentives to their distributors so they’d care only about A-B products. Though I assume they never said so — wink, wink — they encouraged distributors to drop non-A-B brands and concentrate on only the important brands. And at that time, such was A-B’s market strength that many distributors did in fact tow the line. But lately as domestic sales have been static or slipping, distributors are adding non-Bud brands to their portfolios to stay at the same level of profitability. The Associated Press had an article last week about this recent phenomenon called Beer Distributors Want More Than One Best Bud.

As the article points out:

For consumers, it means greater choice at their local bars and liquor stores. Wall Street analysts say the movement signals a weakening of the St. Louis brewer’s clout in the marketplace, as small-batch “craft” beers and imports, as well as wine and spirits, wrest market share from mass-market brews like Budweiser.

Many of the 560 nationwide A-B distributors realized that as craft beer is increasingly in demand, that their competitors were having the last laugh, because they were free to pick up whatever brands they wanted and believed they could be successful selling.

While IRI general manager Bump Williams described the program as a “great business model,” not everybody was convinced that it was fair. The DOJ launched an investigation into anti-trust violations, but later abandoned it. Naturally, A-B continues to push the program with such statements as “[w]e want their efforts and focus aligned with ours.” Well, who wouldn’t? But that isn’t how the world works nor is it how it should work. It’s schemes like this one that gave A-B its reputation as a bully. And it appears that they still have that mindset. Again, from the AP article.

Still, Anheuser wasn’t happy with the way it learned of the Tennessee distributors’ decision. “We found out later (in their decision-making process) than we would have liked,” says Mr. Peacock. “When we don’t get early communication, it rubs us wrong.”

Now why would one business be rubbed the wrong way if another, supposedly separate and independent company, didn’t consult with them before making a business decision? The best illustration of this mindset comes from more than a decade ago, with the former head of A-B, August Busch III, sitting around a conference table at their Hawaiian distributor petulantly throwing bottles of craft beer against the wall, smashing them to bits, to show his displeasure with a separate business having the unmitigated gall to sell something he can’t profit from. It’s that arrogance, borne of being the market leader for such a long time, that leads a company to believe that whatever is in their best interest is in everyone else’s best interests, too.

But as the market changes, that’s becoming less and less tenable. Distributors are realizing that to remain successful, they have to stock brands that their customers want, regardless of who makes them. That only makes good business sense. Some industry analysts, like my friend Harry Schuhmacher who runs Beer Business Daily, are surprised that it has taken so long for this to begin happening. As he puts it. “It really hasn’t been a widespread national jailbreak.” But that’s the hold that A-B has traditionally had over its distributors. Now that it’s finally beginning to erode, it will be interesting to see what percentage share of mind Bud is left with.

Filed Under: Breweries, Editorial, News, Politics & Law Tagged With: Anheuser-Busch, Beer Distributors, Big Brewers, Business

Maui Wowie

February 8, 2008 By Jay Brooks

maui
Yesterday’s Honolulu Advertiser had a nice profile of Maui Brewing (thanks Doug). It’s a nice overview of how Sacramento resident Garrett Marrero moved to Kahana, on Maui, after buying the old Fish and Game Brewing Co. & Rotisserie. They’ve also started hand-canning their beers, which are now featured on Hawaiian Airlines, which is a great package for an island like Hawaii.

maui-cans

Three of Maui’s beers in cans. The Porter won a gold medal at last year’s GABF. There’s a nice photo series of their first canning on their website.

maui-brewers
Brewmaster Thomas Kerns owner Garrett Marrero. Tom was my judging roomie at last year’s Great American Beer Festival.

Filed Under: Beers, Just For Fun, News Tagged With: Cans, Hawaii, Mainstream Coverage

Cognitive Branding

January 29, 2008 By Jay Brooks

This is slightly off topic — it’s more about advertising — but since Anheuser-Busch’s Super Bowl ads are singled out, and also because it’s quite interesting, I thought I’d pass it along just the same. An article in yesterday’s Advertising Age by a Lisa Haverty, titled Don’t Flush Your Ad Down the Super Bowl: Unless Your Spot Has Fundamental Cognitive Elements, No One Will Recall Your Brand, begins with this ominous warning. “If you’re not Bud, don’t bother.” Ouch, if I were spending $2.7 million on an ad promoting the Bulletin during the Super Bowl I wouldn’t be very happy to read that. But apparently unless I’m careful to incorporate “some very fundamental cognitive elements” in my ad, people will end up remembering it as another Bud ad. The Cognitive Science Conference — doesn’t that have fun time written all over it? — held last August in Tennessee (and sponsored by the Cognitive Science Society) revealed in a study that “[a]ds with poor ‘cognitive scores’ were misattributed by consumers, and beer ads were attributed to the huge Super Bowl presence that is Budweiser.” There are ways to avoid this from happening. As Haverty suggests, you have to follow the basic principles of cognitive science to make people remember who you are, or in the jargon, reliable brand recall.

Here’s an interesting example:

Take, for example, the concept of “working memory.” Information has to go through working memory to get into long-term memory, where brand awareness and loyalty reside. One of the principles of cognitive science is that a person can hold and process only about seven items in working memory at any given moment. This actually varies from about five to nine in the general population. If your ad has so much information that it exceeds working-memory capacity, you’ll lose control over what consumers are able to remember. Cog-sci lesson: Respect working memory.

There are a few other examples, read them if you find this sort of thing as fascinating as I do. What I really take away from all this, apart from the simple fact that one must be careful in how to spend $2.7 million, is something I always suspected about any large company’s approach to blitzkrieg advertising. By year after year being the biggest advertiser during the Super Bowl, A-B has set themselves up in a very enviable position. Any other beer or related commercial runs the risk of having their own ad remembered by consumers as being for the competition. Talk about a gamble. They’ve effectively made it almost impossible for any other beer company to reach their audience during one of the most-watched television events of the year. In essence, they now own the event, ad-wise. The cynic in me thinks that if they paid for it, they should reap the rewards, but my idealistic side hates that any big company with vastly more resources than all of his competition can just use a bludgeon to maintain his market position. But that’s what’s happening in virtually any industry you can name. Once upon a time, hundreds and thousands of small local and regional businesses competed more or less on a level playing field, at least more fair than today’s environment. Go anywhere in America today, and the number of national chain stores and other businesses dominating and squashing local competitors is astonishingly near completion. And that’s not good on so many levels. As the science of advertising gets better and better, we’ve truly been manipulated into thinking what’s good for GM is good for America. If that idea is allowed to run its course there will be two or three brands, at most, for literally every type of good you can name, and even at that each will be remarkably similar to one another. Only the cognitive branding, advertising and marketing will be able to identify any difference, and they’ll do so by the most dishonest of methods possible. Geez, I need a beer.

As an aside, there’s a very funny critique of this AdAge article by AdHurl, which as far as I can tell is by a thirty-year veteran of the ad game, George Parker. He calls out Haverty for her overuse of the word “cognitive” throughout her piece. It’s snarky and hilarious. A kindred soul.

 

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, Law, Press Release, Washington

Stout & Cheddar Soup

January 28, 2008 By Jay Brooks

This tasty looking recipe was featured on Chicago’s ABC Channel 7, created by Michael Pivoney, Executive Chef at Marion Street Cheese Market.

 

Stout & Cheddar Soup (makes 6 servings)

 

  • 2 Tbsp. canola oil
  • 1 stick unsalted butter
  • 3 stalks celery, diced
  • 2 jumbo carrots, diced
  • 1 medium white onion, diced
  • 1 stalk of leek, diced
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • ½ cup all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup rye flour
  • 2 bottles of stout beer (premium quality such as Guinness)
  • 1 quart chicken stock (vegetable stock may be substituted)
  • 1 tsp. thyme
  • dash of Worcestershire sauce
  • dash of tabasco
  • 2 cups finely-shredded cheddar cheese (premium quality)
  • Kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper

 

Method:

In a large soup pot, heat the oil and butter then saute the celery, carrots, onion, leeks and garlic over medium-high heat for approximately 10 minutes – until the onions are translucent Add the flour and saute over medium-low heat for approximately 8 minutes until flour is slightly brown and has a nutty scent. Whisk-in the stout beer and simmer for five minutes, then add chicken stock and thyme and dashes of Worcestershire sauce and tabasco. Continue to simmer and when mixture begins to thicken, slowly add the cheese, whisking constantly until well-combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then allow the soup to simmer over low heat an additional 30 minutes.

Puree the soup in a blender and serve hot.

 

 

Filed Under: Beers, Editorial, News Tagged With: Business, Europe

Boscos Opens Production Brewery

January 25, 2008 By Jay Brooks

Boscos, the small brewpub chain with locations in Tennessee and Arkansas, has completed work on their new production brewery in Memphis. The first batch of beer was brewed December 31 of last year by my friend Chuck Skypeck, who also sent along a few photos of the new facility. If you’re like me, you can’t get enough pictures of brewing equipment.

The outside of Boscos new production brewery, where the headquarters were moved about a year ago. The building itself is curved to follow the distinctive path of the road in a part of Memphis south of downtown currently going through a resurgence. It used to be a meat packaging plant with some elements they needed already in place and the rest they remodeled, keeping a number of the retro industrial architectural elements intact, like green tiled walls and chrome swinging doors.

Head brewer Mike Campbell, formerly with Tractor Brewing in Albuquerque, New Mexico, who’s been on hand to help build the brewery since the beginning.

The production brewery will be used primarily for off-premise sales of growlers and kegs, which is not permitted from their brewpubs under Tennessee law, and also to provide beer for additional Boscos that will not have their own breweries. The first of these, in Cool Springs, Tennessee (south of Nashville), is slated to open this spring. They’ll also begin distributing their beer to a select number of area restaurants.

 

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Brewing Equipment, Business, Photo Gallery, Southern States

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