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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Science News: A Skunk Walks Into a Bar …

March 4, 2006 By Jay Brooks

I stumbled upon this news item from last December that appeard in Science News, the Weekly News Magazine of Science. The article, by Aimee Cunningham, entitled A Skunk Walks into a Bar . . . Fighting Beer’s Fouler Flavors was a pretty good overview of the history of identifying and codifying the individual flavor compounds found in beer. Some of the information is necessarily simplified but it still contains a lot of worthwhile and interesting information.

Filed Under: Just For Fun, News

Watermelon Funk: A Collaboration

March 2, 2006 By Jay Brooks

21st-amend russian-river
The fruit beer craze is definitely over, not that that’s a bad thing. Most of the remaining fruit beers are very worthwhile and quite tasty. Beers such as New Glarus’ Raspberry Tart, Unibroue’s Quelque Chose or Great Divide’s Wild Raspberry Ale spring to mind. But a local favorite has to be Shaun O’Sullivan’s Watermelon Wheat, that has become as much a sign of summer as the first robin is of spring. A ubiquitous sight at 21st Amendment during the warm weather, Watermelon Wheat is very refreshing with strong watermelon aromas and flavor from the many pounds of watermelon added to each batch.

Shaun has now given several barrels to Vinnie Cilurzo at Russian River Brewing and he’s put them in oak barrels and sparked them with the Belgian yeast Brettanomyces. Nobody knows what this experiment will taste like, but I for one hope to be around when we find out. It should, at the very least, be quite interesting.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Bay Area, California, San Francisco

Amazing A-B Turnaround! Wow, That Was Fast!

February 25, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Wow, these guys are good. Just a few weeks ago A-B was talking about their earnings dip like the sky was falling, running around doing anything they could think of. “Pick up more imports” (Grolsch), try to buy up some microbreweries, “create an ad campaign to celebrate beer” (Here’s to Beer), and “introduce new products” (Michelob Ultra Amber). Well I guess it was all worth it because yesterday it was anounced that Anheuser-Busch was “restoring sales and earnings momentum.” Whew, I’m glad that’s over and we can all relax.

Of course, I can’t help but wonder what “Restoring Sales And Earnings Momentum” actually means. Just on a purely semantic basis, how can you restore momentum? Merriam-Webster defines momentum as “strength or force gained by motion or through the development of events.” Is it even possible to “restore” so quickly something that by definition takes time. Momemtum must be gained slowly, it’s not like a race car weaving through the business landscape. But that’s propaganda for you. Frame something in a positive light and the facts or common sense hardly matter.

Frankly, if I were a shareholder I’d be concerned about these wide swings. First we’re up, then we’re down, now we’re up again all in the space of a few months. You’d think people would be more concerned with fixing any problems (not that any have been admitted, it’s always someone else’s fault) on a long term basis so they wouldn’t resurface. But shareholders are apparently a finicky bunch afflicted with a economic form of ADD. They want growth and earnings and they want it now dammit, or they’re selling. It’s the adult equivilent of play-my-way-or-I’m-taking-my-ball-and-going-home. They’re not in it for the long haul. So it’s not terribly surprising to see A-B float some small positive numbers and then spin it so they’re magically back on the road to recovery. Nothing will really change, but the share price goes up and everybody’s happy.

From the press release:

Through a number of new sales initiatives, the company restored its domestic beer volume and market share growth in the second half of 2005. Anheuser-Busch’s wholesalers’ sales-to-retailers increased 0.8 percent in the second half and grew 2.7 percent in the fourth quarter (both on a comparable selling day adjusted basis). Anheuser-Busch brands gained six-tenths of a share point at the consumer level in both the third and fourth quarters, according to IRI supermarket data. The company’s sales momentum has carried over into 2006, with wholesalers’ sales-to-retailers up 2.9 percent through mid-February.

Watch out any time you hear the euphemistic “new sales initiatives” which most likely means lowering prices. Most beer companies already do this a bit more in January and February, because they are traditionally the slowest months for beer sales. But lowering prices also has the curious effect of raising volume but lowering profit, and wasn’t that A-B’s problem in the first place?

And check out these numbers they’re crowing about. People tend to read headlines and maybe the first paragraph, studies have shown. So it’s no surprise the actual numbers that indicate restoring of momentum are in paragraph two, where it’s finally revealed that “wholesalers’ sales-to-retailers increased 0.8%” and “grew 2.7 percent in the fourth quarter (both on a comparable selling day adjusted basis).” Woo hoo. Now I know in terms of dollar amounts, because A-B so large, that even small percentage gains probably equal millions, it’s still not exactly the sort of numbers you expect people to start sending out press releases about. But also look at the paranthetical information. “Comparable selling day adjusted” is basically a trick to compare periods of time that have different numbers of days in them, that is it’s another way to potentially lie with statistics or at least show things in the most favorable light possible.

More from the press release:

Restoring cost stability is expected to take longer than restoring volume and pricing. Over the last three years, the domestic beer company has experienced substantial increases in commodity costs, most recently from aluminum, glass and energy. Commodity cost pressures continue in 2006. Commodity costs tend to be cyclical over the long-term and the company is actively working on a number of productivity initiatives to improve the cost outlook.

Just as an aside, I love the language that corporations use. Craft brewers use ingredients, supplies, etc. A-B uses “commodities.” Small brewers pay higher electric bills, big corporations experience substantial increases in commodity energy. That just cracks me up.

Normally, when supply costs go up you’d expect that prices to consumers would also rise. And while there have been modest increases, A-B and to some extent the other big breweries (because they’ve had to align their pricing with A-B to stay competitive) have minimized these as much as possible due to perceived consumer resistence to paying more for beer. Over the years this has kept big beer prices relatively low, especially compared with craft beer (which is generally much more expensive to produce). So their complaints about costs seems more like whining to me. They could raise prices to a percentage of actual supply costs anytime they wanted, but over the years they’ve trained their customers to expect low prices and now this strategy is starting to backfire. Plus, of course, profits would also suffer further indignities.

The other effect of keeping their prices artificially low is that the gap between a six-pack of Bud and a six-pack of something with flavor is necessarily higher. This has been a bone of contention of mine for quite some time. If A-B’s pricing reflected the same markup as craft brewers then the difference between their beer and something worth drinking would be substantially lower, making it much more possible for craft brewers to persuade consumers to trade up to their beers. But any consumer that is driven by price alone needs a lot more education about what he’s buying before he’ll be willing to change his buying patterns.

But the general meaning of this latest missive from Anheuser-Busch is, I think, yet another attempt to change their recent fortunes. When I wrote earlier that big companies will do anything to get the share price up, this is one of those “anythings.” I think we’ll see a lot more of these smiley face upbeat press releases over the next few months. We just have to remember to take them for what they really are: propaganda.

Filed Under: Editorial, News Tagged With: Business, Press Release

Anderson Valley Goes Solar

February 24, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Anderson Valley Brewing Co. of Boonville, California announced today the completion of an almost one million dollar project to generate their own solar power to brew beer. A final inspection was successfully completed today by PG&E and their new state-of-the-art photovoltaic system went on-line immediately thereafter.

“We‚ve got solar powered beer going on here,” said Peter Suddeth, longtime brewery employee (and press release author). “You can drink it and feel good that you’re helping to preserve the environment.”

From the press release:

The $860,000 project includes two arrays; a 175 ft. by 53 ft. array on the south facing roof of the brewery’s cellar and packaging facility, and a separate 120 ft. by 24 ft. ground-based freestanding array. The 125 kWh system is the largest privately owned PV system north of the San Francisco Bay Area, and among the largest in the western hemisphere. The brewers hope that the system will produce as much as 40% of their annual electrical needs.

The project underscores the brewery’s longstanding commitment to keeping its environmental impact as low as possible. “We feel an obligation, specifically to this pristine valley in which we’re located, but to the rest of the world as well, to be responsible with resources. We recycle as much of our waste as we can; paper, plastic, glass, cardboard. We have our own waste water reclamation system, and now we can greatly reduce our reliance on outside electricity,” said brewery president, Kenneth Allen “Solar is the future. We’re proud to be getting a jump on it,” Allen continued, citing statistics showing that almost 75% of the electricity used in California is generated with nonrenewable resources such as coal, natural gas, and uranium. Solar energy is currently California’s most abundant source of electricity, and yet, at under three tenths of a percent, it is the most under utilized. (Source: 2004 Net System Power Calculation Report, Energy Commission Publication # 300-04-001R)

The installation of the first 391 solar panels of the large array (592 panels; 175 ft. by 53 ft.) on the roof of the brewery’s cellar and packaging facility back in June of 2005. [photo by Peter Suddeth, AVBC]

From left: Pete Gregson, of Advance Solar in Calpella, California, and Rod DeWitt, Director of Plant Engineering & Process Control at Anderson Valley Brewing, discuss the completed smaller array (176 panels, 120 ft. by 24 ft.). The Roof of the Brewhouse, and about half of the large array can be seen behind. [photo by Peter Suddeth, AVBC]

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, California, Northern California, Press Release

Carlsberg’s Historical Copenhagen Brewery to Close

February 22, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Carlsbery Brewery of Denmark announced today that it will be closing it historical Valby Plant at the end of 2008. Brewery operations will be moving 125 miles away to their Fredericia facility in western Denmark, which will be getting a new brewhouse to increase capacity. They will continue to brew speciality beers at the Jacobsen brewhouse in Valby, but everything else will be moving. Bloomberg News reported on the business aspects of the decision.

Happily, the historical brewery, which has brewing there since 1847, will be developed by Carlsberg though exact plans have not yet been decided. But at least, as reported by Food Ingedients First, “the famous brewery horses and the historical buildings such as the Elephant Gate, the brewery, the museum, Carl’s Villa, the Carlsberg Academy and approximately 20 other buildings that Danes consider to be of major culturo-historical merit, will not be affected by the plans to close production in Valby.”
 
 

The famous Elephant Gate.
 

The gate from a distance with the modern Carlsberg highrise in the background.

The brewery in Copenhagen.

The Dipylongate at night.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, Europe

Grolsch to Be Distributed Nationally by Anheuser-Busch

February 21, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Anheuser-Busch announced today that beginning in 2007 they would begin exclusively distributing Grolsch in the United States. The Netherlands beer is most famous for its unique green bottle and ceramic flip-top crown. The AP Story by Christopher Leonard ran in today’s LA Times, as well as other papers throughout the country and abroad. From the press release:

Anheuser-Busch will become the U.S. importer of the upscale Grolsch traditional European beer brands, giving the American brewer a well-established and popular entry in the growing U.S. import category, the two brewers jointly announced today.

The agreement gives the Dutch brands access to the Anheuser-Busch broad marketing and sales expertise and to its wide reaching U.S. distribution network. The deal is part of an aggressive push by Anheuser-Busch into high-end beer categories.

….

The agreement will be effective January 2007. Terms of the agreement were not disclosed. The imported Grolsch beer will continue to be brewed at the Grolsch brewery in Enschede, Netherlands, for export to the United States.

Grolsch is currently distributed by United States Beverage (USB) of Stamford, Connecticut. Calls to USB for comment were not immediately returned. I will update this story once they have responded. USB was founded by Joseph J. Fisch, Jr., formerly of Seagram’s. Grolsch was arguably the most popular beer in their portfolio. Once rumored to be in line to pick up Bass Ale, they currently also distribute SLO Brewing and Mariner of Holland, along with several alcopops and coolers.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, Europe, Press Release

Washington State Contemplating Beer Commission

February 20, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Elysian Brewing co-owner Dick Cantwell was featured in an AP story which ran today in the Seattle Times. It appears that the state legislature is “poised” (their word) to create a state beer commission to promote Washington-made beers.

From the article:

The crusade to establish Washington-made as a premium microbrew brand is in line for some help from the state Legislature, which appears willing to create a new industry promotional arm called the Washington Beer Commission.

If lawmakers give their blessing, the commission would be officially empowered to levy a modest tax on its producers, put on fundraising festivals, and — perhaps most importantly — give away free beer.

“I drink milk, personally,” said state Sen. Marilyn Rasmussen, D-Eatonville, a dairy farmer who is a sponsor of the Beer Commission bill. “But as long as they use Washington hops and Washington barley, I approve.”

The beer makers’ model is the Washington Wine Commission, seen as instrumental in promoting the state’s most well-known adult beverage during its rise to national prominence in the past 20 years.

Dick Cantwell, brewer and co-owner of Elysian Brewing.

Sounds good to me. Washington certainly makes some wonderful beers and they should shout about them. In addition to being home to the first brewpub in modern times — Grant’s in 1982 — Washington state won the sixth highest number of medals at last year’s Great American Beer Festival. There are 54 active members of the Washington Brewers Guild and include many world class breweries.
 
 

And congratulations to Dick on the good press.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, Washington

Photo Gallery: Celebrator 18th Anniversary Party

February 20, 2006 By Jay Brooks

The Celebrator Beer News held it’s 18th Anniversary Party Sunday evening at Trumer Brauerei in Berkeley, California. In addition to being a fun event, it was also for a worthy cause this year. A portion of the proceeds will reportedly be donated to Louisiana breweries through Abita and the Louisiana Disaster Recovery Foundation. The entire evening featured mardi gras touches from the green and purple decor to the ubiquitous beads to the evening’s opening act, a local cajun band. The second band was the Hysters, the crowd-pleasing big band of Anchor Brewery workers, and the final act was the Rolling Boil Blues Band. There were 50 beers from 15 breweries and food was prepared on site by Jeremy Sowers’ Emergency BBQ. Jeremy is also a local brewer, with gigs at Jack’s in Fremont along with Devil’s Canyon. Many of the Bay Area’s beer cognoscenti was on hand to enjoy the revelry, and we had a number of surprise guests from out of town, too. The Trumer folks were gracious hosts, providing a shuttle to and from the Shattuck BART station, along with much else. This was the second year this event was held at Trumer and it’s felling like home already for future anniversary parties.

Host for the evening Tom Dalldorf, publisher of the Celebrator.

Tim Blasquez and the gang from Sierra Nevada Brewing.

Bob Brewer from Anchor Brewery serves up the new Anchor Bock to Portland beer sage Fred Eckhardt.

Ed Chainey from Anderson Valley Brewing.

Kenny Gross with Ommegang.

Natalie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing.

Jeremy Sowers from Emergency BBQ, who prepared the food for the event.

Kendra belts out a tune with the Hyster’s, the band made up of Anchor Brewery employees.

Some party-goers sat and enjoyed the beers.

While others danced to the music.

While still others talked with old friends. Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing with Chris Black, co-owner of the Falling Rock in Denver. Plus, it was Chris’ birthday.

Melissa Myers and Rodger Davis from Drake’s Brewing sandwich Cynthia Kralj, co-owner of the Bistro.

Jamie Jurado, Director of Brewing Operations for Gambrinus (and who own Trumer Brauerei) and Lars Larson, brewmaster of Trumer Brauerei.

Judy Ashworth, Fred Eckhardt and Lori Ashworth.

Beer chef Bruce Paton from Cathedral Hill Hotel and Pat Mace, from Lagunitas Brewing.

Roger Lind, the original Jolly Roger from Lind’s Brewing which is now Drake’s and Steve Altimari, brewmaster from Valley Brewing in Stockton.

Jen Garris, from Magnolia, and Matt Salie, from Big Sky Brewing.

L.A. Celebrator correspondent Don Erickson finds a quiet place to enjoy his barbecue and pulled pork.

The Rolling Boil Blues Band.

Boil front man Tom Dalldorf.

In true Mardi Gras fashion, the band throw beads to the audience.

Who shout for attention and for beads to thrown in their direction.

At the end of the evening, from left: Shaun O’Sullivan, from 21st Amendment, Fred Eckhardt, a woman who wanted this picture taken, me, Tom Dalldorf and a brewer from Brewmasters, whose name is now sadly lost to me.

Filed Under: Events, News Tagged With: Bay Area, California, Photo Gallery

Toronado Barley Wine Festival Results

February 18, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Here are the results from the 2006 Toronado Barley Wine Festival in San Francisco:

 
 

  • 1st Place: Arctic Devil, Midnight Sun Brewing
  • 2nd Place: Old Blue Hair, Big Sky Brewing
  • 3rd Place: Gnarlywine 2004, Lagunitas Brewing

 

Congratulations to all the winners.
 

Filed Under: Events, News Tagged With: Awards, Bay Area, California, Festivals, San Francisco

Photo Gallery: Chocolate & Beer Dinner at Cathedral Hill Hotel

February 18, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Friday night there was a Chocolate & Belgian Beer Dinner at the Cathedral Hill Hotel in San Francisco. Chef Bruce Paton, a.k.a. the Beer Chef, has been putting on these sort of dinners for ten years and is rightly famous for them. The beers for the dinner were Aventinus and all of the imported Chimays. The chocolate was Scharffen Berger. Besides the cocktail hour of Aventinus and chocolatey hors d’oeuvres, there were four courses, each with a different Chimay beer paired with it and chocolate used in the dish itself. First course was Napoleon of Butter Poached Lobster, Artichoke and Celery Root with Chocolate Sauce Americaine paired with Chimay Cinq Cents. The second course was Ravioli of Duck Confit and Cocoa Nibs in Natural Jus with Duck Ham and Micro Arugula paired with Chimay Premiere. Third course was Angus Beef Short Ribs Braised in Chimay with Creamy Grits and Chocolate Balsamic Reduction paired with Chimay Grand Reserve. The fourt and dessert course was a trio of Artisan Chocolate Escapades with Vintage 2000 Chimay Grand Reserve to wash it down. Everything was delicious and the evening was a rollicking success for all.

Beer Chef Bruce Paton addresses the crowd.

Lars Larson, brewmaster at Trumer Brauerei in Berkeley, poses with Judy Ashworth’s daughter, whose holding up the back page of the Celebrator with Lars’ picture on it, and Tom Dalldorf, Celebrator publisher.

Tom Dalldorf with Pete and Amy Slosberg, of Pete’s Wicked fame. Pete’s now doing his own chocolates and they’re quite yummy under the name Cocoa Pete’s.

Fal Allen (who’s now in Singapore), Kate Gaiser (from Washington) and me.

Two Marin brewers. James Costa (from Moylan’s) and Arne Johnson (from Marin Brewing)

Dave Suurballe (from the Toronado), Fal Allen and Shaun O’Sullivan (from 21st Amendment)

Fal and Shaun mug for the camera.

Yes, Shaun that’s mugging for the camera. If you keep making this face I’ll continue calling it mugging.

Matt Salie, who’s now with Big Sky Brewing cracks up Fal and Shaun.

Our yummy dessert plate.

Getting a leg up on dessert.

Chef Bruce Paton (in white) and someone from Scharffen Berger whose name I didn’t catch along with all the brewers present. From left: Arne Johnson, Fal Allen, Lars Larson, Shaun O’Sullivan and James Costa.

Filed Under: Events, Food & Beer, News Tagged With: California, Photo Gallery, San Francisco

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