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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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S.F. Chronicle Recommends Wits for Summer

July 4, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Okay, they’re not exactly going out on a limb recommending whites as a refreshing summer beverage but it’s still nice to see the San Francisco Chronicle mention them. The usual suggestions generally range from white wine to zinfandel so even talking about beer is a good step. Their choices, while mainstream wits, were still good choices and included Hoegaarden, Unibroue Blanche de Chambly — though their new Chambly Noire is fantastic — and Ommegang Witte.

One strange disconnect is that even though these beers are all wonderful — though Hoegaarden used to be better — they are all Belgian or Belgian-style beers and the focus of the Chronicle’s piece was about the 4th of July holiday. Given that it’s also American Beer Month it would have been more appropriate to choose more American beers (even though the BA abandoned it). I don’t mean to sound jingoistic here, but that only makes sense, doesn’t it? It’s not like there aren’t plenty of American beers that could have been celebrated, too. Chronicle wine writer Linda Murphy is one of the mainstrean writers who is at least trying to highlight beer more — she is one of the good guys — so I want to encourage her rather than complain too much. And perhaps most importantly, she actually likes craft beer, itself a rarity among wine writers.

Murphy finishes with a little mini-story about Pierre Celis and his role in the resurrection of the style. Unfortunately the end of the story was Pierre’s return to Belgium which it appears now is happily not the final chapter. Celis is returning to Texas to start another brewery here in the states, which is great news for those of us who find the man charming and his beers a delight.
 

Me at last year’s GABF with brewing legend Pierre Celis, who single-handedly revived the style Hefeweizen in the 1960s.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Mainstream Coverage

A Confusion of Brands: Miller Buys Steel Reserve

July 4, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Okay, maybe the confusion is all on my side, but I’m confused. SABMiller announced the purchase from McKenzie River Partners of Steel Reserve, the leading high gravity beer. High gravity beers are essentially a euphemism for malt liquor. But the McKenzie River Partners that I knew also owned or at least controlled in some fashion Black Star Lager from Great Northern Brewing Co. of Whitefish, Montana.

The original Black Star Lager label and today’s label.

 
I knew at some point that Steel Reserve became the focus of the company but Black Star all but disappeared from the Bay Area, where at one time it actually did pretty well. I confess when the focus changed to malt liquor, I stopped paying attention. I don’t generally think much of high gravity beers — Dogfish Head’s Malt de Liquor notwithstanding — so I tend to ignore news about them. For this reason, this move by Miller to buy even the leading malt liquor for an astonishing $215 million makes little sense. Also in the deal is Sparks, a caffeinated alcoholic malt beverage with added caffeine, guarana and ginseng. But the spin machine makes these two brands sound like Miller’s salvation. I guess time will tell.

From the press release:

The deal immediately strengthens the Miller portfolio with two fast-growing and profitable brands that are defining their respective product categories and far outpacing overall industry growth. Miller also expands its innovation capability and expertise by aligning itself with an entrepreneurial pioneer with a proven track record of creating highly successful, first-mover brands like Steel Reserve and Sparks.

“Sparks and Steel Reserve will have an immediate positive impact on our growth profile,” said Norman Adami, president and CEO of Miller Brewing Company, a wholly owned subsidiary of SABMiller plc. “In addition, our new product development relationship with Minott Wessinger connects us with a very special guy when it comes to innovation.”

Under Mr. Wessinger’s leadership, the Sparks and Steel Reserve brands have grown at triple and double digits respectively. Miller plans to build on their innovative and highly differentiated positionings and continue their impressive growth by leveraging Miller’s first class marketing, sales and distribution platforms.

“I’m very excited about the new relationship with Miller and confident that they will take Sparks and Steel Reserve to the next level with great marketing and sales support,” said Mr. Wessinger. “The U.S. beverage market is changing rapidly and there are tremendous opportunities for us to create new brands that bring value to consumers, wholesalers and retailers.”

Both Sparks and Steel Reserve are already brewed by Miller under a contract brewing agreement with McKenzie River. Under the new agreement, the parties have also agreed to a long-term contract brewing relationship. The majority of Sparks and Steel Reserve volume is currently distributed by U.S. wholesalers who also carry Miller brands.

McKenzie River has successfully built national distribution of both the Sparks and Steel Reserve brands through seeding in independent C-stores followed by expansion into chain convenience stores and supermarkets. Miller intends to increase the channel penetration of the brands.

Besides acquiring great brands, Miller also gains access to Mr. Wessinger’s creativity and entrepreneurial winning streak through a formal product development relationship.

“Our new relationship with McKenzie River will enable Miller to tap into emerging consumer trends and leverage new brands through our national system of distributor partners,” Mr. Adami said.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, National, Press Release

Valley Brews for Summer

July 3, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Stocton’s Valley Brewing has announced two new releases, a Belgian-style wit beer and a weizenbock.

From the press release:

Summer “Soulstice” Wit
5.5% ABV
Both bitter and sweet orange peel, Coriander seed and a little Grains of Paradise, almost borders on a Saison, enjoy.

No More Mr. Weize Guy
7.7% ABV
Big monster for the summer heat. Lots of dried fruits in the nose and flavor with hints of chocolate.

Filed Under: Beers Tagged With: California, Northern California

Avery 13th Anninversary Party Announced

June 30, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Avery Brewing’s 13th Anniversary Party will be held from noon to six on August 6th. The flyer they sent me has all the details:


 

8.6

Avery Anniversary Party (13th annual)

Avery Brewing Co., 5763 Arapahoe Avenue, Unit E, Boulder Colorado
303.440.4324 [ website ] [ map ]

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Announcements, Colorado, Press Release

Brother David Wins Best of Show

June 30, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Anderson Valley Brewing’s Brother David’s Double, in addition to being awarded a gold medal in the Belgian Strong Ale category, was declared “Best of Show” in the Commercial Craft Brewing Competition at the 2006 California State Fair.

From the press release:

“We’re very proud of the Brother David’s Abbey Style Ales,” said Brewery President, Ken Allen. “Not only did Brother David’s Double win the Best of Show, but our Brother David’s Triple received the Third Place Bronze. We think our abbey style ales stand up to just about anything the Belgians themselves are producing, and the public response to these two beers has been very gratifying,” he added.

Certified beer judges and craft brewers from around the state chose the winners at this year’s competition from 411 California beers submitted by 74 breweries in 35 categories. “California Craft Brewers once again show us why they are leaders in the American micro brewing renaissance. They are actively pushing the industry forward with high levels of quality and
stylistic innovations,” said J.J. Jackson, state fair craft brew competition organizer. He described Brother David’s Double as “a unique, stylistic beer and one that I enjoyed tasting after the judges awarded it.”

Vic Kralj, co-owner of the Bistro, with the real Brother David, Dave Keene, owner of the Toronado.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Awards, California, Northern California, Press Release

Beer, America & the U.S. Constitution

June 30, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Today two things conspired to make me think about the upcoming Independence Day holiday. First, today is the anniversary of an interesting event that took place in a Philadelphia bar that perhaps made America in its present form possible. If had not been for the the social lubricant of ale and the camaraderie that can only be formed over a pint, compromise might not have been possible and things today might be very different. Who can say for sure? Beer historian Gregg Smith tells it best:

The great diarist of the Constitutional Convention was James Madison of Virginia. His choice of quarters was the India Queen Tavern where there was always a beer at the ready, and it was in the tap room of the India Queen that a new form of government would be created on the evening of June 30, 1787. Up till then smaller states worried they’d be at the mercy of their more populous neighbors, and of course larger states were intent on maintaining their influence. But on that night Madison orchestrated a meeting between Roger Sherman of Connecticut and John Rutledge of Virginia. It was there, in the tap room, that the concept of the legislative branch of the United States was conceived. So it’s not incorrect to say that the Senate and House of Representatives were born in an ale-house.

Note to neo-prohibtionists: See, not all drinking is bad. You might not have a country in which to peddle your fractious agenda were it not for beer.

The second thing was the new advert from Anhesuer-Busch’s Here’s to Beer cmpaign, which is slated to run as a full-page ad in USA Today on July 4th. I have, of course, said a few less-than-flattering things about this campaign but I do like this ad. It’s very well done and works on several levels. It conveys the very important message that beer is, in fact, an integral part of history and our own heritage. This is a lesson we all need to remember and those who seek to remove alcohol from society most of all. Remember that as you toast America’s birthday on the Fourth with a glass of your favorite beer. Here’s to beer!

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Eastern States, History, National

“Beer Is Healthier Than Wine!”

June 28, 2006 By Jay Brooks

At the annual meeting of the Institute of Food Technologists, one of my professors from UC Davis, Charles Bamforth — the Anheuser-Busch endowed Professor of Brewing Science — said “Beer, if you looked at it holistically, is healthier than wine. But it is not perceived that way.” Citing soluble fiber, vitamin B12, folic acid, niacin and antioxidants such as polyphenols and ferulic acid — not to mention recent findings about positive aspects of hops — there are many ways in which beer is a very healthy beverage. In addition, the active ingredient in alcohol, regardless of what drink, helps counter blockage of the arteries.

Sadly, very few people either realize this and many simply refuse to believe it, more than likely due more to social politics than reality. Of course the mainstream media’s bias against beer doesn’t help, either. In a recent poll, most people incorrecly identified beer as containing sugar, fat and preservatives. Bamforth further remarked that many in the medical establishment are the ones perpetuating myths and circulating misinformation about beer. He told the audience. “I have a friend who is a doctor who says, ‘don’t drink beer because it has fat’. There’s no fat in it at all.” Bamforth also believes the beer industry has not championed the positive health benefits of beer in order to avoid the perception of encouraging drinking, and especially underage drinking.

Bamforth is also the author of the book Beer: Health and Nutrition

Charles M. Bamforth, Professor of Brewing at the University of California at Davis

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Health & Beer

Not Sneering

June 28, 2006 By Jay Brooks

belgium
There was a decent article about beer and food pairing in today’s St. Petersburg (Florida) Times called “Don’t Sneer at Beer.” It starts out a little bizarre and I found the headline off-putting, but perhaps the author’s assuming people don’t know you can eat … and drink beer, too. His first sentence. “This may come as a shock, but you can drink beer and eat food at the same time.” Happily, he talks about Belgian beers and how well they work with cheese and many other foods. There’s some decent information for the uninitiated and does a better job than others I’ve read.

Filed Under: Food & Beer, News Tagged With: Belgium, Europe, Mainstream Coverage, Southern States

Laughing Dogs & Huckleberries

June 27, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Laughing Dog Brewing of Ponderay, Idaho (the Sandpoint area) announced the release of their newest ale, a Huckleberry Cream Ale. The summer season, which will be available in six-packs and on draft through August, was brewed with several hundred pounds of crushed huckleberries. You can read all about it in the Bonner County Daily Bee.

Co-owner Fred Colby with his new Huckleberry Cream Ale.

Huckleberries

Wikipedia has some information about huckleberries, which are only grown in the Pacific Northwest region of the U.S. There’s also more about them at Northwest Berry.

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Seasonal Release, Western States

EU Rules in Favor of Bud

June 27, 2006 By Jay Brooks

I saw this yesterday and have been dreading talking about it, because it’s an issue that I have mixed feelings about, but mostly it just pisses me off. The European Union’s Office for Harmonization in the Internal Market Board of Appeal (now that’s a bureaucratic name if ever there was one) has ruled that “Anheuser-Busch can register it’s trademark “Bud” beer throughout Europe.”

This is just the latest salvo in a global slugfest with Czech brewer Budejovicky Budvar. Because of the dispute, Budvar is marketed as Czechvar here in the U.S. as well as many other countries, the ones in which they’ve lost court battles with A-B over the name. An earlier post I did also detailed Budvar’s take on the dispute. Yesterday’s ruling is also subject to appeal so I suspect that Budvar will in fact do just that.

Here’s Wikipedia’s summary of the ongoing dispute:

Although Budějovický Budvar was founded in the 13th century, Anheuser-Busch claims that the Czech brewer has been distributing Budweiser as a commercial brand only since 1895, 19 years after the Budweiser brand was first brewed by Anheuser-Busch [which was 1876]. The Czech company contends that its history, and thus its claim to the Budweiser name, goes back even further. King Otakar II of Bohemia granted independent brewers in the city of Budweis the right to produce beer as early as 1265. They did so in a style that became known as “Budweiser,” much as beers brewed in the fashion of another Czech city, Plzeň (German: Pilsen), are referred to as “Pilsner”, the company says.

In many countries, the beer produced by Budějovický Budvar is the only beer that may be sold as “Budweiser” — in those countries, the American Budweiser is usually marketed as “Bud.” Since both Budějovický Budvar and Anheuser-Busch have trademarks for the name “Budweiser”, they have been party to many lawsuits in a number of countries. In some places where it competes with the American Budweiser it is marketed with the names Budvar and Budweiser Budvar. Separate lawsuits have been filed in dozens of countries, including many in Europe and I’m not sure how this ruling effects the earlier local decisions.

Budějovický Budvar recently started having limited distribution in the USA and Canada under the name Czechvar. Due to its ongoing dispute with Anheuser-Busch, it cannot be sold in A-B’s home state of Missouri; however, customers have crossed borders to Kansas or Illinois, where liquor stores have posted signs reading “Yes, We Have The REAL Budweiser!”

From the AP wire story:

The Czech brewery was founded in 1895 in a town called “Budweis” by the German immigrants who founded it – a beer brewed there would have been known as a Budweiser. Anheuser-Busch launched its own U.S. Budweiser brand in 1876, picking the name because it evoked German brewers but was still easy for U.S. consumers to pronounce.

So A-B in fact acknowledges that the town of Budweis was the inspiration for Budweiser.

The AP wire story continues:

“We are making solid progress in our battle to protect the brand names we’ve developed,” Stephen Burrows, president and chief executive officer of Anheuser-Busch International, said in a news release. “As a result, Anheuser-Busch can sell its flagship brand under the Budweiser or Bud brand in 30 European countries.”

The Czech company has argued that the name “Budweiser” should only refer to beer brewed in a certain area, in the same way Greek Feta cheese can only be produced in certain regions.

Anheuser-Busch has argued that the term Budweiser is simply slang used by German immigrants — the Czech company’s hometown is officially named Ceske Budejovice.

The European appeal board agreed the term Budweiser isn’t a special label, or “appellation” in legal-speak, according to Anheuser-Busch.

In addition, a related dispute has recently been highlighted because of the current World Cup. Bitburger, which has been around since 1817, markets their beer under the name “Bit” or “Bit Beer” which German courts have said is too close to Bud and that Bit has the prior claim in this case. This has caused some trouble for Bud’s sponsorship as the exclusive beer of the World Cup tournament.

As I said, I have mixed feeling about this issue. On the one hand, A-B did start using the name itself in 1876. That may or may not have been before Budvar did. It’s hard to say since their claim of a brewery being in Budweis since the 13th Century seems sound but whether or not the beer from that brewery was called Budweiser (or something similar) is frustratingly hard to prove to everybody’s satisfaction. Was the Nineteenth Century as fanatically obsessive about IP rights and trademarks as we are today? It certainly feels right that a beer made in Budweiss would be called Budweiser. It just rolls of the tongue so easily that it seems obvious, but that may simply be because we’ve all grown up knowing the name Budweiser precisely because of A-B’s efforts to promote the brand name. It’ all but impossible to tell. A-B argues that Budvar wasn’t sold commercially until 1895, but what is the definition of commercially? What was it in the 19th Century? They were probably selling beer in Budweiss/Budvar before 1895. They may not have been bottling it, but they were probably calling it something, even if they didn’t write it down. It’s likely that’s the way business was done all over the region. The industrial revolution didn’t happen all at once all over the world, so pre-industrial business that was less formal and more dependent on relationships and locality doesn’t seem like much of a stretch to me.

But even if we accept A-B’s argument that it’s been using the name longer and therefore Budvar ought not to be allowed to use the name of their town, I don’t quite understand it. Budvar and Bud are clearly not the same name, and both are different from Bit. A-B, of course, fiercely objected to and fought the name “Budvar” as being too close to “Bud.” This is the same trouble with “Bit,” too. Maybe I’m giving mankind too much credit, but I think people can tell the difference between “Bud,” “Budvar” and “Bit” even though they’re all beers. The packaging on all three is very different, bottles are different and certainly they taste differently. “Bit” and “Budvar” taste closer to one another than they do to Budweiser. Again, perhaps this is just me, but if you’re too stupid to notice the difference than maybe you’ve already had enough to drink. I’ve been involved in one of these trademark disputes over a contract beer I used to manage and the thing I noticed was that whoever is trying to protect their trademark is generally incapable of perspective. It’s an all or nothing attitude that makes compromise all but impossible. I’ve been literally screamed at for suggesting just such a thing. But I think most of us consumers could agree that having “Bud,” “Budvar” and “Bit” on our store shelves would not be much of a problem for us. We could figure out what we wanted to buy without too much effort.

Let’s test that, shall we. Let’s say you’re in a store looking at the beer on the shelf. Here’s what you see:

 
Tell the truth, could you easily distinguish which brand was which? Could you tell they’re weren’t the same? If you say no you either work for one of them or need to have your eyesight checked.

Okay, so let’s say now you’re at a bar and you want to order what the fellow has sitting on the table next to you. Here’s what you see there:

 
Is that too confusing for you? Do they all look the same? Do they even look similar? Does seeing this sight lead you to “brand confusion?” Of course not, that’s what we have eyes for.

We roam store after store buying everything under the sun and we manage to get what we want almost all of the time. I don’t mean to seem so condescending and I’ll apologize in advance, but here goes. Once upon a time in what seems like a previous life, I was a record buyer for a large chain of record stores on the east coast. They’re no longer in business but when I was there they were in thirty states and were the second largest record chain in the country. A couple of times a year a salesman from Disney would come by whining that the home office gets complaint after complaint because a customer was in a record store and bought a book and tape of Peter Pan (or whatever) and when they got it home it wasn’t the Disney Peter Pan but some knock off. Gasp! Oh, the horror. Invariably they’d point to it being on a Disney rack that they’d given to the store expecting us to keep it non-Disney free. Well like most retailers, we took a dim view of a supplier telling us what to merchandise and where. But here’s the thing. Even though the Peter Pan knock-off had the same exact name it looked so different from the Disney one that pretty much only a person whose I.Q. dipped safely into single digits could have confused the two. That’s not brand confusion, it’s just confusion period. And on some level, that’s the way I view these trademark catfights.

There will always be people who will be confused and we can’t — and shouldn’t — create a world so simple for them that rest of us are miserable. If you need the instructions printed on your bottle of shampoo, I’m talking to you. If you don’t know coffee is hot, listen up. If you can’t tell Bud, Budvar and Bit apart, it’s your problem and we shouldn’t kill a company’s heritage because some yahoo might get confused and buy a brand different than he intended to.

All three of these brands are legitimate brands who have all been doing business for more than a hundred years. When they were all relatively regional brands or at least stayed within their own country’s borders, there was no problem. But as the world’s commerce grows increasingly global in scope we have to find a better way then simply determining winners and losers. Because invariably whoever has the more aggresive posture and pays more legal fees is going to win. Especially when there is very little black and white to these arguments, who prevails has less to do with justice and more to do with who carries the biggest stick.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, International, Law

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