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The Next Big Little Niche

August 8, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Well I’ve known it’s been coming for a while now and have been sitting on it, because I’ve been researching a story about gluten-free beers. Today, Miller’s BrewBlog broke the story that Anheuser-Busch is readying a gluten-free beer for the market.

From the BrewBlog:

The brewer [A-B] on July 31 filed a brand label registration with the state of Missouri for a product called Red Bridge Sorghum beer. A-B previously had filed a trademark application with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office.

A-B appears intent on jumping on a small bandwagon of brewers making beer with sorghum instead of barley. The dominant industry leader already has demonstrated its commitment to attacking tiny niches by rolling out organic beers.

Beers made with sorghum can be consumed by people with a condition called celiac disease. Exposure to gluten — a protein found in barley — triggers digestive problems in people with the disease.

Several craft brewers currently produce gluten-free beers. Unfortunately, because of ridiculously puritanical labeling restrictions that forbid any health claims on alcohol labels along with the fact the FDA has been criminally slow to adopt any standard of what gluten-free means (Europe by contrast has had a standard in place for years), they can’t really be labeled as gluten-free. Here’s a sample of gluten-free beers currently available from U.S. craft brewers:

  • Dragon’s Gold, from Bard’s Tale Beer
  • Hooligan Pale Ale, from Widmer Brothers Brewing
  • New Grist, from Lakefront Brewery
  • Passover Honey Beer, from Ramapo Valley Brewery

In addition, brewers in Australia, Belgium, France, Italy and the United Kingdom are all producing gluten-free beers. The gluten-free seminar at this year’s Craft Brewers Conference was surprisingly well-attended. When I queried several brewers there, I got the same response from all of them. “We get a lot of customers asking about this.”

My interest in these beers comes originally from my son, Porter, who is autistic. In reading about Autism Spectrum Disorder, I’ve discovered that a common symptom among the constellation of autistic indicators is stomach problems and often times a gluten-free diet helps immensely. Like much about autism, scientists and doctors aren’t exactly sure why this happens but I’m glad so far Porter doesn’t show signs of having this problem. But there are also millions of Celiac sufferers worldwide, and the number is growing. People with celiac disease, likewise, must also abstain from gluten, a part of most grains like barley and wheat. One out of every 133 people in the U.S. has celiac disease.

Here’s a short description of celiac disease from the Celiac Disease Foundation:

A lifelong autoimmune intestinal disorder, found in individuals who are genetically susceptible. Damage to the mucosal surface of the small intestine is caused by an immunologically toxic reaction to the ingestion of gluten and interferes with the absorption of nutrients. Celiac Disease (CD) is unique in that a specific food component, gluten, has been identified as the trigger. Gluten is the common name for the offending proteins in specific cereal grains that are harmful to persons with CD. These proteins are found in all forms of wheat (including durum, semolina, spelt, kamut, einkorn, and faro), and related grains, rye, barley, and triticale and must be eliminated.

It seems obvious to me that this is the next big small niche beer. I know that last statement was oxymoronic, but hear me out. Gluten-free beers aren’t going to be as popular as light beer or even porters, but with 1-in-133 Americans with celiac disease combined with thousands, perhaps millions, of autistic kids on gluten-free diets who will begin reaching the age of majority in the coming years, and you’ve got a sizable little market that’s likely to emerge. Now that A-B is entering this market, more attention will surely be focused on it. And A-B, regardless of anything else you can say about them, doesn’t take any action without first having thoroughly researched, tested and studied the market. So look for many more gluten-free beers in the market soon.

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Business, National

Zen and the Art of Craft Beer

August 1, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Here’s an interesting item sent to me by fellow beer writer Lisa Morrison. It appeared on one of the television websites she writes for, in this case WISN Channel 2 out of Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

BluCreek Brewing from Madison, Wisconsin, is releasing a new IPA in August made with green tea called Zen IPA. The idea is to combine the positive health benefits of green tea with the positive health benefits of beer. It is believed to be the first of its kind, a beer with the taste of green tea flavor.

From BluCreek’s website:

An intense infusion of fresh Chinook, Cascade, and Centennial hops combined with natural green tea imparts this traditional English-style Pale Ale (English IPA) with something a little beyond the ordinary… A little extraordinary!

A beer that transcends beyond anything you have ever experienced before, the smooth and subtle green tea aroma and taste perfectly compliment the refreshing crispness of an English IPA. The result will satisfy those who are looking for something more mystical… magical… wonderful. Created for the IPA lover interested in more than just substantial hops character.

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Health & Beer, Midwest

Melting Ice Cap Beer

July 31, 2006 By Jay Brooks

I’m not sure if I should celebrate this or run screaming through the night as yet another unmistakable sign of global warming, but Greenland Brewhouse is making two beers using ice water from melting ice caps in Greenland. The water is at least 2,000 years old. I think when they claim it’s in the water, we can probably believe them. There is more interesting information in an AP article on the story.

Currently the brewery makes only a pale ale and brown ale, with plans for a Christmas beer later this year. The beer is sold now only in Denmark but the brewery says importers in Germany and America have shown interest in carrying the beer.

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: International

Landmark Returns

July 26, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Landmark Beer Co., of Syracuse, New York, after a bit of a false start, has switxhed their contract brewery to Wagner Valley Brewing and the first two beers from their new relationship should be out shortly. Brewer/owner Kiernan May reworked the recipe for his India Red Ale (which was previously available beginning in 2004) and re-named it Colonel Hops Red Ale.

From the press release:

The former India Red Ale will be renamed Colonel Hops Red Ale. May’s new recipe has three times as much hops as the old beer, and since those hops are Centennial and Cascade, it will have the citrusy overtones and bitterness of a classic West Coast pale ale. It’ll be about 6 percent alcohol, or about a percentage point higher than a Budweiser.

The second beer, brand new, is Vanilla Bean Brown Ale. It’s an English-style brown ale, with the addition of Madagascar vanilla beans. It’s 4.8 percent alcohol.

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Eastern States

Valley Brews for Summer

July 3, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Stocton’s Valley Brewing has announced two new releases, a Belgian-style wit beer and a weizenbock.

From the press release:

Summer “Soulstice” Wit
5.5% ABV
Both bitter and sweet orange peel, Coriander seed and a little Grains of Paradise, almost borders on a Saison, enjoy.

No More Mr. Weize Guy
7.7% ABV
Big monster for the summer heat. Lots of dried fruits in the nose and flavor with hints of chocolate.

Filed Under: Beers Tagged With: California, Northern California

Laughing Dogs & Huckleberries

June 27, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Laughing Dog Brewing of Ponderay, Idaho (the Sandpoint area) announced the release of their newest ale, a Huckleberry Cream Ale. The summer season, which will be available in six-packs and on draft through August, was brewed with several hundred pounds of crushed huckleberries. You can read all about it in the Bonner County Daily Bee.

Co-owner Fred Colby with his new Huckleberry Cream Ale.

Huckleberries

Wikipedia has some information about huckleberries, which are only grown in the Pacific Northwest region of the U.S. There’s also more about them at Northwest Berry.

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Seasonal Release, Western States

Coors: Destroying Beer on Purpose?

June 26, 2006 By Jay Brooks

If your product is virtually indistinguishable from most of your major competitors, then you make yourself stand out through marketing and advertising. No gimmick is off-limits if it will steer customers to pick up your product instead of the other guys. This seems especially true of the makers of American-style lagers like Bud, Miller and Coors along with the pilsner-derived imports like Heineken, Corona and Stella Artois, to name but a few. Over the years we’ve seen some entertaining — if pointless — ad campaigns for all of them. Creative promotions, merchandising, sponsorships of sports teams and events, logo’d clothing, hats, towels — you name it — and a new product for every new trend of the moment (remember the dry beers, ice beers, low-carb beers, etc.). We’ve come to expect the ridiculous and shake our heads at the inanity. Unfortunately, many times the ads and novelties seem to undermine beers very image and over time have contributed to beer being perceived as something wholly different than it really is.

But even with all that history and low expectations behind it, the latest move by Coors to bring to market — at great expense — a beer to be served at below freezing simply boggles the mind. Now generally when beer dips below freezing ingredients begin to break down, primarily the proteins which come out of solution. This causes them to separate and form small flakes that swim around in the beer and make it cloudy. Of course, because of the alcohol beer freezes at a point that’s already slightly below freezing, the exact point depending on the percentage of alcohol. Alcohol itself freezes at -173° F.

This is also the reason frosted, frozen glasses stored in the freezer are such a terrible idea. They also chemically alter the beer and change its taste. The reason you generally don’t notice it is simply because drinking any liquid at that temperature also numbs many of your taste buds. Several volatile components in the beer aren’t released in your mouth and disappear undetected down your throat. The beer’s flavor profile is considerably narrowed and some tastes disappear completely. Cold beer also effects the beer’s balance because hop character survives better than malt or fruity esters. This is the reason bland lagers, which are generally less well-hopped, do better at cold temperatures and explains why ales are generally served at warmer temperatures. A good rule of thumb is the colder the beer, the less of it you can actually taste.

So Coors has launched Coors Sub-Zero, a beer that is chilled down to -2.5° C (27.5° F)

According to Coors’ press release, it “uses space age technology developed in Britain [at Burton-on-Trent]; its patented pouring process naturally forms soft crystals of the crispest, cleanest, ultra-cold lager that melt away in the mouth. Best of all, they keep Coors Sub Zero cooler for longer, giving sensational refreshment and taste.” The pricetag was more than £10 million (over $18 million USD).

The beer delivers an entirely new taste experience. The soft frozen lager crystals create a subtle sensation of snow on your tongue. And the super-chilling, along with the clean, clear taste of the lager, combine to create an extraordinary, refreshing crispness.

The way Coors Sub Zero is poured is technically and physically unlike anything else behind a bar in Britain. During the one-minute, fully automated pour-process, the specially made beer glass constantly revolves on a turntable – creating what must be the most impressive beer-pouring spectacle ever seen.

Hmm, frankly I’m more impressed by taste than space-age technology and a magic show, but maybe that’s just me.

Coors describes what the experience will look like in a bar:

To serve the beer, as either a pint or a half, the bartender puts on a ‘science show’ for the customer:

  1. The glass is placed on the turntable and the launch button is pressed [which cools it with a spray of cold water]
  2. [The lager is stored at high pressure and is poured into the glass at a temperature of -2.5C.]
  3. The glass is rinsed with chilled water before the lager is dispensed at sub zero temperature [high pressure makes the beer stay cold and keeps it from freezing]
  4. Two seconds before the end of the pour comes the ‘sonic trigger’ – a process of ‘supernucleation’ which causes soft frozen lager crystals to gather in the top of the glass [these are ultrasonic waves which form crystals of ice around the gas bubbles]
  5. Finally, the condensation that has formed during the pour is removed — and a crystal clear pint is presented to the customer

[my additional explanations]

What’s stranger still is where the beer is being launched. Great Britain’s wonderful ales are best consumed at temperatures much, much warmer than freezing. In fact, the English consume very few beverages at even a cool temperature, much less at freezing. Trying to find ice in a British restaurant is maddeningly impossible for us uncouth Americans. So it’s strange to see quotes that people there want colder beer. That seems a bit odd to me.

Here’s the Coors spin machine at work:

Said Stuart Renshaw, Head of Marketing for International & Portfolio Brands for Coors Brewers: “We have listened to consumers and their requests for colder and colder beer. With Coors Sub Zero the cold beer lover’s dream has finally come true – a pint that stays cold right to the bottom of the glass and the first ever pint that actually seems to get colder in your hand.

“Coors Sub Zero is the perfect ice cold refreshment. It brings together traditional brewing excellence and 21st century dispense technology to deliver a unique drinking sensation”.

Scientist Dr Alan Samson, who has worked on Sub Zero since 1998, said: ‘For years companies have been trying to pull a truly cold pint, but now the technology has caught up.

‘It is a natural phenomenon ‘ nothing is added or taken away to the lager. The only problem is that we wasted 8 million pints getting it right.’

It seems to me they spent a lot of money and are now trying to create a market for it, rather than the other way around. One hundred pubs are expected to have the special system installed by the year’s end with the first in sometime next month.

In the end, it’s hard not to view this development as an abomination since it perpetuates the myth that beer must be as cold as possible, or now perhaps even colder. This is bad for the perception of beer in general and helps only those beers that would suffer for being consumed at a warmer temperature. And we all know who they are.

Filed Under: Beers, Editorial, News Tagged With: Business, Europe, Great Britain

OB Blue

June 26, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Oriental Brewery, more commonly known as simply “OB,” is the second largest brewery and sells the third most popular brand in South Korea and is probably the best known outside of Korea. Purchased by InBev in 2003, their OB Lager was renamed just OB. A re-tooled version of OB Beer, the original formulation created in 1948, which was before the brewery was even called OB, is being released today under the brand name “OB Blue.”

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Asia, Business

Suma Foods to Brew Organic Beer

June 23, 2006 By Jay Brooks

According to the splash page on their website, Suma is the UK’s largest independent wholesaler and distributor of quality vegetarian, fairly traded, organic and natural foods. There are around 7,000 products listed that they either make or distribute. You can now add one more to their list: organic beer.

Today’s Yorkshire Post gave a few scant details on the project. From the article:

The UK’s biggest independent distributor of organic food, Halifax-based Suma Foods, has launched a range of organic beers. The beers are all CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) approved, certified organic by the Soil Association and are vegan.

The beer is brewed locally by a Dutch master brewer who the company has been working with over the past 18 months to develop the range.

The names for the beers were chosen by Suma’s customers in a competition and reflect local places and folklore in the Calder Valley.

Though curiously the names of the beers were not revealed and Suma’s somewhat sparse website gives no details either. Now that’s good reporting.

Filed Under: Beers, News Tagged With: Business, Europe, Great Britain, Organic

He’Brew National Release Party at the Toronado

June 23, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Last night my friend Jeremy Cowan held a National Release Party for his two new beers, Genesis 10:10, Shmaltz Brewing’s 10th anniversary beer, and Lenny’s R.I.P.A, a Rye Double IPA in honor of Lenny Bruce, who died forty years ago this year. As usual, the Toronado was jumping and there were several friends in attendance. Mercifully, it was no longer opressively hot and a nice cool breeze was circulating around the Toronado, which is quite unusual in my experience.

And the beginning of his kingdom was Babel, and Erech, and Accad, and Calneh, in the land of Shinar.

— Genesis 10:10, KJV

In case you’re curious, this chapter of the Torah/Bible concerns the history of Noah and the other survivors’ offspring post-flood and this verse is talking specifically about Nimrod.

I’d tasted the Genesis 10:10 a couple of weeks ago and it’s a really terrific strong beer. The original Genesis Ale, from ten years ago, had pomegranates in it so Jeremy used pomegranate juice in the anniversary ale. As I understand it, it was added to fermentation about halfway through and as a result the yeast didn’t drop out for a week longer than expected. I don’t know if that’s the reason or not, but you’d never know from tasting this beer that it’s 10% abv.

The RIPA used 20% rye, which is a lot, but it’s not overpowering in the final beer. Personally I like rye, so perhaps I have a higher tolerance for it than most. To me rye does more for the mouthfeel and texture than for flavor though the distinctive rye character was certainly present there, too, especially when enjoying it with a sandwich on rye bread, which I made for myself while I was there. This is a great twist on an imperial IPA and the rye makes it stand out — in a good way — from the usual doubles.

At the Toronado last night for He’Brew’s release party. From left: Alec Moss, Half Moon Bay Brewing, Pete Slosberg, formerly of Pete’s Wicked Ales and now making Cocoa Pete’s Chocolates, Jeremy Cowan of Shmaltz Brewing and Rodger Davis of Drake’s Brewing.

Last one to stick his nose in his glass buys a round. Sorry Alec.

Filed Under: Beers, Events Tagged With: California, San Francisco, Seasonal Release

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