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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Here We Go a-WASSAIL-ing

November 2, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Today is the 18th anniversary of the first release of Full Sail Brewing’s holiday beer, Wassail.

Full Sail’s holiday favorite was inspired by the traditional English wassail, which is a “spiced ale or mulled wine drunk during celebrations for Twelfth Night and Christmas Eve.” The word itself’s origin is Old Norse and is a contraction of the Old English toast “wæs þu hæl,” or “be thou hale!” (“be in good health“).

The Wassail Page has some great history and information about wassailing. Their aim is to “seek the true revelry and rant so absent from modern celebration. [They] seek an older time when the human spirit shouted for joy in the winter creating a festive gift which could not be purchased and could hardly be wrapped.”

Traditional Wassail celebrations were most commonly associated with Twelfth Night Eve and Twelfth Night celebrations, though in modern times is has been expanded to include the entire holiday season. In addition to the wassail drink, there are numerous customs surrounding Wassail, including “singing, mumming, guessing games and begging to enter a house.” Three distinct celebrations involving the Wassail are known. In the first, the wassail is used like a loving cup and passed around inside a house while singing carols. Secondly, you can take the wassail from house to house in a group. And the third, though less common, method involves the blessing of nature.

Here’s an old wassail song from around 1833:

The nut-brown ale, the nut-brown ale,
Puts downe all drinke when it is stale,
The toast, the nut-meg, and the ginger,
Will make a sighing man a singer,
Ale gives a buffet in the head,
“But ginger under proppes the brayne;
When ale would strike a strong man dead,
Then nut-megge temperes it againe,
The nut-brown ale, the nut-brown ale,
Puts downe all drinke when it is stale-

From the press release:

“We have brewed Wassail every holiday season since 1988 and it’s now as much a part of the festivities as sharing a roaring fire with our closest family and friends,” reminisced Jamie Emmerson, Full Sail’s brewmaster. “Deep mahogany in color, Wassail is brewed with four different malts and a blend of imported hops, giving it a malty full body and a pleasantly hoppy finish that appeals to both hop and malt lovers alike. In other words, a Christmas miracle!”

Wassail was recently awarded another medal and was rated “Exceptional” at the 2006 World Beer Championships (WBC). It was described as, “Tremendously rich and dry – yet fruity and balanced – with rich roasted malt dry caramel, nuts and light spice… Perfectly balanced. Not too sweet; not too dry. Excellent!” Wassail previously won a platinum medal and a “superlative” rating at the 2005 WBC, a gold medal at the 2004 WBC, and three silver medals in 1999, 2000 and 2001.

Filed Under: Beers Tagged With: Holidays, Oregon, Press Release, Seasonal Release

Union Tribune Profiles Jeff Bagby

November 2, 2006 By Jay Brooks

San Diego’s Union Tribune yesterday featured an engaging profile of award-winning Pizza Port brewer Jeff Bagby. Since I’m usually railing against coverage in the mainstream media, I want to point out that the Tribune’s columnist Peter Rowe (who frequently writes about beer) did an excellent job on the article. In addition to the profile, he also had tasting notes for some of Bagby’s beers, and — unlike the San Francisco Chronicle — listed all the GABF medals won by local breweries then finished up with a list of upcoming beer events in San Diego. Well done, and congratulations Jeff.
 

Dave Keene, from the Toronado, with Jeff Bagby, at the recent Port Brewing Beer Dinner that was held at the Cathedral Hill Hotel by beer chef Bruce Paton.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: California, Mainstream Coverage, Profiles, San Diego

Sam’s “Extreme Brewing” Published

November 1, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Sam Calagione’s newest book, Extreme Brewing: An Enthusiast’s Guide to Brewing Craft Beer at Home, was published today. This one is more about homebrewing than his last book, Brewing Up a Business, which was all about his iconoclastic marketing style. If you know Sam, you’ve got to love this quote from Forbes. “The Italian word for chutzpah is audacia, but it might as well be ‘Sam A. Calagione.’”

And here’s a description of the book from the publisher:

Extreme Brewing is a recipe-driven resource for aspiring home brewers who are interested in recreating these specialty beers at home, but don’t have the time to learn the in-depth science and lore behind home-brewing. As such, all recipes are malt-syrup based (the simplest brewing method) with variations for partial-grain brewing. While recipes are included for classic beer styles — ales and lagers — Extreme Brewing has a unique emphasis on hybrid styles that use fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices to create unique flavor combinations. Once their brew is complete, readers can turn to section three, The Rewards of Your Labor, to receive guidance on presentation, including corking, bottle selection and labeling as well as detailed information on food pairings, including recipes for beer infused dishes and fun ideas for themed dinners that allow the reader to share their creations with family and friends.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Beer Books, Eastern States, Homebrewing

Racer 5 Pours Racer 5

November 1, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Allison Cook pulls a fresh Racer 5 in her Racer 5 Halloween costume last night at the Bistro in Hayward, California. If that doesn’t get your motor racing, nothing will.

(Photo and story courtesy of Tom Dalldorf)

Filed Under: Just For Fun Tagged With: Bay Area, California, Photo Gallery

Craft Beer at Salone del Gusto

November 1, 2006 By Jay Brooks

If you’re not familiar with the Slow Food organization or its American counterpart, Slow Food USA, you should be. The idea started in Italy but has spread around the world. Essentially, they celebrate food in its more traditional guise, using natural and local ingredients, taking time to both prepare and enjoy the meal, paired with the finest beverages, whether it’s beer, wine or something else that compliments the meal perfectly. Their three guiding principles are good, clean and fair.

It’s also a perfect fit for the craft beer industry and the Brewers Association has been sending a team of representatives armed with some of our best beers to the Salone del Gusto in Torino (a.k.a. Turin), Italy for the last four times the event has been held, which is every two years. This year’s event was the sixth biennial festival and celebrates all manner of great food and drink from around the world. The five-day event includes opportunities to taste hundreds of flavors, taste workshops, full dinner experiences, lectures, education along with much more.

In addition, another event was taking place the same week nearby, called Terra Madre, that is a world meetup of people and organizations that produce good, clean and fair food with an emphasis on sustainable farming and food. The city of Santa Rosa selected Vinne and Natalie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing to be their representatives at Terra Madre. The whole experience sounds fantastic and hopefully I’ll be able to attend one of these years. The pictures below are courtesy of Shaun O’Sullivan from 21st Amendment Brewery. Thanks Shaun.

The Brewers Association booth at Salone del Gusto in Torino, Italy

Eric Wallace from Left Hand Brewing works the booth. It was very popular with the Italians, Expats, students and visitors from the U.S. You could get a taster of three beers for 3 Euros. Half the proceeds from the booth were donated to the Slow Food Movement. You could also purchase beer which was very popular with the Americans living abroad.

Shaun O’Sullivan from 21st Amendment in San Francisco, California poses with Charlie Papazian and a fuzzy Nancy Johnson of the Brewers Association.

Lorenzo Dabove, the “Michael Jackson” of Italy, along with Cantillon owners Claude and Jean-Pierre Van Roy.

Filed Under: Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: Europe, Festivals, International, Photo Gallery

Reeling in the Dogfish Head Beer Dinner

November 1, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Beer Chef Bruce Paton’s next beer dinner will feature Sam Calagione and the beers of Dogfish Head Brewing from Delaware. Brewmaster Sam Calagione will be there in person to discuss his beers, along with his new book, Extreme Beers. It’s another four-course dinner and well worth the $80 price of admission, and maybe we can persuade Sam to do some rapping. It will be held at the Cathedral Hill Hotel on Friday, November 10, beginning with a reception at 6:30 p.m. Call 415.674.3406 for reservations. Make your reservations soon, because the dinner is filling up fast and you don’t want to miss this one.
 

The Menu:

 

Reception: 6:30 PM

Beer Chef’s Hors D’Oeuvre
60 Minute IPA

Dinner: 7:30 PM

First Course

Poached Foie Gras with Toasted Five Spice Syrup and California Osetra Caviar

Beer: Midas Touch Golden Elixir

Second Course:

Duck Pho with Charred Ginger Broth and Parsnip Noodles

Beer: 90 Minute IPA

Third Course:

Red Cooked Angus Short Ribs with Lobster Medallions

Beer: World Wide Stout

Fourth Course:

Ginger Scented Banana Custard with Citrus Caramel Sauce

Beer: Chateau Jiahu

One of the beers that will be served at the Dogfish Head Brewing Beer Dinner.

 

11.10

Dinner with the Brewmaster: Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Brewing Beer Dinner

Cathedral Hill Hotel, 1101 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco, California
415.674.3406 [ website ]

Filed Under: Food & Beer, News Tagged With: Announcements, California, Eastern States, San Francisco

Goose Island Video Profile

October 31, 2006 By Jay Brooks

BusinessPOV, a Chicago media enterprise doing online video micro-journalism, contacted me about their latest effort, a video profile of Goose Island Brewing. It includes a short interview with Brewmaster Greg Hall interspersed with footage of the brewery and Goose Island’s beers. It’s a little over five minutes and manages quite nicely to give a good flavor of what their business is all about. It’s definitely worth checking out.

Click above to watch the video profile.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, Interview, Midwest, Profiles

Anheuser-Busch Employee Throws Salt in the Wound

October 31, 2006 By Jay Brooks

I got a comment today to an old post about the daughter of a Latrobe Brewery employee’s petition and open letter to Anheuser-Busch president Augie Busch IV hoping to persuade A-B not to move production of Rolling Rock and close the Latrobe Brewery.

Here’s the comment, from Bud:

The brewery has nothing to do with A-B. The letter and these comments are meaning less.

The original post was from May of this year, one week after the announcement that the Latrobe Brewery would be closing at the end of July and A-B would move production to their plant in Newark, New Jersey. It was an emotional time, especially for the town and the families who were losing their livelihoods when and if the brewery closed. So many people, myself included, didn’t initially focus on the details. But as it was later pointed out, it was InBev who would decide the fate of the Latrobe Brewery, not Anheuser-Busch. A-B bought the rights to the Rolling Rock brand and not the brewery itself from InBev. Of course, we don’t know if the brewery was originally part of the deal and it was negotiated away as one of the terms of the sale to A-B. We know A-B didn’t need another brewery. We know later in May A-B categorically said they were not interested in the Latrobe Brewery. It’s tricky to speculate, of course, but it seems logical that InBev would have preferred to sell both the brand and the brewery to one buyer. That would have been better for them but as we’ve seen, not for the ultimate buyer of the Rolling Rock brand.

Regardless of who carved the brewery out of the deal or even if it never was part of the deal, there was a backlash against A-B. Many people were upset that A-B was moving production of the brand to New Jersey. From a purely by-the-numbers business point-of-view, one can certainly see the logic in the decision. But, of course, business is often not just about the numbers. There are also PR considerations, especially for a company so large and so visible as Anheuser-Busch, one that claims in lofty terms its desire to be a seen as a good corporate citizen. So A-B was certainly involved, even if indirectly, in this story and they indeed played some role in the future of the town of Latrobe, the Latrobe Brewery and the employees of the brewery. To believe otherwise I find quite naive. A-B may not have had a legal obligation to the brewery or its employees, but an argument can be made that they did have a moral one. They made the decision to not buy the Latrobe Brewery — there’s no question InBev would have sold it to them — so it’s not unreasonable for A-B to shoulder some of the blame. It may be merely an externality (an economic term for costs not borne by a company, but by others as a direct or indirect result of the company’s actions) but people were harmed by their decision. It did not happen in a vacuum, as Bud, our commenter, seems to believe. InBev, did eventually find a buyer and City Brewing of LaCrosse, Wisconsin finalized the sale in late September, but the brewery did close at the end of July. As of today, I don’t believe the Latrobe Brewery employees are back to work yet.

But let’s get back to Bud. Why should we care if he doesn’t understand how A-B might have been even a little responsible for what happened in Latrobe, Pennsylvania? Why should we take offense if Bud asserts that if A-B has no legal obligations, then anything the people effected by these events have to say about it is “meaning less (sic)?” Well here’s the thing. Bud may have used his America Online account to post his comment, but he sent it from work. And apparently he’s unaware that you’re never completely anonymous in cyberspace, because thanks to a signature embedded in his post I know he’s an Anheuser-Busch employee. He made his comment from a server at One Busch Place in St. Louis, Missouri and, from the look of it, one of the corporate servers. I suspect he’s not in the marketing department or upper management — they would have known better. But I guess people caring about their community, brewing history and their livelihoods really rankled Bud and he couldn’t resist proclaiming A-B’s innocence in all of this. Coming from an A-B employee, his otherwise simple cluelessness comes across to me as arrogant and showing a distinct lack of compassion. People fighting for their community, their heritage and their ability to put food on the table to feed their families should never be called “meaningless,” least of all by the very people forcing them into that situation.

Christina Gumola, the woman who wrote the letter, later responded to my own reservations about the potential efficacy of her letter to Busch IV as follows:

Of course my efforts may seem far fetched; however if people just accepted being told “no” and didn’t fight for what they believed in then chances are they are not too happy. I’ve always fought for what I believed in and most of the time had positive results by doing so. I am also a realist and understand that nothing may occur as a result of my efforts. At least I know that I tried! I would like to thank those of you who, though may be pessimistic, but are still supportive. I really appreciate it. Finally, fight for what you believe in-you won’t have the chance for what you want if you just let it go!!

It’s hard to read that and not want to take Bud by the scruff of his arrogant little neck and shake him a little bit just to see if he’s got a heart beating in his chest. All of her efforts may be meaningless to you, Bud, but at least she tried to fight for what she believed in, however hopeless. What have you done lately that you can be proud of besides pour salt into a wound your employer helped open in the first place?

Filed Under: Editorial Tagged With: Business, Eastern States

Anchor Profiled As Successful Small Company

October 31, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Last week, USA Today profiled Anchor Brewery in their Inside Money section as a stellar example of a successful small company with no desire to grow larger and larger like the trap so many other successful companies fall into. The story is in conjunction with the publication of a business book on small companies, Small Giants: Companies That Choose to Be Great Instead of Big by Bo Burlingham, an editor at Inc. magazine. On the same day as the Anchor profile, USA Today also has an article about Burlingham’s new book entitled To grow or not to grow? Some companies decide to stay put. Both are written, naturally, from a business perspective but are a good, positive pieces for craft beer. It’s certainly nice to see that for a change.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, California, Mainstream Coverage, San Francisco

AP’s Beer by the Numbers

October 30, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Last week, quite a number of papers ran a short little filler item from the Associated Press that just listed the following statistics regarding the beer industry and U.S. consumption.
 

  • 1,409: The number of breweries — ranging from brewpubs to national brewers — operating in the United States.
  • 306: The number of breweries in California last year, putting the state first in the country. Mississippi was last with one.
  • $82 billion: The U.S. sales volume for beer last year. Craft beer — beer typically made in small batches by regional or local brewers — accounted for $4.3 billion.
  • 21.3 gallons: The amount of beer consumed per capita last year in the United States. New Hampshire led all states with 31.1 gallons. Nevada, North Dakota, Montana and Wisconsin rounded out the top five. Utah was last at 12.2 gallons.
  • 48: The percent of all beer sold in metal cans last year in the United States. Glass bottles followed at 42 percent and draft beer was at 10 percent.
  • 84.1: The market share held by major U.S. breweries and noncraft regional brewers. Imports have 12.4 percent and craft brewers hold 3.4 percent.

Filed Under: News Tagged With: Business, Mainstream Coverage, National

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