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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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GABF 2006: Friday Night

September 29, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Friday night was the second of four sessions at this year’s Great American Beer Festival. They added another 40,000 square feet to the hall and sold out every session, which is 13,000 tickets times four or 52,000 vistors to the festival this year.

Shaun O’Sullivan of 21st Amendment Brewery in San Francisco, California, giving me attitude.

Me and Sam Calagione from Dogfish Head Craft Brewery in Milton and Rehoboth Beach, Delaware along with their new alehouse location in Gaithersburg, Maryland.

The girls of 21st Amendment Brewery in San Francisco, California.

Garret Oliver of Brooklyn Brewery and Vinnie Cilruzo of Russian River Brewing in Santa Rosa, California. Vinnie won a bronze medal for his Aud Blonde in the Golden or Blonde Ale category, which was named for his mother Audre who was in the audience along with his father Vince. Vinnie also won a silver medal for his Beatification in the Belgian-Style Sour Ale category and a gold medal for Pliny the Elder in the Imperial or Double India Pale Ale category.

For many more photos from Friday Night at GABF, visit the photo gallery.

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: Colorado, Festivals

GABF 2006: Thursday Night

September 28, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Thursday at 5:30 marked the beginning of the 25th Great American Beer Festival and my 14th festival in 15 years.

The entrance to the hall this year featured five endcaps each with five years worth of photographic memories from the previous 25 years of GABF. The brewers and media entrance was greeted by a bigger-than-life-size photo of me and Greg Koch from Stone Brewing. Apparently we were the face of 1997-2001. It was a little disconcerting seeing myself so large every time I entered the festival and I didn’t know my chins could get that big, but it was also very flattering and pretty cool.

Rich Norgrove of Bear Republic Brewing in Healdsburg, California. Rich won a bronze medal for Peter Brown Tribute Ale in the Brown Porter category, another Bronze for XP Pale Ale in the American-Style Pale Ale category, a Silver for Racer 5 in the American-Style Strong Pale Ale category, another Silver for Apex Ale in the American-Style India Pale Ale category, and most importantly Rich was named Small Brewery Company and Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year, a well-deserved honor. Congratulations, Rich!

For many more photos from Thursday Night at GABF, visit the photo gallery.

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: Colorado, Festivals

GABF: Wednesday Night at Falling Rock

September 27, 2006 By Jay Brooks

After the Brewers Reception, everybody adjourned, as usual, to the Falling Rock, unofficial HQ during festival week.

Falling Rock co-owner Chris Black jumped up on the bar to announce the evening’s festivities.

Chris showing off that he’s only having “one” beer all night.

Shaun O’Sullivan (21st Amendment), Judy Ashworth (Publican Emeritus) and Chris Black.

Jeremy Cowan (He’Brew) and Rich Norgrove (Bear Republic)

Tomme Arthur (Lost Abbey, Port Brewing), Eric Rose (Santa Barbara Brewing) and Vinnie Cilurzo (Russian River)

Self-portrait with Natalie Cilurzo and Judy Ashworth.

Melissa Myers samples Chris Black’s one beer.

Then passes it to me for a sip.

Me with Chris’ big glass (it has its own undertow).

Up against the wall with Stephen Beaumont and Judy Ashworth.

Pierre Celis was there tasting people on his new golden Grottenbier.

Of course, the Rolling Boil Blues Band rocked the house with Tom Dalldorf on guitar and John Harris from Full Sail on washboard.

The RB3 had them dancing on the tables.

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: Colorado, Other Events, Photo Gallery

GABF: Wednesday Night Brewer’s Reception

September 27, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Each year, the night before GABF, the Brewers Association holds a reception at Wynkoop for the brewers. It’s the first chance during the week for every one newly arrived in town to get together and say hello, drink a few beers and enjoy calm before the storm.

From left: Bob Pease (BA), Vinnie Cilurzo (Russian River), John Bryant and his wife Cindy (Odell’s), Banjo (Real Beer) and Tom McCormick (California Small Brewers Association).

Ralph Woodall (HopUnion) and the delightful Chris Crabb (OBF)

John Bryant (Odell’s) and Ray Daniels (BA)

Lucy Saunders (The Beer Cook) and Vinnie Cilurzo.

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: Colorado, Other Events, Photo Gallery

Burgundian Babble Belt Tasting

September 27, 2006 By Jay Brooks

The passionate folks from the Burgundian Babble Belt, a vocal group of Belgian beer enthusiasts, usually has a tasting of Belgian-style beers around GABF but I’ve never before had an opportunity to attend one of their events. This year, the Celebrator was a partial sponsor, and it was before the Brewers Reception, so I had a chance to go. It was held in a delightfully funky building, a three-story former synagogue in a sketchy neighborhood just outside downtown Denver. If there hadn’t been a sign on the door, I would have thought we were in the wrong place. But after a long climb, we arrived at the cavernous third floor, filled with funky decorations and terrific food and beers. It was only too bad we couldn’t have stayed all night.

Stephen Beaumont chats with our host for the evening, Logan.

Jeff and his friend Josh, who he made sure did not miss a GABF event despite being miles away from Denver for the first time this year.

We were almost out the door when Dr. Bill arrived, and enticed us back upstairs with a wheel of Chimay cheese, along with his usual assortment of fantastic beers. To be fair, he really didn’t have to twist our arms very much.

Filed Under: Events Tagged With: Belgium, Colorado, Other Events

After the Beer Dinner

September 26, 2006 By Jay Brooks

After the beer dinner, we stopped by the Toronado for a nitecap and to play some washoes.

Vinnie Cilurzo pouring us each a glass of his Supplication.

Natalie Cilurzo finishing off a bottle of Chimay.

Filed Under: News

Chiles and Beer: Millennium Beer Dinner

September 26, 2006 By Jay Brooks

The night before leaving for GABF, there was one more beer dinner to attend. The Millennium Restaurant, a vegetarian eatery located in the Hotel California (f.k.a. the Savoy), put on their 3rd annual Chile and Beer Dinner with beers from Russian River Brewing and Nodding Head Brewery in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

One of the desserts, a pineapple-Serrano cake with chocolate frosting, coconut-lime anglaise and chile ice cream.

A glass of Monk’s Flemish Sour contrasted by Nodding Head’s Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse with Woodruff syrup.

Tom Peters, Nodding Head co-owner and brewer Curt Decker, Vinnie and Natalie Cilurzo, from Russian River Brewing.

Tom Peters and Dave Keene, owners of the best two Belgian beer bars on both coasts.

Filed Under: Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: California, Photo Gallery, San Francisco

Here’s to American Brew

September 26, 2006 By Jay Brooks

I knew Florentine Films, which is the Ken Burns’ documentary film production company, was working on a film on the history of craft beer but I didn’t know exactly who was doing it or what it was precisely. There are four directors at Florentine Film. In addition to Burns, there’s also Larry Hott, Roger Sherman and Buddy Squires. A PA had contacted me looking for old pictures of Bert Grant and some other very early craft brewers. My photos didn’t go back as far as they needed so I put them on to the Celebrator’s photo archive, which does. The depth and breadth of who they were looking for was very impressive and certainly inferred they had done their homework. I was eagerly anticipating a high-profile film about the history of our peculiar industry. Between that and Beer Wars, which was shot last year and is apparently being edited now, it seems like we may be on the brink of some wonderful opportunities for people to find out what craft beer is — perhaps for the first time — and maybe seek it out and drink it in, literally.

Surprisingly, I discovered when a press release via e-mail appeared in my inbox that in fact the film American Brew is being sponsored by “Here’s to Beer,” the A-B sponsored effort to educate people about beer. I have, of course, not been won over by that effort and have said some very harsh words about it. Just look at the post before this one for a flavor of my discontent. But every thing about this film that they’re sponsoring looks great. The people involved seem beyond reproach. Roger Sherman, who is directing the film, is no stranger to film-making and has several awards under his belt to prove it. And many of the people listed on the film’s teaser poster I count as my friends. So unlike, say Beerfest, everything I know about this movie is positive and I’m looking very forward to actually seeing this one.

The one niggling thing about it is that essentially Anheuser-Busch paid for what at least appears to be a film that at first blush doesn’t seem like it will do them any favors. Maybe I’m missing something here, but a film that finally shows the history of innovative, small authentic craft beer would by contast not show the big breweries in a particularly flattering light. I certainly want to believe that A-B’s influence on the project will not extend to the substance and content of the movie, but it’s hard not to speculate. The trailer will be debuting at GABF and it will be interesting to see it. Let’s hope we’ll all be able to say, without reservation, “Here’s to American Brew.”

 

Filed Under: Editorial, News Tagged With: Business, History, National

NBWA Gives Bob Lachky Beer’s “Medal of Freedom”

September 23, 2006 By Jay Brooks

The National Beer Wholesalers Association (NBWA) gave its Industry Service Award to Anheuser-Busch executive VP Bob Lachky. In their press release, the NBWA stated that the reason they gave the award to Lachky was for “his efforts to promote beer and the important role distributors play in the marketplace”

From the press release:

“August Busch IV created the Global Industry Development group because we firmly believe that everyone in the industry must work to sell and grow the entire category,” Lachky said. “It has been a privilege to work with NBWA and its members and I am thrilled to accept this award on behalf of Here’s To Beer and Anheuser-Busch. Seeing the signs of beer industry improvement this year, we think we are making progress.”

Since late last year, Lachky has spearheaded the “Here’s To Beer” industry initiative. The grassroots campaign to elevate the image of beer focuses on three key areas:

  1. Reminding consumers of the social value of beer — it brings people together in an unpretentious way.
  2. Romancing the product and the art of brewing — reinforcing beer’s refreshment, all natural ingredients and the beauty of its liquid.
  3. Encouraging consumers to view beer differently — giving them new ways to enjoy beer including ideas and recipes for pairing with food.

Well, good for Bob. I’m sure he’s a terrific guy. And as I’ve said before the “idea” of an industry-wide promotion of the positive aspects of beer à la “Got Milk?” is something the industry sorely needs. I hate beating a dead horse, but the wine industry’s efficacy in educating their consumers and raising the standards for wine put us as an industry to shame. Sure they’ve had more money and more built-in appeal (or high-end prejudice), but that’s not all they’ve been fortunate about. Perhaps most importantly, Gallo (and the other large-scale wine producers) haven’t been undermining those efforts for decades the way the big brewery’s advertising has damaged the image of beer. Craft beer’s challenge has been far more Sisyphean in nature. For every positive step craft beer has moved forward, talking frogs, man law, flatulent horses, twins and all manner of other juvenilia has dragged us back down again. As a result, many people remain deliriously ignorant of what good beer even is, never mind how best to enjoy it.

So for the segment of the industry most responsible for the negative associations that beer has today to take up the fight to improve beer’s image seems downright Orwellian to me. Kafka would have a hard time understanding this one. Yet many of my colleagues remain optimistic about this program or have remained silent about it. We all think the industry needs what the stated goals of “Here’s to Beer” are, but given A-B’s transparent agenda, how can anyone take it seriously. Obviously the other brewers saw through A-B’s motives, which is why they all chose not to participate.

And that was my initial — and continuing — problem with Anheuser-Busch’s “Here’s to Beer” campaign. Despite the fact that they continue to spin it as an industry-wide campaign, not a single brewer apart from A-B is involved with the project. Even the trade organization, the Beer Institute, who had initially co-sponsored the effort, withdrew their support right after the first commercial aired during the Super Bowl in Early February of this year. Bob apparently flew all over the country for months trying to convince other brewers to join their bandwagon, but not a single one took the bait. So I have a hard time seeing how this has been a success. Yet the media, even the trade media for the most part, has gone along with it in lockstep calling it a “grassroots campaign,” to take an example from the NBWA’s own press release. Here’s the definition of “grassroots:”

“of, pertaining to, or involving the common people, esp. as contrasted with or separable from an elite.”

  • grassroots. (n.d.). Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.0.1). Retrieved September 23, 2006, from Dictionary.com website: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/grassroots

So how is this campaign, run solely by the biggest brewer in the country by a wide margin, in any way “grassroots?” Simple. It’s not. You can’t get more elite in terms of resources and influence than A-B. Only a few come close, and not very close at that.

Also in the press release, Lachky makes the following claim. “Seeing the signs of beer industry improvement this year, we think we are making progress.” Wow, he’s taking credit for industry growth this year, how magnanimous of him. But I really can’t see how that’s even remotely true. First of all, the big breweries have made only very modest gains this year. Despite the self-serving rhetoric to the contrary, the big guys aren’t experiencing a period of turnaround and rapid growth. They’re still on the ropes — so to speak — with their core brands. Craft beer, on the other hand, was up 9% last year and looks to be tracking at 11% this year. What growth there is in the industry, that’s where the majority of it resides.

Having not met Bob Lachky personally, it’s hard for me to say he isn’t an enthusiastic supporter of beer. He certainly appears to have worked very hard on this project. And he may be a great guy, who knows? (I will have an opportunity to meet him in Denver next week.) So despite the fact that we’d all like to see the image of beer elevated to its proper place, has the “Here’s to Beer” campaign actually accomplished anything award-worthy? Are there droves of people who’ve been turned around and educated by the information on the website or the marketing materials made available to beer distributors? It sure doesn’t seem that way from where I’m sitting. It takes more than putting up a website and running a few PSAs for a mere eight months to undo the damage to beer’s image that A-B and the other industrial brewers have perpetrated over the last several decades.

So why did the NBWA choose to “honor” Bob Lachky and his “Here’s to Beer” campaign after only eight months and very little obvious or verifiable results? To me that’s the question in all of this. It reminds me a little bit of our President’s recent tendency to give the “Medal of Freedom” to beleaguered underlings as he shows them the door. Screw up, get a medal. Which is not say that Bob Lachky made any mistakes — as far as I know he didn’t — but awards and medals should be for achieving something tangible and measurable. Otherwise they’re meaningless, aren’t they? And while I mean no disrespect, I can’t see that the “Here’s to Beer” campaign has achieved any of its goals or united the industry. We don’t live in a world that, unlike eight months ago, now reveres beer’s social value, romantic allusions and diversity. And while there does seem to be anecdotal signs that the media may be taking beer slightly more seriously lately, I can’t draw a line of causality between that and A-B’s PR efforts, however well-intentioned. And frankly, that could be simply wishful thinking on my part since I’m watching the industry more closely (and a little differently) this year than I have the previous couple of years.

The only way beer will be brought to more people is the only way it’s ever worked, at least in my experience. And that’s one-on-one. The people best positioned to create any sort of “grassroots” movement are the people already doing just that. The servers in brewpubs, the brewers giving tours and pouring beer at festivals, passionate retail clerks and “common people” — like you and me — who simply like good beer and want to share it with their friends. That’s the only grassroots I can see succeeding.

Again, the idea of providing more information to consumers who want to learn more about beer is quite laudable. But it has to come from people who really believe the message they’re preaching, not from the largest beer manufacturer in the country trying to raise it’s share price by any means necessary. And until the “Here’s to Beer” campaign is truly an industry-wide effort with its true goals free from ulterior motives, it’s hard to applaud the effort as shamelessly and unquestioningly as the NBWA did in honoring it. I’ll join the NBWA in praising Bob Lachky for making the effort he has — if for no other reason than to give him the benefit of the doubt — but the results of that effort in the form of the “Here’s to Beer” do not yet deserve such accolades.

Filed Under: Editorial, News Tagged With: Business, National

A Delicious Evening at the “Tion” Dinner

September 19, 2006 By Jay Brooks

Last night was Beer Chef Bruce Paton’s latest beer dinner, dubbed the Tion Dinner, because it featured Damnation, Temptation, Supplication, Salvation and Redemption from Russian River Brewing. Everything was spectacular and because the MBAA conference is in town this week, there were a lot more familiar faces than usual, which made for an even more enjoyable evening. The food was delicious, as were the beers, of course. Friends, food and beer: what more could you ask for of an ideal evening? Bruce asked me to take photos of the event so I have a lot of pictures to share. Here is a photo gallery of the event.
 

Chef Bruce Paton and Brewer Vinnie Cilurzo.

All of the brewers who attended the beer dinner.

This was just too good a photo to wait, this is Bruce with Russian River co-owner Natalle Cilurzo.
 

UPDATE: Photo Gallery from the event now online.

Filed Under: Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: California, San Francisco

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