Brookston Beer Bulletin

Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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In a post entitled Obama beer-averse? ‘Come on, man’, on the Swamp, Tribune’s Washington Bureau, where the author reports that “Barack Obama, defending his beer-drinking credentials, says his party’s ticket won’t be out-blue-collared by the Republican ticket with the union and hunting family on it.”

In a recent 60 Minutes interview by Steve Kroft:

“But you tried really hard to reach these people,” Kroft pressed. “You went and sipped beer, which I know you don’t particularly like — I mean you even…

“Steve, I had a beer last night,” Obama interjected. “I mean, where do these stories come from, man?”

“I’m the one… [that] doesn’t drink,” Biden added.

“Where does the story come from that…I don’t like beer? ” Obama asked. “C’mon, man,”

“Umm, beer ….” Tell me he’s not looking at the beer and thinking, “damn, that’s really good.”
 
 

Given Cindy McCain’s ties to Anheuser-Busch, it’s a safe bet Obama’s not drinking Budweiser. The beer in the photo below looks to be a pale ale or amber ale at the very least. It’s certainly not a light beer. Does that make this election big beer vs. small?

 

Dinosaur Beer

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t-rex
No, I don’t been those lumbering giants making flavorless beer-like industrial beverages which we all hope might one day become extinct, I’m talking about a beer made with roughly 45-million-year old yeast found in a bug entombed in amber, and extracted just like the plot of Michael Crichton’s Jurassic Park. This time around, the story involves Fossil Fuels Brewing Co., whose owners include Dr. Raul J. Cano, the Emeritus Professor at Cal. Poly in San Luis Obispo who originally made the discovery. According to the story in today’s Washington Post, the breakthrough came last month.

“I was going through my collection, going, ‘Gee whiz — this is pretty nifty. Maybe we could use it to make beer,’ ” says Cano, 63, now the director of the Environmental Biotechnology Institute at California Polytechnic State University in San Luis Obispo.

Last month? Hold on just a second. First of all the article mentions the following:

In April, at the World Beer Cup in San Diego, “we had one judge give us the highest marks, one just below and one who didn’t like it,” says Chip Lambert, 63, the company’s other second microbiologist. “We learned that the issue was that in these competitions, you brew to match the traditional concept of the style, which these yeast just don’t do.”

Ignoring for the moment that the World Beer Cup isn’t judged like that (there are no “highest marks” or anything similar), the Washington Post published this article yesterday, September 1. That would mean the World Beer Cup took place five months ago, not to mention that to enter that competition you have to register and submit your beer well in advance of the actual judging. I’m not trying to quibble with the story, a least that wasn’t my original intent, but this just doesn’t add up. Last month? Setting all that aside for the moment, I wrote about this two years ago, when Stumptown Brewing, in Guernville, California, made a beer called Tyrannosaurus-Rat, also using Dr. Cano’s ancient yeast.

This is part of what I wrote in Fall of 2006 in the Celebrator Beer News, reviewing a beer and barbecue festival held along the Guernville River at Stumptown:

But as good as the barbecue was, I was there for the beer. I was particularly keen to try what Stumptown was billing as a beer made with the world’s oldest yeast. Their “Tyrannosaurus-Rat” — or T-Rat for short — was essentially their popular “Rat Bastard,” but brewed using yeast that was 30 million years-old, give or take a few million years! How it got to be in Stumptown’s beer is nearly as interesting as the beer itself. It was discovered in the Dominican Republic trapped inside of a bee that was also trapped inside of a piece of amber, a terrific preservative. And the bee had been there for somewhere between 25 and 40 million years. Dr. Raul J. Cano, Emeritus Professor at Cal. Poly in San Luis Obispo, made the discovery in 1995 and managed to extract living bacterium, including a few strains of yeast, directly from the bee’s stomach. The ancient microorganisms were patented and also inspired the movie “Jurassic Park II.” It fell into Stumptown’s lap during a ski trip where the Hackett’s met a friend of Dr. Cano, and the rest, as they say, is literally ancient history.

I tried the T-Rat alongside of its modern counterpart, Rat Bastard, as they were the same in all respects except for the yeast. The Rat Bastard is a well-made pale ale, with good aromas and a crisp, clean palate. It has a generous hop bite that finishes bitter, then drops off sharply in the end. The T-Rat was much smoother, with softer, fruity flavor characteristics and just a touch of lemony sweetness that wasn’t tart. The finish is quite clean, with just a quiet hop presence lingering. While they’re both good beers, I think the T-Rat has a more complex, developed taste profile but its smoothness makes it great. The fact that it was made with such an old yeast is fascinating and given how good the beer is, no mere novelty.

There are also other anomalies. In my story, which relied primarily on Stumptown’s information, the yeast was found in a bee from the Dominican Republic. The Washington Post account, however, lists the Lebanese weevil as the yeast carrier. On top of that Dr. George Poinar, who was also involved in finding and extracting the DNA from amber, says on his biography web page that its age was 125 million-years old.

And here is the original press release for Stumptown’s version of the beer, from June 27, 2006:

For the first time, 25-40 million year old yeast has been used to brew a commercial batch of beer (“Tyrannosaurus Rat”) to be made available to the public on July 8th at Stumptown Brewery (15045 River Rd. Guerneville, Ca.). Dr. Raul Cano, Lewis “Chip” Lambert, and Peter Hackett will be celebrating this historic event and available for questions from 11:00A.M. on Saturday July 8th.

The public tasting of the T-Rat is the culmination of coincidences that involved a 20-40 million-year old bee trapped in amber and discovered in the Dominican Republic, a pair of renowned scientists, a ski weekend and an award winning microbrewery.

Amber is nature’s perfect preservative. It desiccates its specimens and protects them from damaging radiation of all types. Man has successfully used it to preserve their dead for thousands of years; Nature has preserved many of its inhabitants, including the recently identified spider web, in their elegant tombs for tens of millions of years.

Dr. Raul J. Cano, Emeritus Professor at California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo, reported in Science (Volume 268, May 19, 1995) that he extracted a living bacterium from the gut of a stingless bee entombed in amber 25 – 40 million years ago. Independently, Lewis (Chip) Lambert, Fremont, CA, at the time Director of Pre-Clinical Research at a Bay Area biotech company, confirmed his work in a very skeptical scientific environment that has, for the most part, accepted its validity. In addition, Raul’s work became the underlying premise for the movie Jurassic Park.

The patented ancient microorganisms (USPO#5,593,883) became the focus of a new company based on the potential use of these microbial isolates for industrial and medical applications, and the hunt began. From the ancient-amber library came a few yeast strains and with them, the question, could they be used to make beer? The answer was a resounding yes as very good beer was brewed for the Jurassic Park II cast party and Raul’s daughter’s wedding reception.

After this initial success, Fossil Fuels Brewing Company was born with the motto “We bring good things back to life.” Using ancient yeasts that had all been thoroughly tested and selected for their beer-making properties, Fossil Fuels Brewing Co. planned to produce high quality distinctive beers with yeasts that had been isolated from amber.

The partners then proposed trials of these ancient yeasts to numerous microbreweries. Much to their surprise, in an industry that thrives on innovation, found a lack of enthusiasm among commercial breweries.

Fast forward a few years to the snowy slopes of Alpine Meadows where Carla Hackett was taking a ski lesson from Raul’s now friend and business partner, Chip. Carla had all the attributes of a great skier that her husband, an Aussie who owns the Stumptown Brewery in Guerneville, lacks. On the second, never the first, ride up the chair lift, an important relationship was established when the question was raised, “would you like to make some beer with some patented, 35-million year-old yeast?” The affirmative response started a brewing relationship between Stumptown Brewery and Environmental Diagnostics, Inc.

This random path led the ancient yeast to Stumptown Brewery on May 6th where Peter, Owner/Brewer, put the yeast to work. On June 21st came the news that “T-Rat” had finished fermenting and was conditioning. Perhaps most importantly, that it’s “very good, very unique. The yeast character is unusual, exotic, and very pronounced”.

fossil-fuels

On page two of the Post piece they finally do mention Stumptown’s involvement. The new versions, which include a wheat beer and a pale ale, are made at Kelley Bros. Brewing, which is in Manteca, California. I really enjoyed the pale ale version that Stumptown brewed and will eagerly try these two new versions. But I’m still a bit bewildered by the discrepancies that seem to accompany this story. But I guess history itself is a lot like that, so maybe it’s fitting after all. I wonder what “Cheers” is in dinosaur-speak? “Here’s tar in your eye?”

Choose Your Sides: Football Season Starts Thursday

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The 2008-09 NFL Football season starts on Thursday, which means there are still two days left to join the 2nd annual Brookston Beer Bulletin football games. There are two to choose from, one is a simple no-spread pick ’em game where you try to guess who will win each game, each week. If that’s too much of a commitment for you, then the other game — Survival Football — is perfect for you. Just pick one game each week to win, but be sure about your choice because if you’re wrong, you’re out for the year. Last man or woman standing wins.

So far we’ve got 23 people signed up for the Pick ‘Em League, so there are still 27 open spots for you to take. And only 20 folks have signed up for the Survival League, meaning there are thirty more people we can accommodate. What are you waiting for, come on, play along. The more, the merrier. Both games are free (you just need a Yahoo ID, which is also free). Below is a description of each game and the details on how to play.

Pro Football Pick’em

In this Pick’em game, just pick the winner for every game each week, with no spread, and let’s see who gets the most correct throughout the season. All that’s at stake is bragging rights, but it’s fun.

In order to join the group, just go to Pro Football Pick’em, click the “Sign Up” button (or “Create or Join Group” if you are a returning user). From there, follow the path to join an existing private group and when prompted, enter the following information…

Group ID#: 29057 (Beer Bulletin Pick’Em)
Password: bulletin

Survival Football

If picking all sixteen football game every week seems like too much, then Survival Football is for you. In Survival Football, you only have to pick one game each week. The only catch is you can’t pick the same team to win more than once all season. And you better be sure about each game you pick because if you’re wrong, you’re out for the season. Last man standing wins.

In order to join the group, just go to Survival Football, click the “Sign Up” button and choose to “Join an Existing Group”, then “Join a Private Group”. Then, when prompted, enter the following information…

Group ID#: 8612 (Beer Bulletin Survival)
Password: bulletin

 

The Hot New Business: Hop Farming

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The Wall Street Journal had an interesting article last week about an apparently growing trend, entitled Hop Farmers Find Growth Business. Essentially it chronicles how many people saw all the stories that began last fall reporting the shortage of hops and the huge rise in prices for the essential beer ingredient and saw an opportunity. As a result, despite the steep learning curve and heavy capital needed, a number of people have apparently turned to growing hops. Some are brewers hoping to control at least a small portion of their own destiny, some are part-time entrepreneurs looking to cash in, while still others are trying to make a go of at as full-time hop farmers.

I know several brewers who have planted small amounts of hops on their existing property or have bought or leased additional land just for that purpose. In no case will it meet all their hop needs, but it will be a great story to tell, that they’re using at least some hops that they’ve grown themselves. Plus, many of the brewers I’ve talked to think it will be fun (though they know it’s hard work) and just want to see if they can do it themselves and outside the ideal climate of Washington, Oregon and Idaho. Hops did used to be most prevalent in upstate New York until the mid-1800s when a blight wiped out the entire industry there, so we know there are other climates where it will grow effectively. Curiously, at least two people told me they tried to get some help from the Hop Growers of America, a trade group that represents hop farmers in the tri-state area, but were soundly rebuffed. Their website states they “represent and promote the interests of U.S. growers” but dig a little deeper and you’ll see that’s not exactly accurate. Under “Growing Regions,” itself under “U.S. Hops,” the area even shown are the same three states of the Pacific Northwest Hop Growing Region. Since I know there are other hop farms — albeit quite small — around the country, when I inquired about those I was essentially told they were too small to matter.

This is one of those curious examples of how related, but competing, interests can diverge. It’s in the best interests of brewers to have a steady supply of all the hop varieties they want to use for an affordable price. I should probably say “lowest” price, but I believe most, if not all, brewers do sincerely understand and accept that hop farmers deserve a fair price. But, of course, the best interests of hop farmers is to get the best fair price they can and maximize the amount they can realize for their crops, usually on a per acre basis. The point of divergence often comes when trying to define what constitutes a price that’s “fair.” But you can also easily see why they would view any new hop farmer — no matter how small — as competition, especially outside the four main growing areas in the three typical Pacific Northwest states. And so they would be protectionist, and would not be willing to assist in their own demise or dilution of market share. I get that. But it is still a little disappointing that they wouldn’t be willing to help out a brewer growing such a small amount that it can’t be reasonably seen to be serious competition.

My friend Ralph Olson, who owns HopUnion, is quoted at the end of the Wall Street Journal piece warning that many of the new crop of hop farmers “won’t be in business in a few years. Prices will come down, and insects can wreak havoc.” And I think that’s essentially true. From everything I’ve learned talking with hop farmers and visiting the hop growing areas, hops is a difficult business that requires more effort than other kinds of farming. The processing equipment is capital intensive and dealing with potential pests and diseases a veritable nightmare. Many of the current hop growers are third or fourth generation, farming the same land as their ancestors. They say that hops gets in your blood and that is what keeps them in the game. Seeing what’s involved, I believe them.

But I also believe that the craft beer brewers got a little spooked by this last shortage, coming somewhat unexpectedly at a time when they were riding high on several years of double-digit growth. I myself had that sinking feeling when just as things seemed to be going so great for the industry, it appeared that the hop shortage/price increases might bring that growth to a screeching halt. Some brewers felt that the people who sell hops could have done a better job last year (and even before that) of managing the supply and the pricing and should have done more to warn the industry about the impending shortages. After the shortages revealed themselves, they encouraged every brewer to enter into long term contracts to ensure their price and supply, but prior to that time some brewers were unable to get a hop contract at any price.

Again, what I think we’re seeing here is competing interests, normally symbiotic, but occasionally — like now — less so. According to August 1st estimates, it appears this year’s harvest will be up 27% over last year. I haven’t seen that broken down by varieties yet, but most of the new acreage planted was the high alphas preferred by the large breweries rather than the diverse aroma hops that craft brewers need. So even with what appears to be good news overall, I expect that there will be some hop varieties still scarce and that prices won’t drop much, if at all.

But as long as there are still opportunities to make a living growing hops, we’ll see people try their hand at it. We can embrace them, as most brewers have done, or discourage them, like it would appear the hop growers, or at least the trade group that speaks for them, has done. While I can’t fault them for wanting to protect themselves and their market, especially those that have stuck with it during the lean times, it still strikes me as a somewhat bitter response. It will be interesting to see how many breweries make their beer with hops from unusual sources this fall, though in truth any hops planted for the first time last spring will not be at full yield (that takes three years). But with necessity being the mother of invention, I’m sure we’ll see a lot of creative innovation nonetheless.

 

Hops just before harvest time in Yakima, Washington, where over 70% of American hops are grown.

 

SF Beer Week Coming In February 2009

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sfbw
When Tom Dalldorf and I came up with the idea for Beerapalooza six years ago, our original vision was a week-long series of events celebrating all the wonderful beer here in the Bay Area, California. Unfortunately, there was just two of us, and we could never quite find the time to pull it together in a way that matched our imagination of what it should have been. Beerapalooza became static, with essentially five annual events—which were all great fun—but that was it. It started off with the Bistro’s Double IPA Festival and finished up with the annual Celebrator Anniversary Party. In between there was the cheese tasting at Rogue’s San Francisco Public House, the Beer Chef’s Beer & Chocolate Dinner and the legendary Toronado Barleywine Festival.

Then earlier this year, Philly Beer Week blew our socks off. What Tom Peters and Don Russell were able to pull off their first year was nothing short of amazing. We were envious and a little guilty that we hadn’t managed to put the same effort into to a similarly grand event here in the Bay Area. We returned from Philadelphia re-energized and committed to pulling it together.

So five of us involved in one capacity or another in the beer world formed an ad hoc committee to organize and promote the successor to Beerapalooza, which we’ve dubbed “SF Beer Week,” which will be held over ten days next year, February 6-15, 2009.

Philly Beer Week characterized their town as being “America’s Best Beer Drinking City.” Since we’re friends with the Philadelphia beer community — hell, I’m originally from Pennsylvania, having grown up just a hour west of Philly — we thought we’d have a little fun with an East Coast/West Coast smackdown and so we’re calling the Bay Area “America’s Original Craft-Beer Drinking City.” Not only are we having a bit of fun with the faux rivalry, but we think we have a pretty good claim to that title. With both Anchor Brewing and New Albion in the Bay Area, not to mention Sierra Nevada and Mendocino Brewing (started with New Albion’s eqiupment), and the fact that three of the first five brewpubs were located in the Bay Area, we feel confident of our claim to that title.

The plan is to showcase the legacy and heritage of beer in the Bay, with a goal of coordinating 100-150 events. The week will be anchored by the Bistro Double IPA Festival, the Toronado Barleywine Festival and will end with a new full-blown Bay Area Beer Festival. In between there will be beer dinners, cheese and beer pairing events, other gourmet food events savoring our world-class cuisine, meet the brewer evenings, homebrewing demonstrations, music, films and even a museum exhibition exploring the history of Bay Area brewing, from Monterey to Sacramento and beyond.

A new website went live over the weekend, in conjunction with handing out postcards announcing SF Beer Week at the Slow Food Nation convention. There’s not much there yet, but you can sign up to receive a newsletter to follow along as we add information over the coming months leading up to the 10-day celebration. Instead of just a few people doing a lot of work on SF Beer Week, we’re enlisting the help of as much of the beer community that’s willing and interested in helping. In that way, our goal is to create an event that’s not just for beer enthusiasts, but by them as well. We also hope to get the support of the wider community in the form of recognition by the City or cities and possibly the state along with support from local tourism boards.

If you’re interested in volunteering or getting involved with SF Beer Week by hosting an event, please contact us via Email. Either way, watch the SF Beer Week website or here for news about the event’s progress. And most importantly, consider showing your support for Bay Area beer by attending as many of the events as your liver and wallet will allow. There should truly be something for everyone, whether you live in northern California or have chosen SF Beer Week as the perfect time to visit us.

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Two New Ones From Stone

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Stone Brewing released two new beers this Labor Day weekend at the brewery, and they’ll be in stores beginning Tuesday. Both sound pretty interesting. The first is Cali-Belgique IPA. It’s a California-style IPA brewed with Belgian yeast. It will be available year round, but in limited amounts.

The second release is a collaboration called AleSmith • Mikkeller • Stone Belgian Style Triple Ale. There’s a great story on the back of the bottle written by Mikkel Bjergsø, one of the three brewers involved in creating the beer. He’s the co-founder of Mikkeller, a great microbrewery in Denmark. In addition to Stone, the other brewery involved was Alesmith Brewing in San Diego. It’s a one-time beer and will be available only once. When it’s gone, it’s gone.

 

Slow Food Nation Embraces Beer

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After Friday night’s Slow Food Nation Press Preview, the main events began Saturday morning, with two sessions scheduled for the day, and two more on Sunday. I volunteered to pour beer and answer questions in the beer pavilion and Beer Curator — don’t you just love that title — Dave McLean assigned me to the cask bar, one of three area in the beer pavilion. There was a bar for bottled and canned beer, one for draft beer, and the third for cask.

After Friday night’s Slow Food Nation Press Preview, the main events began Saturday morning, with two sessions scheduled for the day, and two more on Sunday. I volunteered to pour beer and answer questions in the beer pavilion and Beer Curator — don’t you just love that title — Dave McLean assigned me to the cask bar, one of three area in the beer pavilion. There was a bar for bottled and canned beer, one for draft beer, and the third for cask.

Once people starting arriving, the time just whizzed by, it was so different from the typical beer festival. First of all, there were very few frat boy types looking only to get a buzz. And even better, the majority of people who bellied up to the cask bar were actually interested in learning what cask beer was and which one they should try. It was so refreshing to have people truly receptive and open-minded, but perhaps the most fun was trying to pick a beer for someone, based on what they normally liked.

Me and Arne Johnson, head brewer at Marin Brewing, manning the cask bar in the beer pavilion.

Inside the main building that housed most of the 16 taste pavilions (beer, bread and native foods were outside by the entrance).

 

For more photos from the first Slow Food Nation convention in San Francisco, visit the photo gallery.
 

Koch Cooks

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Just before the start of Slow Food Nation’s inaugural convention in San Francisco, the Beer Chef Bruce Paton put on a beer dinner with the beers of Stone Brewing. Co-founder Greg Koch was on hand to talk about his beers and enjoy the evening. As usual, a great time was had by all.

 

Greg Koch and Bruce Paton, toasting the evening’s meal with a yummy beer.

 

For more photos from Stone Brewing Beer Dinner at the Cathedral Hill Hotel, visit the photo gallery.
 

Remembering Michael: One Year Later

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One year ago today, I was in Yakima, Washington attending Hop School. For some reason I couldn’t sleep and woke up early. I checked my e-mail and learned that Michael Jackson had passed away the night before. The beer world was stunned, myself included, and it was in a sense a national day of mourning within our community. It’s a year later, and I think that’s still true for those of us who knew Michael. I was at a wedding reception recently with some fellow beer writers and we drank a toast to his memory there, too.

So today I’ll be Remembering Michael Jackson and the legacy, influence and inspiration he left behind.

I’m volunteering at the Slow Food Nation Beer Pavilion all day today, which will afford me many opportunities to drink a toast to Michael’s memory. No matter where you are today, I’ hope you’ll do likewise.

The photos of Michael Jackson below are from the Celebrator Beer News’ own Michael Jackson Remembered page and please also visit The Beer Hunter, Michael’s “official” website.

 


 

 

Some early promotional shots and the last one at an event with Charles Finkel.

 

Slow Food Nation Beer Pavilion Preview

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Slow Food Nation is a celebration of American food and sustainability. It’s a part of the international Slow Food organization as well as a subsidiary of Slow Food USA. This is the first year for the event, and it’s taking place in San Francisco. There are four sessions in the Taste Pavilions tomorrow and Sunday. Earlier tonight, there was a press and media preview. The whole event was quite impressive, especially the Beer Pavilion put together by Beer Curator Dave McLean, owner of Magnolia, where they were serving 150 beers from 60 breweries on cask, draft and in bottles.

There are four bars like this one, made of beer bottles and the bar top is made from recycled beer bottle glass.

Dave McLean, the Beer Curator for Slow Food Nation, looking pleased with his creation.

 

For many more photos from the inaugural Slow Food Nation Beer Pavilion, visit the photo gallery.