Brookston Beer Bulletin

Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Picking Hops In The Moonlight

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Yesterday, we took our annual family-outing to pick hops at Moonlight Brewery in Sonoma County, California. Founder and brewmaster Brian Hunt has a quarter-acre he planted several years ago after Vinnie Cilurzo, from Russian River Brewing, had to pull out the hops he had at Korbel when he moved the brewery to Santa Rosa. Russian River’s now growing their own and Moonlight has continued to keep his hopfield going, using the hops primarily to brew his fresh hop beer Homegrown.

I’ve been volunteering to help pick hops for a number of years now, and began taking the family a few years ago, recreating how it would have been done in he later Nineteenth century before hops were harvested using machinery. In those days, the entire community would turn out to pick the hops, with the men working the fields, women putting on lavish picnic spreads (and helping with the picking) and the kids pitching in andalso playing among the hopvines. It’s great fun and really does feel like the community coming together to help out. Everyone does their part, and we all talk and laugh while sitting in the circle and picking the hops.

The Abbey de St. Humulus hop field, a.k.a. Moonlight Brewery
The Abbey de St. Humulus hop field, a.k.a. Moonlight Brewery

Through the hop field
The beautiful green of hops in the field, ripe for the picking.

Alice outstanding in her field ... hop field, that is.
My daughter Alice outstanding in her field … hop field, that is.

Hops as far as the eye can see
Hops on the vine, as far as the eye can see.

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A close-up of the hop cones, the flowers that will be picked and added to the beer.

The the clipping are bundled up, as demonstrated here by Brian Hunt
Moonlight brewmaster Brian Hunt holding a bundle of hops, freshly cut down for picking.

Picking the hops
The hopvines are placed in the center of a circle, where people work on each vine, pulling the hops off by hand and putting them into a plastic bucket.

My wife Sarah and her hop vine
My wife Sarah showing off her hop-picking skills.

Below is a slideshow of our family outing to pick hops. This Flickr gallery is best viewed in full screen. To view it that way, after clicking on the arrow in the center to start the slideshow, click on the button on the bottom right with the four arrows pointing outward on it, to see the photos in glorious full screen. Once in full screen slideshow mode, click on “Show Info” to identify each photo.

And below is a short video of cutting down the hops and taking them to be picked.

You Should Know Jack

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Jack McAuliffe may just be the most elusive figure in the short history of craft beer. He was craft before craft beer was cool. The former Navy man and engineer founded the very first modern microbrewery in Sonoma County, California in 1976 (New Albion incorporated October 8, 1976) and began production the following year using a brewery he built from spare parts. His New Albion Brewery was all alone for at least three years until Sierra Nevada Brewing joined him in 1980, essentially doubling the number of new breweries.

But New Albion was a bit ahead of its time and by 1982 was out of business. As I understand it, a disheartened McAuliffe tired of reliving his brewery’s failure, and eventually disappeared from the burgeoning beer community that his efforts inspired. For a number of years, few people knew where he was, but Maureen Ogle managed to track him down living in Las Vegas when she was working on Ambitious Brew and provides one of the fullest accounts of the New Albion Brewery beginning at Page 291. More recently, after a bad car accident landed McAuliffe in intensive care, he moved to San Antonio, Texas to live with his sister. Happily, San Antonio has taken to their adopted son, and the San Antonio Express-News had a nice story about Jack and his new collaboration with Sierra Nevada Brewing, San Antonio’s Jack McAuliffe is namesake of commemorative Sierra Nevada beer.

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Ken Grossman pours a beer for Jack McAuliffe as (I think) Charlie Bamforth looks on.

The latest collaboration beer celebrating Sierra Nevada’s 30th anniversary this year is based on a beer that Jack used to make at New Albion for another annual celebration.

In the late ’70s, New Albion brewed a special beer for annual Summer Solstice parties that didn’t particularly hew to any style, but occupied a space somewhere between a porter and a barley wine.

Using that concept and the ingredients that were available at the time, Ken and Jack’s Ale recipe was born. It contains Canadian two-row and European caramel barley and a combination of Cascade and cluster hops.

Grossman describes the beer as a “dark barleywine that is bottle fermented.” It clocks in at 10 percent ABV, which McAuliffe points out is the upper limit of what conventional yeast can survive. Like any beer, you can drink this one right away, but it will likely improve with age.

It’s certainly great to see Jack McAuliffe in the public eye again. Few people deserve to be more well-known in the beer world than him. It’s a real shame that so few people know Jack and his contribution to the modern craft beer community. We all really should know Jack. Hell, I think October 8 should be considered the birthday of modern craft beer, which in a couple of weeks will celebrate its 34th. Let’s all raise a toast to Jack, every year, on that day.

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Jack & Ken’s Ale, a black barley wine.

Miette’s Stout Cupcakes

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Alton Brown, from the Food Network, recently handed down his choices for the Nation’s Top Ten Sweets. Making the list for the “Best Beer-Spiked Cupcake” was the Bay Area’s own Miette. With two locations in San Francisco (the Ferry Building & Hayes Valley) and one in Oakland (at Jack London Square), here’s how Brown describes them:

A former dot-commer started this mini-chain after a successful stint at the Berkeley Farmers’ Market, and her gingerbread cupcake might be the reason for Miette’s popularity. Made with a dark stout beer, it’s super moist and topped with lightly sweetened cream-cheese frosting and a candied orange flower.

A cake made with beer, and picked as one of the best in America? That’s something I just had to eat. So I stopped by the Ferry Building location last week to try one for myself. Because it was late in the day, they were actually out of the cupcakes, but they did have a full-sized cake left. So I splurged on the whole cake. Besides, like beer, sweets are best when they’re shared.

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Miette’s website describes their Gingerbread cake and cupcakes as “[o]ur all~time best selling cake. Made with a dark stout beer, molasses, ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon and cardamom then topped with a sweet cream cheese frosting.” I spoke to the manager of the Ferry Building Miette’s, and she checked with the owner about what beer they used. It turned out they use Guinness as the stout for the cake.

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So how does it taste? It was quite delicious, especially paired with a nice stout. It was extremely moist and the ginger worked wonderfully with the beer. It’s very rich. The sweetly delicate icing was a great compliment to the flavors in the cake. It’s easy to see why it’s their best-seller. My only criticism? I would like to see them perhaps use a locally brewed stout. There are plenty of tasty stouts made in the Bay Area. But apart from that, definitely pick up Miette’s lovely gingerbread beer cupcake or cake.

Mendocino Brewing Acquires Butte Creek

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Ukiah’s Mendocino Brewing announced today that it’s acquired Butte Creek Brewing and “will be brewing these beers at its state-of-the-art brewery at Ukiah, CA.” Butte Creek was originally founded Chico, California, in 1998 by former brewers from Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.

From the press release:

Butte Creek Beer — “The Official Beer of Planet Earth.”

Butte Creek’s mission statement has been: “At Butte Creek Brewing, we handcraft award winning earth-friendly organic ales and lagers. Since 1998, we have been committed to producing organic products focused on quality, balance, and true hop flavor. We support organic farming and promote sustainability in our community. We fight against global warming by reducing our carbon imprint.”

Mendocino Brewing CEO, Yashpal Singh, had this to say about the acquisition. “We’re proud to be the brewers of ‘The Official Beer of Planet Earth’. We fully endorse and will pursue Butte Creek’s mission. This acquisition blends perfectly with our own policy of brewing quality, full-bodied ales for the discerning beer lover.”

Mendocino Brewing Company will brew and market Butte Creek brands under its dba Butte Creek Brewing Company.

Anchor Sale Completed

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It appears we’re in for a day of beer business news. Anchor Brewing Co. today is officially Anchor Brewers & Distillers, LLC, with the deal to purchase the brewery and the Anchor spirits division now completed by the Griffin Group. They’ve also announced a strategic partnership with Berry Bros. & Rudd, the UK’s “oldest wine and spirits merchant,” which was founded in the 17th century.

From the press release:

“Today marks a major milestone, culminating our work with Fritz Maytag to maintain the time-honored legacy of Anchor Brewing Company in San Francisco,” said Tony Foglio, Chairman of Anchor Brewers & Distillers.

Keith Greggor, CEO of Anchor Brewers & Distillers continued, “In addition to fostering the culture of craft brewing and artisan distilling in San Francisco, there is an undeniable affinity for Anchor beers and spirits around the globe. To support this interest, we’ll be advancing our commitment internationally through a partnership with Berry Bros. & Rudd.”

With a primary focus on the spirits portfolio, Anchor Brewers & Distillers has established a strategic partnership with Berry Bros. & Rudd, Britain’s oldest wine and spirits merchant with a history that spans over 300 years. Through the strategic partnership, Anchor Brewers & Distillers will introduce two of Berry Bros. & Rudd’s award-winning spirits not currently available in the US exclusively in San Francisco in the Fall 2010.

“This is an ideal partnership for Berry Bros. & Rudd as Anchor Brewers & Distillers shares our passion and dedication for fostering the heritage of hand-crafted, premium spirits brands, while also making them available to a growing global market,” added Jeremy Parsons, CEO of Berry Bros. & Rudd Spirits.

With the closing of the acquisition and the partnership with Berry Bros. & Rudd, Anchor Brewers & Distillers is further reinforcing its intention to establish a “Center of Excellence” in San Francisco for craft brewers and artisan distillers from around the world. Much like Berry Bros. & Rudd’s No. 3 St. James’s Street in London, whose doors first opened in 1698, the Anchor Brewers & Distillers “Center of Excellence” will serve as an epicenter of development, education, entertainment and innovation, all designed to further contribute to the culture and heritage of craft beer and artisan spirits.

“Throughout Anchor’s history, quality, tradition and innovation have been cornerstones to its success. There has been an evolution of Anchor’s ownership over the last 140 years with each owner contributing to the ongoing legacy of Anchor,” added Fritz Maytag. “Tony and Keith share that commitment wholeheartedly, as well as a commitment to evolving the Anchor legacy by partnering with companies like Berry Bros. & Rudd that have embraced those same values for over 300 years.”

In addition, the San Francisco Chronicle has more details in Anchor Brewing acquisition is official, in their business section.

Bistro IPA Festival Winners 2010

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Rodger Davis’ IPAX IPA, from Triple Rock in Berkeley, California, was chosen best in show at the 13th annual IPA Festival earlier today at the Bistro in Hayward, California. The full list of winners is below.

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Me and Rodger Davis, brewer of the first place IPAX IPA at this year’s IPA Festival at The Bistro.

A Rose Is A Rose Is A Rose

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As Gertrude Stein — who was born in Oakland — famously said, “A rose is a rose is a rose.” On the other side of that coin, an alcohol tax masquerading as a fee is a tax, and a terrible idea, no matter what you call it. Today’s San Francisco Examiner, in their Under the Dome section on City Hall Politics, is reporting that Avalos hopes renaming alcohol fee makes it more potable to business. Apparently small businesses don’t like the newly proposed alcohol tax, but supervisor Avalos has the solution. Forget addressing their concerns, admitting it’s a bad idea or even conceding he was duped by the Marin Institute, no. His answer is to change the name of the “alcohol mitigation fee” to “alcohol cost recovery fee” so that — and I quote — “businesses might find the proposal a bit more refreshing.” How stupid does he think people are? You have to wonder.

Action Alert: SF Alcohol Fee Vote Fast Tracked

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Well we thought the vote was going to be delayed on the proposed ordinance in San Francisco to impose a fee on all alcohol sold in the city, but it turns out that’s no longer the case, which is a blow to fair play and common sense. Apparently the ordinance’s sponsor, supervisor John Avalos, recently realized that if Prop. 26 passes this November then a vote on the fee will be moot, because that proposition ends the practice of taxes masquerading as fees and all taxes, whether they pretend they’re fees or not, will be subject to a 2/3 margin instead of a simple majority. The proposition is sponsored by the group Stop Hidden Taxes.

To avoid that possibility, supervisor Avalos is instead fast tracking the ordinance and, according to the Small Business Commission, will present it “at the Budget and Finance committee meeting of the Board of Supervisors on August 4 — this is BEFORE the Small Business Commission will be able to make its recommendation (due to happen on August 9) and before he said he would be presenting the ordinance during the last Small Business Commission meeting. He is not sticking to his promises. He is changing the game.”

What Can You Do?

August 2:

If you own a small business in San Francisco, please consider attending the Small Business Commission meeting on Monday August 2 and most important at the Supervisor’s Budget and Finance Committee meeting at 1:00 pm on August 4 (though some earlier sources say the meeting is at 11:00 a.m., so check to be sure). There is expected to be a major rally at 11:00 in front of City Hall by proponents of the tax (firefighters union, healthcare union, etc.). At this hearing, the committee will take public comment.

August 10:

The ordinance will then go to the Board of Supervisors meeting on Tuesday, August 10th at 2:00 pm. If you’re a San Francisco consumer of alcoholic beverages, please consider attending this meeting and telling the board of supervisors that you drink responsibly and do not burden the city’s services and should therefore not be punished by having this tax imposed.

September 7:

On this day, the ordinance will go to the Board of Supervisors again for a second vote. There is no public comment or discussion — this is a formality vote.

September 8:

It then goes to the Mayor, who has 10 days to veto or sign. If he vetoes it, there will be a major effort by the Marin Institute to get the Supervisors to override the veto with a 2/3 vote.

The Two Most Important Things You Can Do

  1. Write or e-mail your supervisor and urge him or her to vote no against the Alcohol Mitigation Fee Ordinance. There is information to assist you in letter-writing or e-mailing at the California Alliance for Hospitality Jobs website.
  2. Attend the August 10th, 2:00 pm, Board of Supervisors meeting.

Vinnie’s 40th Birthday Party

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This Sunday, Vinnie Cilurzo, founder and brewmaster at Russian River Brewing, turned forty. His wife Natalie pulled out all the stops and made it a two-day celebration, beginning with a barbecue at the production brewery.

Vinnie & Terrence Sullivan, from Sierra Nevada, filling barrels
We arrived a little early, and Vinnie and Terrence Sullivan, assistant brewer at Sierra Nevada Brewing was there with kegs of a beer that Vinnie brewed in Chico, and they were now filling into wine barrels to store in the barrel room for aging. The beer is for a special project for next year, and I can’t say more than that at this point.

My son Porter & Terrence's son Riley in Russian River's barrel room
We brought our kids along and happily so did Terrence and his wife. Their son Riley and Porter got along immediately and were thick as thieves playing in the barrel room and the rest of the brewery.

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We dropped the kids off at Grandma’s, put them to bed, and rejoined the party, which had moved to the brewpub, where we caught up again with Natalie and Vinnie.

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Natalie had a bunch of great cupcakes made, including several custom ones with a few logos you may recognize.

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The band playing was one of Vinnie’s favorites, The Famous, a San Francisco band. They even did a special song for the occasion, Pliny the Elder.

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Vinnie and me toward the end of the evening. The next day, we had brunch at Willie BIrds, near the brewery. After that, the party resumed back at the brewpub, but sadly without us. It was time to get the kids home.

Below is a slideshow of Vinnie’s 40t birthday party. This Flickr gallery is best viewed in full screen. To view it that way, after clicking on the arrow in the center to start the slideshow, click on the button on the bottom right with the four arrows pointing outward on it, to see the photos in glorious full screen. Once in full screen slideshow mode, click on “Show Info” to identify each photo.

Beer In Art #86: Erik Olsen’s Faux Beer Posters

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Today’s works of art are by an illustrator apparently living in the Bay Area, Erik Olsen. I say apparently, because a number of the links from his blogs are dead ends, and the faux beer poster’s I’m highlighting here were abandoned in 2006 after only three posts on that blog, Faux Posters. He created three posters as an homage to the great beer posters on the early 20th century. There he described the idea for the project:

It’s a tribute to some of the great poster designs in the early twentieth century. (Specifically those early French beer posters) Our first series is focused on the theme “beer”, each series of 12 prints will be focused on a new topic with limited prints runs. We have many sizes of prints available, everything for the beginner collector to the serious collector. Stay tuned as we add new Images and new themes to our gallery as we design more Faux Prints!

Unfortunately, only these three were done, beginning with the monster below.

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Bete Biere translates as “Beast Beer,” with the slogan “Ugly But Delicious.”

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Biere de Sirene, essentially the Siren’s Beer and the slogan is “Faire attention a l’Appel” or “Heed the Call.”

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“Biere Prehistorique,” simply Prehistoric Beer, “Aged to Perfection.”

The first and the third are available for purchase as a poster, but it’s looks like he abandoned the project before the Mermaid was made available.

You can read Olsen’s biography and see his resume. There’s also a portfolio at his personal website and a few more on Coroflot.