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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Drinking Life & Limb

November 12, 2009 By Jay Brooks

sierra-nevada dogfish
You probably remember the big news back in August when Dogfish Head and Sierra Nevada announced they’d be doing not one, but two collaboration beers. The main one is called Life & Limb, while the second is Limb & Life, a small beer made from the second runnings of Life & Limb.

To launch the new collaboration, a beer dinner was held last Sunday at Ana Mandara in San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf. Both Sam Calagione, from Dogfish Head and Ken Grossman, from Sierra Nevada were on hand for the dinner.

Hosts Ken Grossman & Sam Calagione
Ken Grossman and Sam Calagione

Limb & Life, the draft-only “Imperial small beer,” was served with hors d’oeuvres while Ken and Sam talked about their collaboration together.

The five-course meal had two beers paired with each dish, one from each brewery. We started with Limb & Life and then Life & Limb was served as the last beer of the evening, with dessert. In addition, at the end of the night we finagled a bottle of Life & Limb to compare with the draft version. Personally, I preferred the bottle. Bottle-conditioning gave it a richer mouthfeel and added complexity.

I was fortunate to sit with Sam and Ken for the dinner, as they discussed the project. While Sam has done many collaborations with both domestic and foreign breweries over the years, this was Sierra Nevada’s first one. If you can find a copy of All About Beer magazine from around this time last year, you can read my feature story on collaboration beers. I love the growing trend of collaboration beers, especially when, like this one, some thought is put into it. This makes the results more meaningful, and not simply a marketing effort. Everything about it was well done, especially the artwork for the label, done by a children’s book illustrator.

Life & Limb label artwork

Below is a slideshow of the Life & Limb beer dinner. This Flickr gallery is best viewed in full screen. To view it that way, after clicking on the arrow in the center to start the slideshow, click on the button on the bottom right with the four arrows pointing outward on it, to see the photos in glorious full screen. Once in full screen slideshow mode, click on “Show Info” to identify each photo.

Filed Under: Beers, Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: Beer Dinner, California, Delaware, Northern California, Photo Gallery, Video

Cathedral Hill Closes

October 30, 2009 By Jay Brooks

beer-chef
Today was the last day that the Cathedral Hill Hotel on Van Ness in San Francisco was open. All guests must check out by noon tomorrow. The hotel will then be closed until it’s knocked down to make way for a new hospital.

The Beer Chef, Bruce Paton, held his last beer dinner there last Friday, October 23. It featured the beers of Portland, Maine’s Allagash and owner Rob Tod. Over 120 people were on hand for the dinner, the second-largest turnout for one of the beer dinners at the hotel.

Below is a slideshow of the Allagash beer dinner last Friday. This Flickr gallery is best viewed in full screen. To view it that way, after clicking on the arrow in the center to start the slideshow, click on the button on the bottom right with the four arrows pointing outward on it, to see the photos in glorious full screen. Once in full screen slideshow mode, click on “Show Info” to identify each photo.

As for Bruce Paton, I got the following note from him today.

I will be continuing to do Beer and Food projects until I find another position. If you have questions, require some Beer and Food expertise or know someone who is seeking a Chef please feel free to contact me at bruce@beer-chef.com.

I know for sure that his annual beer and chocolate dinner is still being planned for early February during SF Beer Week and will most likely take place Friday, February 12, so keep an eye out on his website for more details.

Filed Under: Food & Beer, News Tagged With: California, Northern California, Photo Gallery, San Francisco

Seconding A Plea for Peaceful Coexistence

October 30, 2009 By Jay Brooks

pour-the
I’d like to second New York Times beverage writer Eric Asimov’s plea for the peaceful coexistence of wine and beer. In his blog, The Pour, on Tuesday Asimov wrote A Plea for Peaceful Coexistence, saying:

Beer and wine are not in competition. Yet people in the wine business, who I assure you drink an awful lot of beer, don’t often take it seriously as a beverage. And people in the beer business, perhaps in reaction to not-so-imaginary slights, rarely even acknowledge the existence of wine, much less deem it worthy of drinking.

Asimov is, in my opinion, one of the few wine writers who actually understands and appreciates beer. I’ve quoted him before here in the Bulletin, precisely because he’s not typical of a wine writer. He understands for example; “[c]raft beer’s battle is not against wine but against decades of cynical marketing from the giant breweries, which have done everything possible to portray beer drinkers as asinine fools.”

What he didn’t include (and I understand why) is that most of the attacks come from the wine side. The assaults are not by regular wine drinkers or even winemakers, who both happily consume beer, but primarily from lesser wine writers who, as far as I can tell, feel threatened by craft beer. But as a cross-drinker (I love wine, too), I’m constantly irritated when a wine writer lashes out against beer for no discernible reason. Regular Bulletin readers will no doubt recognize it’s a theme I’ve returned to many times — precisely because it keeps happening. Living and working in the heart of northern California’s wine region, I’m especially sensitive to the way wine coverage so completely overshadows coverage of craft beer. I believe my column, Brooks on Beer, is almost certainly the only newspaper column in the Bay Area that’s devoted to beer, while the ones exclusively wine-focused considerably outnumber mine.

Sure, there have been a growing number of beer vs. wine dinners, usually instigated by beer people, but that’s usually a defensive strategy and a way to prove a point. Even Asimov understands this, and I’ve quoted him before on this subject, where he’s said the following.

The two beverages in fact co-exist quite well, and therefore it irritates me when wine and beer are pitted against each other, especially when wine-lovers demean beer. Beer-lovers have a bit of catching up to do in terms of achieving status and understanding, so I have a little more tolerance for them when they feel compelled to demonstrate how well good beers can go with certain foods, usually at the expense of wine.

But in the end, his point is well-taken and one I would argue should be assimilated by any writer whose subject includes an alcoholic beverage. We’re all in this together. While we’re at it, I’d also like to suggest to all those media outlets who insist on calling their “sections” or “magazines” something along the lines of “Food and Wine,” yet include coverage of other beverages, change their name and obvious bias to something all-encompassing like “Food & Drink” or “Food & Beverages.”

Asimov’s parting words:

“Fellow wine lovers, fellow beer lovers, unite! We shall not permit ourselves to be pitted against one another. Do not be fooled by false choices. You do not have to choose beer or wine. Just good or bad.”

Amen to that.

Filed Under: Beers, Editorial, Food & Beer, Politics & Law Tagged With: Mainstream Coverage, New York Times, Wine

Final Beer Dinner At Cathedral Hill Coming October 23

October 9, 2009 By Jay Brooks

beer-chef
The final beer dinner to be held at the Cathedral Hill Hotel in San Francisco is scheduled for Friday, October 23. For the past eight years, the Beer Chef, Bruce Paton, has done over 60 beer dinners featuring beers from around the corner and across the world. But what you probably didn’t know is that many of the recent dinners have been done on borrowed time. A medical corporation owns the land that the hotel is situated on, and for many years has been planning on building a new hospital there. It’s been postponed several times already and the hotel’s been able to keep renting rooms and doing beer dinners. But that’s finally coming to a close as a date is now set and the Cathedral Hill Hotel will be closing. A week after the dinner, on Halloween, October 31, the hotel will be torn down.

The final beer dinner will feature the beers of Allagash Brewing and brewer/owner Rob Tod will be on hand to talk about his beers. It will be a four-course dinner, and well worth the $100 price of admission. It will begin with a reception at 6:30 p.m. Call 415.674.3406 for reservations before it’s sold out. Don’t delay, it will likely sell out quickly. I’ll see you there.

The Menu:

Reception: 6:30 PM

Beer Chef’s Hors D’Oeuvre
Beer: Allagash White

Dinner: 7:30 PM

First Course

Cannelloni of Dungeness Crab Legs with Citrus Lobster Sauce
Beer: Fluxus

Second Course:

Hobbs Applewood Bacon Fat Poached Duck Breast with Artichoke Fingerling Potato Hash
Beer: Hugh Malone

Third Course:

The Best of the Barnyard with Yam Crème Brule and Bloomsdale Spinach with Duck Ham
Beer: Odyssey

Fourth Course:

Sweet Trick or Treat
Beer: Vagabond

allagash-bdin-09
Bruce Paton, the Beer Chef, with Rob Tod, from Allgash, at an earlier beer dinner.

10.23
Dinner with the Brewmaster: Allagash
Cathedral Hill Hotel, 1101 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco, California
415.674.3406 [ website ]

Filed Under: Breweries, Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: Announcements, California, Northern California, San Francisco

Pollan’s Rules To Eat By

October 9, 2009 By Jay Brooks

apple
Michael Pollan, author of The Omnivore’s Dilemma, also a frequent contributor to the New York Times, in March asked for reader’s food rules. Over 2,600 people (2,681 as of this morning) posted a comment with their own food rules. On Tuesday, Pollan published a piece in the Times’ The Food Issue section of their magazine called Rules To Eat By where he discussed food rules philosophically and more practically. He’s still asking for your food rules, if you want to contribute. Some will be used in his forthcoming book, Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual.

rules-to-eat-by
Today, Pollan posted his 20 favorites from the thousands contributed. (Actually, the post is dated Oct. 11, so presumably it will be printed in this Sunday’s New York Times Magazine but was posted online early. Also, thanks to Lisa Morrison, the Beer Goddess, for tweeting this my way.) Here are a few of my favorites from his list:

  • Don’t yuck someone’s yum.
  • Never eat something that is pretending to be something else.
  • If you are not hungry enough to eat an apple, then you are not hungry.
  • Avoid snack foods with the “oh” sound in their name: Doritos, Cheetos, Fritos, Tostitos, Hostess Ho Hos, etc.

Filed Under: Food & Beer, Just For Fun, Related Pleasures Tagged With: Food, Lists

Firestone Walker Beer Dinner: The 2nd Last At Cathedral Hill

October 3, 2009 By Jay Brooks

beer-chef
Last night was the second to last beer dinner that will take place at the Cathedral Hill Hotel in San Francisco. The hotel is scheduled to be torn down on Halloween to make way for a new hospital. The Beer Chef, Bruce Paton, put on four wonderful courses paired with the beers of Firestone Walker Brewing in Paso Robles, California. Brewer Matt Brynildson was on hand to talk about his beers.

Bruce & Matt Brynildson
The Beer Chef, Bruce Paton, with Firestone Walker brewer Matt Brynildson.

Below is a slideshow of the beer dinner. After clicking on the arrow in the center to start the slideshow, you can also click on the button on the bottom right with the four arrows pointing outward on it, to see the photos in glorious full screen. Once in full screen slideshow mode, click on “Show Info” to identify who and what’s in the photos.

The final beer dinner at the Cathedral Hill Hotel will take place on October 23. Keep an eye on the Beer Chef website for details.

Filed Under: Beers, Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: Beer Dinner, California, Northern California, San Francisco

Russian River Beer Dinner

September 19, 2009 By Jay Brooks

russian-river
Last night the third-to-last beer dinner was held by Bruce Paton, the Beer Chef, at the Cathedral Hill Hotel. The dinner featured the beers of Russian River Brewing. We also had a surprise guest, Jeff Lebesch, founder and original brewer from New Belgium Brewing, who along with his girlfriend and other friends, had been sailing the San Francisco Bay to celebrate Jeff’s birthday. It was a great beer dinner, and now there are only two left: Firestone Walker and Allagash later this year.

Natalie, Bruce & Vinnie
Natalie and Vinnie Cilurzo presented Bruce with a special signed bottle of Temptation.

Our Table
Our table, clockwise from bottom left: Jeff Lebesch, New Belgium founder, his girlfriend Zia, an early employee, Peter Bouckaert, New Belgium’s head brewer, Dave Keene and Jen Smith, and Natalie and Vinnie Cilurzo.

Below is a short slideshow of the Russian River beer dinner. If you click on the button on the bottom right with the four arrows pointing outward on it, you can see the photos in glorious full screen.

Filed Under: Beers, Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: Beer Dinner

First Beer & Bacon Festival Scheduled

September 10, 2009 By Jay Brooks

bacon
Ah, to be in Baltimore in the fall. The sound of pirates, the taste of beer and the sizzling goodness of bacon. That has all the makings of a wonderfully wacky and enjoyable event. Clipper City Brewing has just announced the 1st annual Heavy Seas Beer & Bacon Festival — Pyrates, Pigs and Pints. It will take place on Saturday, September 19, 2009 at the brewery in Baltimore. If you don’t recognize the significance of September 19, it’s Talk Like A Pirate Day.

From the press release:

Clipper City Brewing Company, brewers of the Heavy Seas brand, is a proud supporter of National Talk Like A Pirate Day and a true fan of bacon the world over. In the hopes that all those aspiring pirates will join them in the celebration of this heritage, the brewers have banded together to create the 1st Annual Beer & Bacon Festival on September 19th from Noon – 4pm. Tickets are limited to the first 350 who sign on board and the day will be filled with over 15 types of bacon from all over the world to sample, ten beers to sample, the bacon explosion, live music from Dirty Secret and even HUMAN BACON — walking around. Many of Baltimore finest restaurants, bars and foodie haunts will be on hand including: Alonso’s, Bad Decisions, Ciao Bella, Crazy Lil’s, Abercrombie, Captain Thom, Marsh’s Chili, Whisky Island Spices, Pussy Kat Punters, Sweet Kascade’s, Kooper’s, Slainte, and many more.

It includes a bacon tasting! Now that’s a great idea. I need to attend more bacon tastings.

heavy-seas-bacon

Filed Under: Breweries, Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: Announcements, Bacon, Baltimore, Maryland

The Countdown Begins: 3 To Go

September 8, 2009 By Jay Brooks

beer-chef
There are only three more beer dinners left that will be held at the Cathedral Hill Hotel in San Francisco. For the past eight years, the Beer Chef, Bruce Paton, has done over 60 beer dinners featuring beers from around the corner and across the world. But what you probably didn’t know is that many of the recent dinners have been done on borrowed time. A medical corporation owns the land that the hotel is situated on, and for many years has been planning on building a new hospital there. It’s been postponed several times already and the hotel’s been able to keep renting rooms and doing beer dinners. But that’s finally coming to a close as a date is now set and the Cathedral Hill Hotel will be closing.

Only three more beer dinners will be held, and the first of those will take place on Friday, September 18. The dinner will feature the beers of Russian River Brewing. It will be a four-course dinner, and well worth the $100 price of admission. It will begin with a reception at 6:30 p.m. Call 415.674.3406 for reservations before it’s sold out. I’ll see you there.

The Menu:

Reception: 6:30 PM

Beer Chef’s Hors D’Oeuvre
Beer: Huge Large Sound Czech Pils

Dinner: 7:30 PM

First Course

A Mélange of Delicacies from the Sea
Beer: Temptation

Second Course:

Salad of Pepper Cress, Crispy Sweetbread, Cage Free Egg, Cambazola Cheese, Duck Prosciutto, Oven Dried Toy Box Cherry Tomatoes, Avocado, Roasted Corn Vinaigrette
Beer: Empirical 7

Third Course:

Beer Chef’s Surf and Turf
Beer: Hopfather

Fourth Course:

Chocolation
Beer: Consecration and Salvation

tion-din-01
Bruce Paton, the Beer Chef, with Vinnie Cilurzo, from Russian River Brewing, at an earlier beer dinner.

9.18
Dinner with the Brewmaster: Russian River Brewing
Cathedral Hill Hotel, 1101 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco, California
415.674.3406 [ website ]

Filed Under: Events, Food & Beer Tagged With: Beer Dinner, Russian River Brewing, San Francisco

Happy International Bacon Day

September 5, 2009 By Jay Brooks

bacon
Happy International Bacon Day everybody. It’s a relatively new holiday, to be held each year on the Saturday before Labor Day Monday. If you’re a regular Bulletin reader, you already know of my unbridled love of bacon. I already had some for breakfast and am now plotting how to work it into the rest of today’s meals.

mans-best-friend

It’s no secret, of course, that beer and bacon work very well together. Rauchbiers and other smoked beers often have bacon aromas. But as far as I’m concerned, bacon pairs nicely with many styles of beer. But what about a bacon beer?
beer+bacon
Well, it turns out that at least two breweries are making one. First, Garrett Oliver is making one for the bowling alley, Brooklyn Bowl, that’s across the street from the Brooklyn Brewery.

Using a special malt smoked in the same room as the bacon made by Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams of Tennessee, he’s making a bacon barley wine ale. Picking up the story from the New York Times:

[Brooklyn Brewery] plans to brew about 15 gallons of barleywine with that malt. In the meantime, he’s been infusing a brown ale with the flavor of Benton’s bacon fat through a technique known as “fat washing.” (Nick Fauchald described the process in this profile of the bartender Eben Freeman.) Oh, and the bacon-fat-infused ale was also aged in bourbon barrels, because bourbon and bacon go together like, um, beer and bacon.

Eventually, the barleywine with the bacon-smoked malt and the bourbon-aged, bacon-fat-infused ale would be blended to create one monstrously bizarre beer.

“One of two things will happen,” Mr. Oliver predicted. “Either this will be the most amazingly disgusting thing you’ve ever tasted in your life. Or I shall rule the earth.”

A little closer to home, the Uncommon Brewers down in Santa Cruz are also working on a Bacon Brown Ale. Given their track record of successfully using uncommon ingredients in their beer, I’m actually optimistic that they could pull this off. Bacon is being used these days in all manner of different ways, so it’s only a matter of time before somebody perfects a bacon beer.

Filed Under: Beers, Food & Beer, Related Pleasures Tagged With: Bacon, Holidays

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