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History in a Glass

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courthouse-pub
This is the kind of story that exemplifies the best in craft brewing, at least in my opinion. There used to be a brewery in Manitowoc County, in the small town of Two Rivers, Wisconsin (pop. <11,261) by the name of Two Rivers Beverage Co. It’s earlier names were Mueller Bros. Brewing Co. and City Brewery prior to Prohibition. But afterward, it was known by Two Rivers and lasted until about 1966. One of their most popular beers was apparently White Cap beer, which they made from 1939 until 1963.

Carl and Chris Liebich, the children of Harold Liebich, the former co-owner of Two Rivers, asked John Jagemann, owner of the Courthouse Pub, a brewpub in nearby Manitowoc, if he would be willing to brew up a batch of White Cap for a family and brewery reunion they’d planned on hosting. The brewpub said they’d need the recipe, of course, and Harold’s brother George, with whom Harold ran the brewery from 1952 until it closed, found it in the attic of his California home. Parts of the recipe dated from 1915 and were written in German, but it was complete. The Courthouse Pub’s head brewer in Canada, John Downing, put together a version of it that would work in the brewpub’s system and Brent Boeldt, brewmaster at the Wisconsin location, brewed it up for the reunion, which took place Sunday. Today the brewpub will release White Cap for public consumption. Jagemann describes the beer as a lighter style beer and told the local paper that “[i]f it sells well, it can become one of our standard beers.” Now that’s a fun little story. There was a great little article detailing all of this in today’s Manitowoc Herald Times Reporter.
 

brent-boeldt
Brent Boeldt of Courthouse Pub brewpub in Manitowoc, Wisconsin,
holding a pint of White Cap beer.
(Photo by Jaslyn Gilbert, Herald Times Reporter)

The Lost Abbey and Brewer’s Blogs

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I got an e-mail from Tomme Arthur yesterday, letting the cat out of the bag, so to speak, on his Brewer’s Blog. I don’t think he was planning on it being a secret, but it is just getting started. From the few posts there so far, it looks like it should evolve into a fascinating peek into Tomme’s mind and the work and thinking that goes into running a brewery and building a brand. If you love his beers — and you’d be a fool not to — you will undoubtedly enjoy his musings, as well. I’m looking forward to following along.

Although blogging may take time away from his Washoe practice which, as Dave Keene can tell you, he clearly needs (yes, that sound you heard is the gauntlet being thrown down for a rematch).

This is a good trend, I think, of commercial brewers having their own blogs to let their customers behind the curtain to see how the process goes of working at, building or running a brewery. There are now several professional brewers with a brewer’s blog. Below is a list of the ones I know of. If you know of any others, please let me know as I think it’s high time I added a new category of links just for them.
 

Brewer’s Blogs

Health Claims for Beer Forbidden in Canada

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There was an interesting rant in today’s Canada Free Press by a Dr. W. Gifford Jones who was incensed about a Canadian brewer who was told he could not inform his customers about any health claims about his beer whatsoever under Canadian law. Dr. Jones used that incident as a jumping off place to question the hypocrisy in this aspect of Canadian society, which undoubtedly parallels that of the U.S., at least with respect to this issue.

Baron Brewing’s Jeff Smiley Elected Beer Commissioner

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The Seattle Times reported that Jeff Smiley of Baron Brewing was recently elected Commissioner of Washington State’s newly created “Beer Commission.”

According to the Brewers Association’s Director, Paul Gatza, he believes Washington’s “commission may be the first state-sanctioned promotional group for craft brewers.”

Gatza continued:

“That it’s part of the state government system, that it’s recognized as a pretty important agricultural product to the state, makes it exciting,” he said. “When you’re dealing with an alcoholic beverage industry, it’s hard to get the state to get anywhere near it except to regulate it. But to promote the quality of the state’s beers is just a wonderful direction.”

It’s certainly great to see a state take an active interest in promoting craft beer. It implies they recognize the importance of small, local businesses and want to help support them.

I’ve met Jeff on many occasions and he seems like a great person for the job. I hope he does a terrific job and other states use Washington state as a model to do their own similar beer commissions.

The new Beer Commissioner, Jeff Smiley (at far right), along with beer writer Fred Eckhardt, “Crazy Dave” Heist, owner of HopTown Brewing Co. in Pleasanton, California (in back), and Jeff’s wife, homebrewing enthusiast Kate Gaiser. This was taken at GABF in 2005.

Heineken’s Casino Royale Commercial

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007-2 heineken
The new James Bond movie, Casino Royale, opened this weekend, and supposedly he drinks a Heineken in the movie, for which the Bond production company was paid an undisclosed six-figures. I’ve already ranted about this before. I don’t like Heineken and I’m not a fan of most product placement, although others have convincingly pointed out that even in Fleming’s novels Bond used brand names as a way of showing the character’s sophistication. Here’s the Heineken print ad

casino-royale-heineken

I certainly agree that beer shouldn’t be shaken or stirred, but if it is indeed all about the beer, then it can’t be about Heineken. Heineken may be popular, but it’s a lousy beer, too often skunked due to the green bottle and even when not lighstruck is a pedestrian pilsner at best. James Bond is all about the finer things in life, and Heineken is definitely not one of them, beer-wise. But enough carping, I love James Bond. Here is the television commercial they shot on the set of the new film with Bond girl Eva Green. Despite what it’s advertising, it’s a pretty funny ad.

But I have to admit a certain fondness for the poster art from the original Casino Royale, which had almost nothing to do with the story in the novel, but which had it’s own goofy charm nonetheless and included such big name stars as David Niven (which was Ian Fleming’s ideal Bond), Peter Sellers, Woody Allen, Ursula Andress, Deborah Kerr, Orson Welles, George Raft and John Huston.

casino-royale-art

UPDATE (11/20): Okay, this is a little strange, but I saw the film yesterday (it was terrific, BTW) and I didn’t see one elbow bent with a beer, Heineken or otherwise. That strikes me as quite odd given the amount of coverage a few months ago about that very issue, that Heineken had paid a pile of cash precisely so James Bond would be seen actually drinking a beer, complete with fabricated justifications to boot. I didn’t even see the Heineken logo anywhere in the background (apart from being listed in the credits). It’s certainly possible I missed it but I do have pretty strong beer-dar for these things. Just ask my wife. If there’s beer in a film I tend to point it out, much to her exasperation. Did it end up on the cutting room floor or did they change their minds? It’s not like they didn’t pimp other brands. Ford (who also owns Aston-Martin) was in plain sight, and Bond mentioned his Omega watch by name. So I’d love to know what happened to de-rail the million dollar plus deal. I didn’t hear much outcry, really, apart from a few shrill words on my part, hardly enough to sour such a lucrative tie-in. Anybody know why they didn’t go through with the Heineken plan?

2006 Sales of Beer by Style

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I get regular e-mails from the publisher of the DBBB, the Domestic Brewers Bottled Brands, with trends in beer sales and other press release information. Today’s e-mail included a chart of IRI Data by beer style showing sales of beer from the beginning of the year through November 6th of this year. IRI is short for Information Resources, Inc., a company that surveys sales of beer (and everything else) from over 15,000 retailers (mostly groceries) in the U.S. As a result, their data is invariably skewed toward the national and regional brands since it doesn’t take into account direct sales and sales from small mom & pop stores. I used to get IRI data from almost every medium to large brewer who called on me when I was a beer buyer for a chain of liquor stores. And while it’s not accurate for craft beer in specific, it does give you a general idea of certain trends, especially when you follow it over a period of time.

 

Chief Beer Officer: Dream Job or Best Promotion Ever?

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Simultaneously in a full-page ad in the Wall Street Journal, on Monster.com and Yahoo’s Hot Jobs listings, Starwood Hotels’ Four Points by Sheraton posted a job listing for Chief Beer Officer, an intriguing job title if ever there was one. And with a job title so likely to get a record number of applicants, it made the news, too, as several news outlets ran stories about the position, such as Marketing Daily, BrandWeek and Hotel Chatter.

It certainly sounds like a job any beer geek would feel fortunate to get, and I think that’s why it sounds too good to be true. First of all, the stories about it and the online application itself are just a little too clever, too tongue in cheek to be a serious job offer. And you’re not actually hired by the company, but will be an independent contractor, a part-time consultant. The pay is unspecified (though apparently there’s a generous travel allowance) and requires less than one years experience yet is considered to be “Executive Management” and according to Monster.com is at the “Senior Executive” level, on par with the President and CFO.

The online application also includes a short quiz to test your beer knowledge but the questions are so telescoped that only the truly dull-witted could fail to ace it. For example, one question is “Which is not a variety of hop?” And your choice of answers is “Amarillo, Boy George, Fuggle and Williamette.” Another is “Name one of life’s joys that can accompany goat cheese?” And here the answers could be “Basketball, Acoustic guitar, or Beer drinking.” They’re all like that, so I can’t help but think this is just a clever promotion and whoever gets the job will be a random winner, not that that makes the new CBO position any less enviable.

Starwood did announce at the end of the award ceremonies at this year’s GABF that they were launching the “Best Brews” program at all of their locations, with the help of the Brewers Association. The program is designed to offer a better beer menu than the average chain hotel bar and restaurant. Four Points in L.A. has been hosting some wonderful beer dinners for some time now and I can only imagine their success with good beer may have been the inspiration for this program.

Here’s the job listing on Yahoo:

Help Wanted: Chief Beer Officer® (CBO)

Four Points® by Sheraton seeks Chief Beer Officer to act as independent, part-time consultant for their Best Brews Program. This fall, Four Points by Sheraton, purveyor of pie and champions of contentment, is launching their Best Brews Program. In addition to featuring over 200 domestic and imported beers, they are seeking a Chief Beer Officer. The successful candidate will have a passion for beer, a basic understanding of brewing and an interest in further educating themselves about this glorious libation.
 

CBO duties will include:

  • Act as a beer ambassador for the hotel at microbrewery tours, beer festivals and on bar stools across the country.
  • Develop an intimate knowledge of the over 200 domestic and imported beers that are part of the Best Brews Program (which will be supplied to the candidate)
  • Introduce these to the public through monthly blog reviews.
  • Brew eloquence and a bubbly personality are both a plus.

 
Are you ready to make your love affair with beer public? To apply please visit www.FourPoints.com/CBO. To be eligible, all one needs is a love for beer, a basic understanding of brewing, and an interest in learning more. You must be 21 years of age or older.

 

So what are you waiting for, apply now. Either way, it should be a hoot.

The Brewster of Salem

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The term “brewster” for a female brewer was used as far back as 1308, according to my O.E.D., when it was common for beer to be made by the woman of the household. Like many early crafts, once the industrial revolution changed the way our society functioned, men generally took over as brewers with the rise of commercial breweries. There were, of course, many commercial beer ventures before that time, but it was the mid-1800s that sealed the fate for the majority of female brewers, and the term fell into disuse. I actually have always liked the word, and I know several women brewers who also prefer the term. Today, only about 10% of all brewers are female.

One of them is Jen Kent, who was named the brewer at Thompson Brewery & Public House in Salem, Oregon at the end of July. Thompson’s is part of McMenamins chain. According to a profile in today’s Salem, Oregon Statesman Journal newspaper, Kent is called “the brew goddess” by her fellow workers and customers. It’s a nice name too, and certainly implies more power than a brewster. Teri Fahrendorf is also quoted in the profile, though she’s referred to as “a respected elder,” a label I think she’d probably object to. I certainly don’t think of Teri as an elder, though I do have the utmost respect for her. All in an all, a pretty good article.
 

Jen Kent, brewster at McMenamins’ Thompson Brewery & Public House in Salem, Oregon.
(Photo by Andrea J. Wright, Statesman Journal)

Rodger’s Jolly Rodger Times Seven

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Wednesday night, Drake’s Brewing had a fun little event at the Toronado called Seven Different Jolly’s, where they had seven different versions of their holiday beer, Jolly Rodger, from four different years. The recipe changes from year to year, and in ’05 they did two different styles, plus two years some of the beer was aged in wood, which accounts for why there were seven different beers. Both of Drake’s brewers, Rodger Davis and Melissa Myers, were on hand. I had the kids in tow since my S.O. was in Florida for the week, which meant I couldn’t stay all night, and as a consequence my notes are rather brief. But it was a very fun tasting.

The 21A Gals were kind enough to mind my daughter Alice, who had just woken up from a nap.

The seven Jolly Rodgers, in order from left to right the way we tasted them.

Rodger tasted me, and fellow beer scribe William Brand of the Oakland Tribune, on all seven of the beers. [the descriptions in the gray boxes are the ones provided by Drake’s.]
 

2003
A Scotch Ale. Based on the early 1800’s way of taxing ales, where more Shillings were charged to higher gravity ales, this would be considered ”120 Shilling” Ale. Big and malty from the addition of roasted barley this beer is balanced with two hop additions of East Kent Golding. The beer was then fermented at 50°F to keep the ester formation low so the malt would shine through. 9%ABV 30 IBUs

First up was the oldest of the gang, the 2003 version, a strong ale which was reminiscent of an imperial something, and though I hesitate to say it, over time the flavor seems to have migrated toward stout-like characteristics, no doubt from the roasted barley. Time also seems to have given it oak-like qualities though Rodger assures me it’s never touched wood. Regardless, it has very complex flavors and tastes nothing like I remember it three years ago.

2003 Barrel Aged
In the early 1800’s Scottish brewers would transfer their ales to barrels where they would condition for up to two years. Often these beers would sour over time from bacteria in the barrels. The 2003 Scotch Ale was placed into a Brandy barrel for 18 months. This version has a slight sourness to it but is quite complex with the many different wine-like aromas that come at you. 11% ABV 30 IBU’s

The scotch ale has become much more sour during it’s stay at casa leño, almost on the order of a Flemish sour. It has also added additional complexity, if that’s possible, and has a grittier mouthfeel.

2004
An American-style Red Ale. Think of it as a dark IPA. After 2003’s version we found the need to get back into a hoppy style but wanted to create a beer that had a firm malt backbone as well. Roasted barley lends a nice mahogany color as well as a nice roasted malt flavor. Hops: Horizon, Chinook and Centennial. 9.5% ABV 70 IBUs

Time has, as is be expected, muted the hop character and brought out the malt complexity. The alcohol also comes through loud and clear.

2005-A
An Imperial IPA. This is a very big beer. Crystal malt lends a nice ruby red backdrop to an onslaught of hops. How many pounds of different kinds of hops can you throw at a beer and still make it somewhat drinkable? It turns out a lot! Hops: Horizon, Simcoe, Cascade and Columbus. 11.5% ABV 80 IBU’s

This is still quite the hop bomb, and the Simcoe character is immediately apparent and dominant. It’s tasting surprisingly fresh, though the spicy hop oils scorch the tongue going down.

2005-B
An Old Ale. For our 15th Anniversary we decided to brew two different versions of Jolly Rodger, one a hop bomb and the other would be Roger Lind’s original recipe from 1990. So we broke out his original brew sheet and used his ingredients and threw our own brewing techniques at it. What we ended up with is a well-balanced ale that is lightly hopped with Galena, East Kent Goldings and Willamette hops. 9.5%ABV 40 IBU’s

I don’t have much in the way of notes for this beer. It tasted good, but reminded me a bit more of a barleywine than a true old ale, probably because it was at the upper end of alcohol content for the style. Of course, the two are related styles.

2005-B Barrel Aged
This is the Old Ale that was placed into an Apple Brandy barrel for 12 months. The first few months of aging, the beer was dominated by a green apple aroma with much of it slipping in to the flavor. Over time that has taken a backseat to the French oak the barrel is made of with apple Brandy notes reminding you what the barrels past was. 11%ABV 40 IBU’s

The Brandy barrel gave this beer sharper, almost biting flavors, and big fruity esters. The wood does indeed shine through, as does the increased alcohol.
 

Rodger with this year’s Jolly Rodger.
 

2006
An Imperial IPA. We have discovered that if hops are not used in the Jolly Rodger these days, then people become enraged. So here we go with another hop bomb. This one stems from a conversation with Pat McIlhenney (owner/brewer of Alpine Brewing) when he mentioned that he used a whopping two pounds of dry hops per barrel in his outstanding Duet beer. Most of our Imperial IPAs were about one pound per barrel! So what the hell, let’s see what that will do to one of our beers. Thanks for the advice Pat! This one REALLY goes to eleven!! Hops: Warrior, Simcoe, Summit, and Amarillo. 11%ABV 70 IBU’s

Rodger told me he used only a little of the new Summit hop, but its signature oniony aromas was the first thing I noticed in this beer. It is another hop bomb, very aromatic and only slightly restrained by the malt. I expect time will soften the hops and bring out the 2-row malt. He’ll also be doing another batch (which will be designated 2006-B) of the Jolly Rodger shortly and will substitute the Summit with Ahtanum hops.

 

Porter and Alice kept happily occupied watching Star Wars on a friend’s iPod, while we tasted the beers.

Rodger looking more jolly than usual, a welcome sight. It must be the just married glow.

Shipyard to Release Honey Porter

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Shipyard Brewing of Portland, Maine announced today that their 2007 Brewer’s Choice selection will be a Honey Porter. The beer will be for sale beginning in January of next year.

From the press release:

Each year, Brewer’s Choice features a new beer recipe created by Shipyard’s award-winning brew house team.

“This year, three recipes were submitted by our brewers,” noted master brewer Alan Pugsley. “Each beer was taste tested at select brew pubs in Maine, and Bruce Elam’s Honey Porter was the customer favorite and will now be distributed around the country.”

Elam believes Porter is an under appreciated style and hopes to change some minds with this brew.

“It’s exciting to have a little piece of your heart and soul out there for people to try,” said Elam.

Other contenders were David Hall’s Scotch Ale featuring a smoked malt flavor and Joe Rank’s Session Bitter showcasing his personal favorite, Mount Hood hops.

Shipyard will brew a 10,000 case run of Brewer’s Choice 2007 Honey Porter which will be available in 6-packs, 12-packs, and on draft.

The pleasing complexity of this limited edition brew comes from the interplay between the roasted nutty undertones of Crystal, Chocolate and Black malts and the sweetness of orange blossom honey. Balance is achieved by the addition of Warrior and Tettnang hops. Ample body and smooth mouth feel enhance drinkabilty. Don’t get stung and miss this one! 6.25% alcohol by volume.

I’ve had some wonderful honey porters over the years, and even Boston beer used to make a good one. Honey porters in my experience are excellent beers to use in cooking, too. It’s a shame you don’t see too many of them these days. I look forward to giving this one a try next year.