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Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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Historic Beer Birthday: Leonhard Eppig

March 4, 2026 By Jay Brooks

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Today is the birthday of Leonhard Eppig (March 4, 1839-April 9, 1893). He was born in Großwallstadt, Bavaria, and at age fifteen, in 1854, he came to New York on the S.S. Rotterdam and settled in Brooklyn. He learned to brew working for a Brooklyn brewer, Michael Seitz. In 1866, he and a partner formed the Hubert Fischer & Leonhard Eppig Brewery. Ten years later, he bought out his partner and it became simply the Leonard Eppig Brewing Co., but traded under the name Germania Brewery. From what I can tell Eppig’s name was spelled Leonhard, but it was often anglicized to Leonard, even on advertising. When Eppig died, his sons continued running the brewery until it was closed down by prohibition in 1920. They reopened the brewery after repeal, but in 1935 sold it to George Ehret Brewery.

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Here’s a short biography from Find-a-Grave:

Leonhard was born in Bavaria, Germany. He married Margarehta about 1854 and had at least 10 children, Anna, Euginia, John, Henry, Franz, Barbara, Theresa, Mary, Margaret and Regina, some of which are entombed in his mausoleum. Leonhard owned the Eppig Germania Brewery Company, which was located in Brooklyn.

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And here’s his obituary from the Brooklyn Daily Eagle:

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This lengthy story is from “A History of Long Island: From Its Earliest Settlement to the Present Time, Volume 3,” by Peter Ross and William Smith Pelletreau, published in 1905:

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Busts of Eppig and his wife on the family mausoleum.

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Last year, a descendant of the Eppig family opened a craft brewery in San Diego, which they named Eppig Brewing, and included this infographic in their website:

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Filed Under: Birthdays, Breweries, Just For Fun Tagged With: Brooklyn, Germany, History, New York

Historic Beer Birthday: Greg Noonan

March 4, 2026 By Jay Brooks

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Today is the birthday of Greg Noonan (March 4, 1951-October 11, 2009) who founded the Vermont Pub & Brewery, one of the earliest microbreweries on the East Coast. Noonan was a pioneer and a big part of the early days, and had a wide influence on the growing brewing industry, winning awards and writing books. Unfortunately, in 2009, he discovered he had cancer, and passed away shortly thereafter.

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Here’s Greg’s obituary from Legacy.com.

Gregory John Noonan, 58, died at his home in Burlington on Sunday, Oct. 11, 2009, after a brief battle with cancer. Greg, the son of the late Edward J. Noonan Jr. and the late Dolores Donlin Noonan, was born in Springfield, Mass. on March 4, 1951. He graduated from Cathedral High School in Springfield and St. Anselm College in Manchester, N.H. and resided in Burlington since 1988. He leaves his brother Christopher Noonan, Acworth, N.H.; his sister and brother-in-law Martha and John Murtaugh, Manchester, Conn.; his sister and brother-in-law Regina and Joseph Hitchery, Niantic, Conn.; and his brother and sisterin-law Jerome and Maura Noonan, Longmeadow, Mass. He also leaves two stepchildren, and several nieces, nephews. Greg was the proprietor and co-founder of the Vermont Pub & Brewery in Burlington, the author of several books on brewing and a scholar of Irish antiquities. He was also well known in the U.S. brewing community as a judge and a winner of many brewing awards over the past twenty years.

And this was RealBeer.com wrote at the time.

Noonan opened Vermont’s first brewpub in 1988 and two others after that but his influence was national. His 1986 book Brewing Lager Beer: The Most Comprehensive Book for Home- and Microbreweries became something of a guidebook for those opening small breweries in the 1980s and ’90s. He Later wrote Scotch Ale in 1990 and Seven Barrel Brewery Brewers’ Handbook: A Pragmatic Guide to Home Brewing in 1996, then updated Brewing Lager Beer in 2003.

Like many who would soon be commercial brewers Noonan started out making beer as a hobby at home. He was working as a manufacturing manager for paper and wood products companies in Massachusetts when news of microbreweries opening on the West Coast inspired him to go pro.

“I specifically sited my brewery in Burlington because it’s where I wanted to live. I admired the politics in Vermont,” he said. He spent three years lobbying the Vermont legislature to legalize brewpubs.

“That first year, it was a real sell,” he said 10 years after opening in the pub. “There was no built-in awareness of what a brewpub was. (Consumers) would look at you and think ‘You are a brewery, you must make Budweiser.’ There was no style awareness.”

His local impact was obvious. For instance, John Kimmich, who later started the award winning The Alchemist brewpub in nearby Waterbury, sought out Noonan to learn the trade. Kimmich waited tables and eventually became head brewer at Vermont Pub & Brewery.

“Greg is a major reason that The Alchemist is a success,” Kimmich says. “He’s been a wonderful mentor. He’s got the blending of the chemistry knowledge with the esoteric side of things.”

Like many other brewers, commercial and amateur, Kimmich said he still has a dog-eared copy of Brewing Lager Beer in his brewery. His book was the start of Brewers Publications, the publishing wing of the Brewers Association.

Greg Noonan and Steve Polewacyk
Greg with his business partner, who owns the Vermont Pub & Brewery today, taken in 2009, from the brewery’s 25th anniversary, as detailed by Seven Days in A 25th Anniversary for Vermont Pub & Brewery .

There’s also more information on Greg at Tap Dancing, Brewers Publication and also the Vermont Brewers Association has a tribute to him.

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At the Vermont Pub & Brewery‘s website, they tell the history of the brewery.

Greg Noonan’s 1986 book, Brewing Lager Beer, helped break open the microbrewing industry in the United States, and in 1988, Noonan opened Vermont Pub & Brewery in Burlington.

Among beer connoisseurs, Burlington’s Greg Noonan is legendary. His books on brewing are considered mandatory reading for home- and microbrewers. Known for crafting unique, delicious beers, he also provided expert consultation on startup and design of pubs and breweries. Noonan founded Vermont Pub & Brewery, creating a region-wide landmark and helping stimulate the economic growth and expansion of Burlington’s downtown.

It’s hard to remember when “brewpub” was not part of the American lexicon, but only two decades ago, most Americans had not tasted beer made in small, independent brewery-taverns. Craft brewing today is a $3.8-billion-a-year industry, with more than 1,300 microbreweries and brewpubs operating in the United States, according to the Brewers Association. This industry boom is a happy surprise to Noonan, although his efforts were very influential in its occurrence. In 1986, Noonan published, Brewing Lager Beer: The Most Comprehensive Book for Home- and Microbreweries, which quickly became a classic reference for craft brewers nationwide.

“You’re not going to find a successful brewer in the country that doesn’t have a dog-eared copy of this book,” says John Kimmich,Noonan’s protégé and co-owner of The Alchemist Pub & Brewery in Waterbury. “It is the definitive book on brewing lager beer.” Noonan was brewing beer as a hobby while working as a manufacturing manager for paper and wood products companies in Massachusetts. Microbreweries were just becoming trendy on the West Coast, and he decided to pursue the commercial possibilities for his craft. He had managed restaurants in New Hampshire and Boston and wanted his own restaurant to feature his brew. He used the results of his research for Brewing Lager Beerto launch his brewpub in Burlington. “I specifically sited my brewery in Burlington because it’s where I wanted to live. I admired the politics in Vermont,” says Noonan. “I had $175,000, which is a shoestring budget in the brewing industry; brewing equipment is very expensive.” He applied to several banks for additional funds, but lenders were skeptical. “The banks all said, ‘What is a brewpub?’ But I plunged on anyway with the money I had.” As he prepared to open, Noonan received a visit from Polewacyk, a longtime friend from his St. Anselm College days in New Hampshire. Polewacyk worked as a database consultant in the New York City metropolitan area. “I came to help him open and gave him a couple weeks of my time, doing whatever needed to be done — bartending, construction, cleaning, setting up a computer system, writing checks, shoveling,” Polewacyk says. A few weeks turned into months, and then a career. “When I came up those first two weeks, I realized how chaotic it was. I computerized the operation and said I would stay for three months.” Three months became six, and Polewacyk earned just enough from bartending to cover his expenses. The following June, he decided to stay. “I remember the exact moment,” he says. “I was walking up Church Street. It was a beautiful day, and I was waving hi and talking with people I had met through working here. I knew a whole bunch of people. I said, ‘This is what it’s supposed to be about! Why would I want to go back to the rat race?’”

Polewacyk continued as the operations manager, overseeing auditing and accounting, earning his partnership through sweat equity. “He makes sure things happen the way they should,” says Noonan. “I tend to be more the idea person behind the scenes.” Vermont Pub & Brewery opened in November 1988 with just enough money to cover payroll. “It was an inauspicious beginning,” Noonan says. “We eked our way through the winter of ’88 to ’89, barely by our teeth, with no cash reserves.” It was not an efficient way to open, he admits, but he needed the cash flow. “We ran it mom-and-pop for the first five years or so, which means we were here all the time. We put in 80-plus-hour weeks,” says Noonan. “Sometimes we would sleep in the booths, then get up at 6 a.m. and start mopping the floors,” Polewacyk adds. Together, they built the business, and by 1990, they had enough cash flow to pay themselves salaries. “Sales have slowly improved every year,” says Polewacyk. Gradually, Vermont Pub & Brewery became a destination that helped expand Burlington’s downtown beyond Church Street and draw people toward the waterfront. “They moved into that space when Church Street was the only place to be, and people did not gravitate beyond it, ” says Ann Heath, property manager for Investors Corporation of Vermont, the pub’s landlord. “We had never heard of a microbrewery. It was different and innovative. They enticed people with the product. It expanded the scope and viability of the city,” she says. Lagers, wheat beers, Irish and Scotch ales, pale and bitter ales and seasonal beers are created in a 14-barrel, whole-grain brewery in the pub cellar using recipes developed by Noonan. The brewery also makes seltzer and root beer. All brews are unfiltered and contain no preservatives.

Vermont Pub & Brewery won its first gold medal in 1991 at the Great American Beer Festival, and it has received many awards since then. At the Great International Beer Competition in November 2006, on the eve of the pub’s 18th anniversary, Vermont Pub and Brewery Burly Irish Ale received a Gold Medal; Forbidden Fruit Framboise brought home silver; and Handsome Mick’s Smoked Stout won bronze. All three medal winners are regularly on tap at the pub. The food menu, which has changed little since the pub’s early days, includes home-style meatloaf, chili, gravy fries, grilled sandwiches, chocolate brownies and the classic bangers and mash, with sausages custom-made by a New Hampshire smokehouse. Shepherd’s pie is a top seller, Noonan says. “We wanted a populist menu,” says Noonan. “Every brewpub back then was doing new American cuisine. We wanted to prepare good, basic food at reasonable prices.”

“There’s plenty of fancy places to go to, but people like good home cooking at good value,” says kitchen manager Mike Trepanier, an eight-year employee. The restaurant strives to offer local foods while keeping prices low. Locally raised beef, baked goods, seasonal local produce and Vermont coffee grace the menu. It also features an array of Vermont cheeses, wines and cider. “We are the busiest restaurant in Burlington, without a doubt,” says Noonan. The restaurant seats 175, and Noonan estimates 350 to 400 people come through daily. “In summertime, we are full every single night,” he says. Even winter sales continue to climb, says Polewacyk, noting a 15 percent increase during January and February 2006. Noonan attributes the continued growth to a focus on happy staff. Employees receive bonuses based on several factors, including time and effort. “We give them incentives and try to treat them as the important people they are,” says Noonan. “They are happy and they pass that on to our customers.” The owners endeavor to be good corporate citizens by sponsoring community events and being environmentally responsible. In 2002, Vermont Pub & Brewery was honored by Chittenden Solid Waste District for recycling and waste reduction.

Noonan continues to build his own reputation among craft brewers. He is a well-known speaker at brewers’ conferences and author of numerous trade journal articles and books. He published Scotch Ale in 1990 and Seven Barrel Brewery Brewers’ Handbook: A Pragmatic Guide to Home Brewing in 1996. In 2003 he released The New Brewing Lager Beer. Taking his intimate knowledge of brewing and brewpub start-ups, Noonan opened pubs in multiple locations. In 1994 he launched Seven Barrel Brewery in West Lebanon, N.H., followed by the 1997 opening of Amherst Brewing Company in Amherst, Mass. Then he stepped away from those locations, although he still owns the one in Amherst. “I liked the excitement and challenge of opening; however I decided I was working myself out of the hands-on work and into a job I didn’t really want,” Noonan says. “Both are doing quite well without me.” John Kimmich sought out Noonan to learn the trade. Kimmich waited tables and eventually became head brewer at Vermont Pub & Brewery before leaving to open The Alchemist.

“Greg is a major reason that The Alchemist is a success,” Kimmich says. “He’s been a wonderful mentor. He’s got the blending of the chemistry knowledge with the esoteric side of things.”
Now that they don’t have to sleep in the booths and work 80-hour weeks, Noonan and Polewacyk can concentrate on outside interests. Noonan is researching another book on a completely different topic: Irish history. He stills enjoys brewing, and says his favorite beer is “the one in my hand.” Polewacyk spends free time with his pre-teen son, a budding musician.

The partners enjoy planning special events at the pub, highlighting Vermont products along with their beer. In January they hosted a Vermont cheese and beer tasting in partnership with Montserrat Almena of the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese. They host an annual Scottish night, featuring a selection of single malt Scotch whiskies. “We’re focused on doing what we do and trying to do it better,” says Noonan. “I’m very proud of Vermont Pub & Brewery and the care the people who work here have for our customers. The customers are the important part.”

“Of all the lines of work you can be in, this one is very rewarding because it’s geared toward helping other people have a good time,” agrees Polewacyk. “There are no tricks, no hidden costs. Our job is to make sure people have a good time when they come in here, and that’s it.”

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A fun quote by Noonan, though the full quote is:

“When the homebrewers stop entering the profession, and the backyard breweries are squeezed out, then it will become stagnant. You gotta keep getting the guys who say, ‘Cool, I can sell the beer I make. I can do it.’ ”

Filed Under: Birthdays, Just For Fun Tagged With: History, Vermont

Historic Beer Birthday: Jacob Ruppert Sr.

March 4, 2026 By Jay Brooks

Today is the birthday of Jacob Ruppert, Sr. (March 4, 1842-May 25, 1915). Although his son Jacob Ruppert, Jr. was more well-known, in politics and in baseball, his father made that possible when he founded the Jacob Ruppert Brewing Company in 1867.

Jacob Ruppert Sr. 1842-1915

Here’s a biography from Find a Grave:

Founder of the Jacob Ruppert Brewing Company. Jacob Ruppert, Sr. was one of the first and most noted brewers in the US. He was born in NYC and was a son of Franz and Wilhelmina Zindel-Ruppert of Bavaria. Under he expert guidance of his father, Jacob learned the brewing trade thoroughly. At ten he began working for his father’s Turtle Bay Brewery in Midtown Manhattan which was then only two years old. Work was hard for him and his father, as machinery was scarce during the Civil War. In 1867 he opened the Jacob Ruppert Brewing Co. on Manhattan’s then-forested Upper East Side. With a 50 foot square brick building, he opened what was to be the first of many breweries. The Jacob Ruppert Brewery steadily became one of the largest and best-equipped breweries in the world. He eventually broadened his entrepreneurial interests to include real estate which became the biggest money maker for the Rupperts helping them to survive (along with Jacob Jr’s interest in baseball) the coming war, Prohibition and Great Depression. Jacob Jr. eventually took over the brewing business and brought it and the Ruppert name to greater fame and glory. Jacob Ruppert, Sr. was a forceful, single-purposed man with a great capacity for work. His charities were numerous but unostentatious.He married Anna Gillig, daughter of brewer George Gillig, and had six children: Cornelia, Jacob, Frank, Anna, George and Amanda, all interred with their father in our family’s mausoleum. Jacob died of cirrhosis at the age of 74, an illness brought on by the years of testing the very brew he sold.

The Jacob Ruppert Brewery around 1932.

Filed Under: Birthdays, Just For Fun Tagged With: History, New York

Historic Beer Birthday: George Klotter

March 4, 2026 By Jay Brooks

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Today is the birthday of George Klotter (March 4, 1805-July 29, 1882). He was born in Baden, Germany, but moved to Cincinnati, Ohio and established the Hamilton Brewery with partner Johann G. Sohn in Cincinnati, Ohio in 1846. Klotter left that brewery, while Sohn continued alone, and Klotter started another brewery, the George Klotter Brewery in 1866 The following year George Jr., and his brother Louis, joined the brewery, and it was renamed the George Klotter and Sons Brewery, which it remained until 1888. Unfortunately, there’s very little information I could find about Klotter or his brewery.

Here’s a short biography from Find-a-Grave:

Clyffside Brewing Company (242 McMicken) is a defunct brewery in Cincinnati, located on the site of Hamilton Brewery, founded in 1845 by Johann Sohn and George Klotter as the Hamilton Brewery. By 1853, the company became known as the Klotter, Sohn and Company. In 1866, Sohn bought out Klotter, and Klotter went on to establish his own brewery on Klotter Street.

And this is his obituary, also from Find-a-Grave:

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It 1888, it was renamed the Bellevue Brewery until finally closing in 1919.

Filed Under: Birthdays, Breweries, Just For Fun Tagged With: History, Ohio

Beer Birthday: Lucy Corne-Duthie

March 4, 2026 By Jay Brooks

Today is the 47th birthday of Lucy Corne, a.k.a. Lucy Corne-Duthie, who’s a beer writer in South Africa, although she was originally born in Great Britain. She first began writing travel books, before moving on to beer in her adopted home of South Africa, writing African Brew: Exploring the Craft of South African Beer and Beer Safari: A journey through the craft breweries of South Africa. She also used to go by the moniker Brewmistress. I first met Lucy in Nashville during World Beer Cup judging when she attended one our beer writers guild seminars. We also worked together on Flagship February, and last year I was happy to join her in South Africa to judge the African Beer Cup, a continent-wide competitions she co-founded and helps to run. But I spent even more time with her in Germany and Belgium for the Brussels Beer Challenge and a press trip directly afterwards through Flanders. She’s a great ambassador for craft beer, not only in South Africa but the world. Join me in wishing Lucy a very happy birthday.

Lucy and me at Banana Jam.
Lucy with Emily Sauter (whose birthday is also today) and me in Belgium last year.
Lucy, with Pete Slosberg, Greg Casey, and me at the judge’s after-party at the Afro-Caribbean Brewery.
On our to way to Eupen, we stopped for a quick look-see in Maastricht with Marek Kaminski, Em Sauter, me, Lucy and Jan Lichota
At the very end of our press trip through Flanders. From left: Edu Villegas, me, Lucy, Stijn Van Houdt, Jaime Ojeda Selamé, Stephen Beaumont, and Andy Crouch.

Filed Under: Birthdays, Just For Fun Tagged With: Great Britain, South Africa, UK

Beer Birthday: Tonya Cornett

March 4, 2026 By Jay Brooks


Today is Tonya Cornett’s 57th birthday. Tonya was the brewmaster of Bend Brewing in Oregon, for a number of years, but several years back moved to another Bend brewery — 10 Barrel Brewing — to become their R&D brewer. After being sold, her part of the brewery was unceremoniously shown the door, and she and her team regroup and opened their own place in Bend, UPP Liquids Pub, and Fermentations (of Immersion Brewing). And the best part, the new brewery just a few months after opening was named the Best Brewery of the Year (in the 251-500 barrel class). She was also featured prominently in the film, The Love of Beer, and more recently Beers of Joy. Tonya’s a great brewer and, of course, being born 1 day and ten years after me makes her a terrific human being, too. Join me in wishing Tonya a very happy birthday.

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Tonya and me during a visit to Bend quite a few summers ago.
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Tonya at GABF in 2008.
Tonya Cornett, from Bend Brewing, with Larry Horwitz from Iron Hill
Tonya with Larry Horwitz from Iron Hill at the 2009 GABF.
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With Tomme Arthur of Port Brewing/The Lost Abbey at Falling Rock in Denver. (Special thanks to Sage from the Lost Abbey for photos 2 and 4.)
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Elva Ellen Kowald, Tonya and Teri Fahrendorf at the Craft Brewers Conference in Chicago.
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Tonya and Megan Flynn, former publisher of Beer West, then-Beer Northwest, at GABF in 2010.
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Meeting for a quick beer in Bend a few years back.

Filed Under: Birthdays, Just For Fun Tagged With: Oregon

Beer Birthday: Emily Sauter

March 4, 2026 By Jay Brooks

Today is the 43rd birthday of the extraordinary Emily Sauter, who used to work at Two Roads Brewing as their Social Media and Communications Manager, where on Two Roads’ website she reveals an intense love of soup but an equally powerful dislike of broccoli. I wonder how broccoli soup fits in with that? She now works part-time at the Fox Farm Brewery, but at night dons the cape and cowl to draw Pints and Panels, her blog of beer reviews, done in a comic strip style, putting to good use her education from Vermont’s Center for Cartoon Studies. And she’s written and a few books, Beer is For Everyone!: Of Drinking Age, Hooray for Craft Beer!, and Pairing Beer with Everything. Emily is one of my favorite people to hang out with at beer events, a kindred spirit. Join me in wishing Emily a very happy birthday.

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Stan Hieronymus and Emily at GABF a few years ago.
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At the Beer Bloggers Conference in San Diego, opening a bottle of Crazy Pucker.
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Sam Calagione, Emily and me at Belmont Station in Portland during CBC a few years ago.
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In 2018 at Russian River for the release of Pliny the Younger.
Em with her husband Matt in Connecticut when I visited them last summer.
Lucy Corne-Duthie (whose birthday is also today), Em, and me in Belgium last year.

Filed Under: Birthdays, Just For Fun Tagged With: Cartoons, Connecticut

Historic Beer Birthday: Geörg Ziegelmaier

March 3, 2026 By Jay Brooks

Today is the birthday of Geörg Ziegelmaier (March 3, 1852-December 27, 1908). He was born in Württemberg, Germany, but emigrated to the U.S. on July 2, 1854. He was originally trained as a baker and a miller, but became a brewer and founded the George Ziegelmaier Brewery in 1966, which was located in Boscobel, Wisconsin. He ran the brewery for nearly twenty years before selling it to William Bruer. It then went through a series of owners before becoming the Boscobel Brewing Co. in 1920, before closing for good in 1942.

Here’s his biography from Tavern Trove:

He became a farmer in New Hartford, Connecticut, then opened a milling business after the first harvest. In 1856 he established a farm in Crawford County, Wisconsin, but moved away after only one season. History next finds Ziegelmaier forty miles to the west, in McGregor, Iowa, a port city on the Mississippi River.  He stayed long enough there to get married, to Mary Koss, and have two children.

In 1857 he moved his family back to Wisconsin to the town of Boscobel, where he opened a brewery and bakery shop. The brewery burned soon after, and he returned once again to McGregor. He came back to Boscobel in 1866 where he purchased the old brewery property and rebuilt it.  He ran the brewhouse until 1884, when he sold it to William Bruer.

By 1890 Ziegelmaier had relocated to Milwaukee. The next decade saw him follow several of his children, now numbering an even dozen, to Washington state. Geörg died there on December 27th, 1908. He was 76 years old.

This is from another history of Boscobel beer that discusses the early history of the brewery.

This short biography is from “The History of Grant County, Wisconsin,” by Willshire Butterfield, and published in 1881.

Filed Under: Birthdays, Breweries, Just For Fun Tagged With: Germany, Wisconsin

Beer Birthday: Jeff Cioletti

March 3, 2026 By Jay Brooks

Today is the 54th birthday of Jeff Cioletti, president of Drinkable Media and Editor-at-Large for Beverage World magazine. He’s been covering the business of beer for quite a long while. I run into Jeff at numerous industry events, and we’ve taken a press trip to Belgium. Join me in wishing Jeff a very happy birthday.

Three J’s at CBC in San Diego: Jeff, John Holl and me. (Photo by Win Bassett.)
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Jeff (on the left just above Lew Bryson) at our table inside the barrel room at Samuel Adams in Boston during an anniversary dinner there last year, when we opened every vintage of Utopias, plus Triple Bock and Millennium Ale.
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Ace reporter: “we just want the facts, ma’am, just the facts.”
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Jeff, in the center with a camera around his neck, during a visit to Brouwerij Huyghe during a press trip to Belgium in 2013.
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A night on bald mountain, or at least a table.

Filed Under: Birthdays, Just For Fun Tagged With: New Jersey, Virginia

Historic Beer Birthday: Henry Gund

March 2, 2026 By Jay Brooks

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Today is the birthday of Henry Gund (March 2, 1859-July 2, 1945). He was the son of John Gund, who co-founded what would become the The G. Heileman Brewing Company with Gottlieb Heileman. They formed a partnership in November 1858 to operate the City Brewery in La Crosse, but “after nearly fifteen years in business together, Heileman and Gund dissolved their partnership in 1872.” After leaving City Brewing, Gund immediately “established a new brewery on the southern edge of La Crosse that he named the Empire Brewery, and which was incorporated in 1880 as the John Gund Brewing Company.” Gund employed all three of his sons in his new venture, and eventually Henry Gund became president of the brewery after his father’s death.

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There’s not much biographical information on Henry, and I couldn’t find a photo of him, either. But there was a short write-up in the Biographical History of La Crosse, Trempealeau and Buffalo Counties, Wisconsin, published in 1892, when Henry was still alive, and so was his father. This biography starts with John Gund, and then has limited information about each son.

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Immigrant Entrepreneurship, under German-American Business Biographies, has a lengthy tale of both John Gund and Gottlieb Heileman

In May 1910, John Gund passed away a few months shy of his eightieth birthday. Fifty-one-year-old Henry Gund assumed control of the firm, which had expanded significantly to become the largest brewery in the Old Northwest outside Milwaukee. It employed 450 workers and owned numerous saloons throughout the region that carried Gund beer exclusively. Despite the firm’s success, the second decade of the twentieth century would be a trying time for Gund Brewing. The First World War fueled the prohibitionist movement in the United States and denunciations of German-American brewers became commonplace. In November 1918, shortly after the armistice ending the war had been signed, Congress passed the curiously misnamed Wartime Prohibition Act banning the production of intoxicating beverages starting in May 1919 and the sale of such beverages starting on July 1. Legal wrangling in the federal courts regarding the definition of “intoxicating beverages” occupied much of the spring of 1919. Many brewers including Gund held that beer with an alcohol content lower than 2.75 percent was non-intoxicating and resumed low-alcohol beer production. Later in the fall, Congress ratified the Volstead Act enacting national Prohibition and set January 16, 1920, as the start date.

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The Gund Brewery in 1902.

Despite the enactment of national Prohibition in early 1920, Gund and many other breweries continued producing 2.75 percent beer as various lawsuits made their way through the federal courts challenging the legality of the law and the meaning of various provisions. While the officers of the Gund Brewery awaited the outcome of the national legal battles, they faced a more immediate crisis. Local 81 of the International Brotherhood of Brewery Workers went on strike against local La Crosse breweries to ban open shops. Henry Gund refused to negotiate with the strikers and instead hired replacement workers to fill the vacant positions. The situation remained unresolved when the United States Supreme Court upheld the Volstead Act in the summer of 1920 and reinforced the complete ban on sales of alcoholic beverages. The ongoing labor unrest combined with the ban on beer production eventually led Henry Gund and the other corporate officers of the company to shutter the brewery. The corporation was dissolved in 1938 and the Peerless trademark was sold to the Michel brothers who resumed production of the brand. The Heileman Brewery later purchased Gund’s brew house.

John-Gund-Brewing-Co-Workers

John Gund’s vision of his brewery evolving into a major shipping brewery did not come to pass, and La Crosse did not emerge as a major rival to Milwaukee, St. Louis, or Cincinnati. Nevertheless, Gund had a major economic impact on the community and he influenced the entrepreneurial path of his sons. All three pursued careers in brewing: George in Washington and Ohio, John Jr. in Illinois and Kentucky, and Henry in Wisconsin. They also diversified their business activities into other fields. George entered the financial and mining sectors and earned a fortune through banking and real estate. John Jr. operated a malting facility in Chicago, the Lexington Brewery in Lexington, Kentucky, eventually became head of the Swiss Oil Company and the president of the First National Bank of Lexington. Henry stayed in La Crosse and became a director and later president of the National Bank of La Crosse (later the First National Bank La Crosse) and the president of the Pioneer Real Estate Company, a holding company for the defunct Gund Brewery’s real estate.

gund-brewery

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