Brookston Beer Bulletin

Jay R. Brooks on Beer

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No Fish: The Dogfish Head Beer Dinner

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The latest beer dinner from beer chef Bruce Paton took place Friday evening at the Cathedral Hill Hotel in San Francisco. The delicious four-course dinner was paired with the beers of Dogfish Head Brewing from Milton, Delaware. Owner Sam Calagione was at the dinner to talk about his beers. Another great night with beer and food.

Sam Calagione tells the assembled crowd or over 80 people about his philosophy of brewing and about each of the five beers poured Friday night. There was no fish on the menu, however, and instead we enjoyed poached foie gras with caviar, duck parsnip nodle pho with charred ginger broth, and angus short ribs with lobster medallions.

Table-mates Vinnie and Natalie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing.

And Justin and Daniella from the Brewing Network.

The dessert was a delicious Ginger Scented Banana Custard with Citrus Caramel Sauce paired with Dogfish Head’s newest historical beer, Chateau Jiahu, a beer based on a 9,000 beverage discovered in pottery jars found in the Neolithic villiage of Jiahu in Northern China. It was determined to be a mixed fermented beverage of rice, honey and fruit.

Brewers and beer people at the Dogfish Head dinner.

Sam Calagione and beer chef Bruce Paton, our hosts for the evening.

The next beer dinner should be sometime in January. Watch for more details here or on Bruce Paton’s website, the Beer Chef.

Craft Beer at Salone del Gusto

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If you’re not familiar with the Slow Food organization or its American counterpart, Slow Food USA, you should be. The idea started in Italy but has spread around the world. Essentially, they celebrate food in its more traditional guise, using natural and local ingredients, taking time to both prepare and enjoy the meal, paired with the finest beverages, whether it’s beer, wine or something else that compliments the meal perfectly. Their three guiding principles are good, clean and fair.

It’s also a perfect fit for the craft beer industry and the Brewers Association has been sending a team of representatives armed with some of our best beers to the Salone del Gusto in Torino (a.k.a. Turin), Italy for the last four times the event has been held, which is every two years. This year’s event was the sixth biennial festival and celebrates all manner of great food and drink from around the world. The five-day event includes opportunities to taste hundreds of flavors, taste workshops, full dinner experiences, lectures, education along with much more.

In addition, another event was taking place the same week nearby, called Terra Madre, that is a world meetup of people and organizations that produce good, clean and fair food with an emphasis on sustainable farming and food. The city of Santa Rosa selected Vinne and Natalie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing to be their representatives at Terra Madre. The whole experience sounds fantastic and hopefully I’ll be able to attend one of these years. The pictures below are courtesy of Shaun O’Sullivan from 21st Amendment Brewery. Thanks Shaun.

The Brewers Association booth at Salone del Gusto in Torino, Italy

Eric Wallace from Left Hand Brewing works the booth. It was very popular with the Italians, Expats, students and visitors from the U.S. You could get a taster of three beers for 3 Euros. Half the proceeds from the booth were donated to the Slow Food Movement. You could also purchase beer which was very popular with the Americans living abroad.

Shaun O’Sullivan from 21st Amendment in San Francisco, California poses with Charlie Papazian and a fuzzy Nancy Johnson of the Brewers Association.

Lorenzo Dabove, the “Michael Jackson” of Italy, along with Cantillon owners Claude and Jean-Pierre Van Roy.

Lost Abbey Dinner Found

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Last night at the Cathedral Hill Hotel, beer chef Bruce Paton put on yet another delicious “Dinner with the Brewmaster,” this one with Tomme Arthur and the beers of Port Brewing and The Lost Abbey.

Tomme addresses the packed house, a record-breaking sell-out crowd.

Our first course, a Duck Pozole Terrine with Citrus Herb Salad paired with Lost Abbey Red Barn Ale, which is something of a cross between a Saison and a Bière de Garde. I’ve heard Tomme describe it as either and both, and, of course, the styles are quite close. Both are farmhouse styles, brewed slightly stronger, traditionally in March to last through the warm summer. But while Saisons tend to emphasize the hops and spices, Bière de Gardes are more focused on malt character. The Red Barn, on the hand, is a very malty beer that’s spiced with ginger, orange peel, black pepper and grains of paradise. And as Tomme will be the first to tell you, he’s not trying to imitate either style but rather was inspired by both to create this beer, which is an amazing marriage of both.

Dave Keene, from the Toronado, and Jeff Bagby, from Pizza Port’s Carlsbad brewery.

Our dessert was an unbelievably rich Flourless Chocolate Cake with Chile Ancho served with Angel’s Share Barrel Aged Barleywine, an indescribably good pairing. Bruce’s desserts are usually quite tasty, but this one may have been his best ever.

All the brewers in attendance at the dinner, with many of the usual suspects. One surprise, Alan Sprints (on the left), owner of Hair of the Dog in Portland, Oregon was in town for a wedding and joined us at the dinner.

Tomme and me after dinner, relaxing in the bar with Blind Pig IPA.

The other beers of the evening included Cuvee de Tomme served with the soup course, which was a roasted corn soup with gulf prawns and heirloom tomato salsa and a shaved cornucopia of avocado. And the main course was a Duet of Lamb paired with Lost Abbey’s Lost and Found Ale, a Trappist-style abbey ale brewed with a raisin puree.

The next beer dinner with the brewmaster will be November 10 and will feature Sam Calagione and the beers of Dogfish Head. Check out the Beer Chef for more details.

Anchor Party for Ambitious Brew

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Last night, Fritz Maytag hosted a private event at Anchor Brewery for the release of historian Maureen Ogle’s new book Ambitious Brew, The Story of American Beer.

It was a fun evening. It was nice seeing Maureen Ogle again (after meeting in Denver last month) and also meeting her husband, who flew out to spend a few days with her in San Francisco. She’s in the middle of a pretty intensive book promotional tour. At least with us for the evening she could relax a bit more. Anchor, as usual, were gracious hosts and had some delicious food and desserts, and of course their wonderful beers. And for a special treat, they were pouring their 2006 Christmas beer which won’t be released officially until November 6.

It was rumored that the long-reclusive Jack McAuliffe — who founded New Albion Brewing, the first modern microbrewery — would be in attendance but he backed out in the end. But in addition to Fritz Maytag, two other brewing legends were there, Michael Laybourn and Don Barkley. Laybourn was one of the founders of Mendocino Brewing Co. and Barkley was their first brewer. Mendocino Brewing hired him after they bought the brewing equipment from New Albion — where Barkley had worked — for the new venture in Hopland. It had been many years since I’d seen either of them. All in all, a great way to spend an evening.

Thanks Maureen.

Bill Owens, who founded Buffalo Bill’s in Hayward, catches up with Fritz Maytag in the Anchor tasting room.

Matt Salie, with Big Sky Brewing, Judy Ashworth, publican emeritus, and Michael Laybourn. In the background Natalie Cilurzo, from Russian River Brewing, talks with Don Barkley.

Matt Salie with Anchor brewer Mark Carpenter, who’s been with Anchor since 1971.

Our choice of libations for the evening.

Vinnie and Natalie Cilurzo, from Russian River Brewing, R.J. Trent, former brewer now with BevMo, Dave Suurballe, President of the San Andreas Malts, and Dave Keene, from the Toronado.

21st Amendment Beer School on the Bus

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21st Amendment Brewery’s monthly beer school this month was a day-long bus trip from San Francisco north to Cloverdale and back again, with several stops at area breweries in between.

Shaun O’Sullivan, 21st Amendment’s brewmaster, in front of the 21-A beer school bus.

Newlyweds Rodger and Claudia Davis (Rodger is head brewer at Drake’s and Claudia works at 2st Amendment.

Shaun O’Sullivan, small brewer of the year Rich Norgrove, and Rodger Davis at Bear Republic Brewery in Healdsburg.

Shaun O’Sullivan making faces, sandwiched between The Brewing Network‘s Justin Crossley and Daniela.

At Bear Republic’s new production facility in Cloverdale, the back part of the brewery houses several Bear Republic race cars, including this antique car.

Nico and Shaun in the wild outdoors of Cloverdale.

Shaun O’Sullivan and Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River at Russian River Brewery in Santa Rosa.

For more photos from the 21st Amendment Beer School bus trip, visit:

21st Amendment Beer School on the Bus, Pt. 1
21st Amendment Beer School on the Bus, Pt. 2

Photos from the 2006 GABF

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I’ve finally got all my photos up from this year’s Great American Beer Festival. As usual, there are a lot of them. With the exception of the awards ceremony photos, I put the posts with the photos backdated to the day that they were taken so to see them all you can either scroll backwards in time or use the links to each of the photo galleries below. Enjoy.

9.27 Burgundian Babble Belt Tasting
9.27 GABF: Wednesday Night at the Brewers Reception
9.27 GABF: Wednesday Night at Falling Rock
9.28 GABF: Thursday Night
9.29 GABF: Friday Night
9.30 GABF: Sam Adams Media Brunch
9.30 GABF: Awards Ceremony
9.30 GABF: Saturday Night
9.30 GABF: Saturday Night at Falling Rock

GABF: Saturday Night at Falling Rock

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Saturday was our last night to let loose, so naturally the only place to go was the Falling Rock for a last chance to see friends, hang out and drink some great beer.

Brendon Dobbel, of Thirsty Bear in San Francisco, California, and I wait patiently in line for another beer.

Nico Freccia, co-owner of 21st Amendment in San Francisco, California, and Mark Cabrera, with Firestone Walker Brewing in Paso Robles, California.

Dr. Bill hosted another of his magnificent private tastings downstairs at the Falling Rock.

While upstairs, a fantastic guitar player rocked the house.

And got Dave Buhler and his sister Sebbie out on the dance floor.

Me and Sebbie Buhler, who’s with Rogue Ales.

Out front at the end of the evening. From left: Josh Miner, Noah Regnery and Jeff Bagby, of Pizza Port – Carlsbad, Tomme Arthur, from The Lost Abbey, and Garrett Oliver, from Brooklyn Brewery.

My booth, with Tom Dalldorf, Celebrator publisher and Chris Black, co-owner of the Falling Rock across from me, with Stephen Beaumont out of sight to their left.

While next to me Michael Jackson and Carolyn Smagalski toasted with some rare beers Chris pulled out his cellar.

And Michael and I discussed films and books well into the night. Now I need to add the works of A.J. Liebling to my ever-growing reading list.

GABF: Wednesday Night at Falling Rock

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After the Brewers Reception, everybody adjourned, as usual, to the Falling Rock, unofficial HQ during festival week.

Falling Rock co-owner Chris Black jumped up on the bar to announce the evening’s festivities.

Chris showing off that he’s only having “one” beer all night.

Shaun O’Sullivan (21st Amendment), Judy Ashworth (Publican Emeritus) and Chris Black.

Jeremy Cowan (He’Brew) and Rich Norgrove (Bear Republic)

Tomme Arthur (Lost Abbey, Port Brewing), Eric Rose (Santa Barbara Brewing) and Vinnie Cilurzo (Russian River)

Self-portrait with Natalie Cilurzo and Judy Ashworth.

Melissa Myers samples Chris Black’s one beer.

Then passes it to me for a sip.

Me with Chris’ big glass (it has its own undertow).

Up against the wall with Stephen Beaumont and Judy Ashworth.

Pierre Celis was there tasting people on his new golden Grottenbier.

Of course, the Rolling Boil Blues Band rocked the house with Tom Dalldorf on guitar and John Harris from Full Sail on washboard.

The RB3 had them dancing on the tables.

GABF: Wednesday Night Brewer’s Reception

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Each year, the night before GABF, the Brewers Association holds a reception at Wynkoop for the brewers. It’s the first chance during the week for every one newly arrived in town to get together and say hello, drink a few beers and enjoy calm before the storm.

From left: Bob Pease (BA), Vinnie Cilurzo (Russian River), John Bryant and his wife Cindy (Odell’s), Banjo (Real Beer) and Tom McCormick (California Small Brewers Association).

Ralph Woodall (HopUnion) and the delightful Chris Crabb (OBF)

John Bryant (Odell’s) and Ray Daniels (BA)

Lucy Saunders (The Beer Cook) and Vinnie Cilurzo.